DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I have this bathroom which had a ventilation problem (now fixed). The walls and ceiling have skim coat plaster and the paint is peeling off like crazy exposing the plaster itself. It was the moisture issue that caused it. I'm a DIY guy and this is my first ceiling repair and want to do this just once!

Anyway, I am now scraping off the loose paint and my plan is the following:
* scrape off as much as possible
* level off the peeled patches with lightweight spackle
* sand the spackle smooth and give whole ceiling a light sanding
* wash down ceiling with TSP
* 1 coat of sealing primer
* two coats of finish acrylic paint

Does this sound like a good plan?

Also, two other questions …

What do you recommend as a good primer over plaster?
I've heard differing opinions on oils based vs. acrylic latex.
I have a bunch of BIN shellac primer in the basement and was considering that. Would that work well?

Any good recommendations for finish ceiling paint?
I am considering either SW Duration or the new (and expensive) Emerald Satin. If I can fix this problem it's worth the cost to me.


Anyway, I am obviously not a paint expert and welcome all recommendations.
Thanks,
Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,606 Posts
OK, I have this bathroom which had a ventilation problem (now fixed). The walls and ceiling have skim coat plaster and the paint is peeling off like crazy exposing the plaster itself. It was the moisture issue that caused it. I'm a DIY guy and this is my first ceiling repair and want to do this just once!

Anyway, I am now scraping off the loose paint and my plan is the following:
* scrape off as much as possible
* level off the peeled patches with lightweight spackle
* sand the spackle smooth and give whole ceiling a light sanding
* wash down ceiling with TSP
* 1 coat of sealing primer
* two coats of finish acrylic paint

Does this sound like a good plan?

Also, two other questions …

What do you recommend as a good primer over plaster?
I've heard differing opinions on oils based vs. acrylic latex.
I have a bunch of BIN shellac primer in the basement and was considering that. Would that work well?

Any good recommendations for finish ceiling paint?
I am considering either SW Duration or the new (and expensive) Emerald Satin. If I can fix this problem it's worth the cost to me.


Anyway, I am obviously not a paint expert and welcome all recommendations.
Thanks,
Rob
A couple things I would do different;
scrape off loose paint-yes
sand the edges of paint that is still adhered
apply peel stop primer as per instructions
Do not use light weight spackle this is for filling small nail holes. If it is deep enough to require fill use lightweight joint compound
I would not recommend TSP to wash the ceiling. TSP is not very good for that there are better products such as Dirtex.
Bin primer will work fine
OK reread your post as far as the TSP goes if you do use it (and I would still recommend against it) you need to rinse very well, then when you think you have rinsed enough do it again.
As far as ceiling paint I really like SW Emminence.
These are just my opinions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,967 Posts
Absolutely +1 on this part:
If it is deep enough to require fill use lightweight joint compound
IMO, except for the smallest of nail holes Spackle is a wasted product., not worth the time to use.

If the base layer of paint is a glossy the whole ceiling sanding is a must. You may want to do that before you do your patches as more of it may break off. On plaster a wallpaper shaver will remove more paint that you would think.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,982 Posts
At some point on this forum we are going to have to put a tutorial on here about the differences between SPACKLE and JOINT COMPOUND.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,606 Posts
I agree so many people think the term is interchangeable apparently not knowing it is 2 different products with 2 different uses. They think we're just being picky when we correct them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I've heard good things about Gardz, as a sealing primer. Would BIN shellac work as well?
I have a gallon of BIN in my basement left over from another project.

If Gardz is better, given my peeling paint situation, I'll go for that.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,982 Posts
I've heard good things about Gardz, as a sealing primer. Would BIN shellac work as well?
I have a gallon of BIN in my basement left over from another project.

If Gardz is better, given my peeling paint situation, I'll go for that.
Either is fine for this purpose. The BIN is going to smell to high heaven, but, if you have it on hand, by all means, use it. It sticks to anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just got back from my local SW store …
Picked up a gallon of Duration Extra White for the finish coat on the ceiling.
Also picked up some LW joint compound.

Now back to scraping …..
:thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
If the plaster got moist enough for long enough, the surface will wind up soft, and it may also be chalky. You can use 10:1 vinegar / water to harden it back up - spray it on from a spray bottle. I'd check and do that if needed before any cleaning - it may take more than one treatment. You shouldn't need to clean the plaster after that treatment unless there's heavy chalking still. BIN will penetrate the surface enough that minor chalking isn't a problem, Kilz Original is pickier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks for the tip on the chalky plaster. Hadn't thought about that.
How hard should the plaster be? …. rock hard or, have a little compliance to it?
Would a thumbnail leave a mark in it?

I'll go check it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Thumbnail test - press and slide your thumbnail along the surface. Hard plaster is harder than GP joint compound, soft plaster can be softer than chalk. If you've used ultra lightweight compound, that's about the softest you can go and not have an easily damaged surface. If it's soft, you just harden it up as much as you can - multiple applications are OK, you just don't want to get it sopping wet.

Chances are it's going to be fine even without vinegar, but it would be disappointing to have it peel again if some vinegar could have prevented it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Question Does the acid in the vinegar have any effect on the paint adhesion? I have never heard of this tip. Good to know.
It either improves it or has no effect. If it were newish plaster that was still basic, it would improve it by neutralizing it. There are also specialty acrylic based consolidators that soak in deep, but I haven't used them and they're special order.

Plaster restoration guys have some pretty good products now. I used to use ceiling buttons (plaster washers), but the next one I do I'll be using the plastic temporary washers, acrylic conditioner, and adhesive to get the plaster back tight to the lath. From there, it's just a pretty quick fill divots / hole and skim. Overall, I should be able to get a better finished job with a lot less time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,967 Posts
I agree so many people think the term is interchangeable apparently not knowing it is 2 different products with 2 different uses. They think we're just being picky when we correct them.

After being forced to clean up so many crappy Spackle messes over the years, I will continue to politely correct them. Really what we are doing is saving them from future misery. I never enjoyed hearing I was wrong but I almost always listened and learned.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ToolSeeker
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top