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Hello all, I am installing a switched outlet and two switched light fixtures on my patio. I am planning on using 14/3 to run from the two switches to the GFI outlet in which I will connect the ground and neutral wiring for the light fixtures. I've included a diagram and just want to make sure I am doing things correctly. My concerns are shared connections on the GFI outlet. I have attached a crude diagram. Thanks !
 

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Looks good. Feed the switches and take either black or red to the GFCI receptacle. Take remaining color to lights. At receptacle put both neutrals on the line side. Connect all grounds together with pigtail to box if it's metal. I would recommend using thhw wire instead of cable. Also PVC conduit is cheaper than non metallic flex and may be easier to install.
 

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Looks mostly good but 2 things.

First cable in conduit is always a mistake. Use THWN wire if you want to run it inside conduit. Keep in mind 14/3 UF is already 0.581" wide which means it won't physically fit inside 1/2" anything. For 1 cable inside conduit, the conduit ID must be 138% of the cable wide width, so that multiplies out to 0.802" wide. That'll just fit inside some 3/4" trade size conduits, but smurf tube is not one of them (being 0.76" ID). So you'll need to kick up to 1" smurf. And it'll be a miserable pull. Still sure you want cable inside conduit? LOL

You're better off just using 1/2" smurf and THWN wires (as many as you please).

Switching a GFCI is not a good thing. A lot of GFCIs will trip when you do that. Maybe not this one, but fair chance its replacement... and you'll be replacing it often since it's outside.

A lot of people think you need a GFCI receptacle at every place you need GFCI. Actually, every GFCI device is able to protect a downline load - so you can hang additional plain receps (or anything) off a GFCI and they are protected too. This is a good way to solve both GFCI problems - the switched thing and the outdoor thing. Place the real GFCI along the circuit somewhere indoors *before* the wires go outdoors. Then place the outdoors stuff on the LOAD terminals of the GFCI. Now you can use switches and a plain receptacle as you plan.

The plain receptacle that is protected by a GFCI needs a "GFCI Protected" sticker. This will be most relevant when passing inspection and when you sell your home.
 

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And the pictorial diagram might lead one to believe you intend to get a feed through type GFCI receptacle and use the downstream terminals for the neutral and ground to the load. I doubt you intend to do that since turning the light on would instantly trip the GFCI.
 

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The diagram isn't showing an equipment grounding connection on the switches. Shouldn't these be made?
There should be safety ground connections to switches. But they need to be pigtailed. They cannot connect on switches because you need to be able to remove the switch without severing the ground path to downline devices, which may not be on that circuit due to the retrofit rules.

We once did cable inside 3/4" PVC. Big mistake. Had to piece it together one section at a time. What was I thinking.
Did that once. Found out it's verboten. You must complete conduit before pulling any wire in. (Exception: if you're only using conduit as a damage shield e.g. up the wall in a garage).

Some guy managed to chicken-choke *two* 12/2 up a 3/4" EMT conduit. Just a short 5' section with one 90 degree sweep bend. The EMT is lying outside, I literally cannot get the 12/2 out of there.

Of course I work in stranded, so I'm a pulling wimp lol.

300.18 Raceway Installations.
(A) Complete Runs.
Raceways, other than busways or exposed raceways having hinged or removable covers, shall be installed complete between outlet, junction, or splicing points prior to the installation of conductors.

Exception: Short sections of raceways used to contain conductors or cable assemblies for protection from physi- cal damage shall not be required to be installed complete between outlet, junction, or splicing points.
 
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