DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

Part identification for Honeywell VR8204H1006

408 Views 12 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  yuri
I have a Honeywell VR8204H1006 Intermittent Pilot Gas Valve on a Utica Boiler that is not firing (no spark) while the circulation pump, vent damper is all working.

I narrowed it down to this little part shown in the photo that is connected to the electrical circuit of the gas valve and sits at the edge of the combustion chamber and I'm having trouble identifying it. There's a little button/relay in the middle of the two electrical connections and when I press it in (I can hear a little click), the boiler fires up within 5 seconds and all is good...for a couple hours...then I see that the boiler is no longer heating, even though the pump is still circulating water to my zones. And when I click the little button in, all is good again.

My assumption is that this part is failing and a simple replacement will do the trick. Can someone help me identify it and where I can buy one? Thanks - Matt
See less See more
1 - 5 of 13 Posts
It looks like a high temp cutout switch. Also known as a flame rollout switch.

If that is tripping you have a very unsafe condition.

The flames from your burners are rolling back out towards the gas valve and front of the burners and hitting it.

Could be the insides of the boiler ( flue passages ) are partly plugged with soot or rust or scale. Or you have a blockage in your chimney and the smoke cannot get out fast enough.

Or you have a negative pressure in your house caused by too much exhausting from a fireplace or exhaust fans etc.

Point is you should get the problem checked by a Pro and not keep resetting it.

You could also get CO, Carbon monoxide poisoning and spillage if it is not burning cleanly or fumes are spilling into your house.

It is also possible the burner is overfired but that is very rare.
See less See more
Colder temps actually help your chimney draw better. The greater the temp diff between inside and out the greater the draft in the chimney.

Your boiler runs longer in colder weather and maybe it gradually built up a higher than normal temp inside and tripped it.

Get them to check:

#1 the chimney for blockages, birds nests, collapsing liner

#2 the flue passages inside the boiler for rust, scale, soot

95% of the time those 2 points are the problem.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
You should get the boiler checked as it could be spilling CO, carbon Monoxide fumes.

They are odorless and you cannot smell or see them.

If it is spilling enough to trip that switch then I suspect you may be getting some CO.

Your basic HDepot CO detector won't pick up small amounts until the level gets higher and it is not a good idea to use one as a safety device.

You can buy low level detectors but they are specialty items and cost well over $100-150. Kidde makes them.

If you have a problem best nip it in the bud IMO.
It may be fine at the start of the season but during the Winter could have plugged up from poor combustion.

You should have the chimney thoroughly inspected also.

CO is nothing to fool around with. If you have a family then they are at risk also.

I have seen chimney liners gets pinholes from corrosion and then the holes get bigger and the draft gets affected. Or they can get plugged with birds nests etc.

Your spill switch got weaker from repeated tripping and started tripping at a lower temp is what happened.
Roll out switches should never trip unless there is a drastic problem.

With furnaces I will put my elec stick thermometer near it and then fire up the bunrer.

Incoming air over it is usually 70-80 F with a bit of radiant heat.

After 5 mins if the heat exchanger is cracked and once the fan is on you will see a huge climb in temp and if it starts heading to that 300 F area then yer cracked.

I use that a lot for popped heat exchanger rings on ICPs.
1 - 5 of 13 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.