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Discussion Starter #1
I have a Honeywell VR8204H1006 Intermittent Pilot Gas Valve on a Utica Boiler that is not firing (no spark) while the circulation pump, vent damper is all working.

I narrowed it down to this little part shown in the photo that is connected to the electrical circuit of the gas valve and sits at the edge of the combustion chamber and I'm having trouble identifying it. There's a little button/relay in the middle of the two electrical connections and when I press it in (I can hear a little click), the boiler fires up within 5 seconds and all is good...for a couple hours...then I see that the boiler is no longer heating, even though the pump is still circulating water to my zones. And when I click the little button in, all is good again.

My assumption is that this part is failing and a simple replacement will do the trick. Can someone help me identify it and where I can buy one? Thanks - Matt
 

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It looks like a high temp cutout switch. Also known as a flame rollout switch.

If that is tripping you have a very unsafe condition.

The flames from your burners are rolling back out towards the gas valve and front of the burners and hitting it.

Could be the insides of the boiler ( flue passages ) are partly plugged with soot or rust or scale. Or you have a blockage in your chimney and the smoke cannot get out fast enough.

Or you have a negative pressure in your house caused by too much exhausting from a fireplace or exhaust fans etc.

Point is you should get the problem checked by a Pro and not keep resetting it.

You could also get CO, Carbon monoxide poisoning and spillage if it is not burning cleanly or fumes are spilling into your house.

It is also possible the burner is overfired but that is very rare.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Yuri and roughneck, that's very helpful. We had outdoor temperatures -15 Fahrenheit and below the last two nights, so I wonder if it's impacting the exhaust getting out or a buildup/blockage that was enhanced by the coldest temps of the winter so far. Sounds like a need to call a pro and get it resolved.
 

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Colder temps actually help your chimney draw better. The greater the temp diff between inside and out the greater the draft in the chimney.

Your boiler runs longer in colder weather and maybe it gradually built up a higher than normal temp inside and tripped it.

Get them to check:

#1 the chimney for blockages, birds nests, collapsing liner

#2 the flue passages inside the boiler for rust, scale, soot

95% of the time those 2 points are the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Following up on this post in case others come across it. I ended up replacing the flame rollout switch and it resolved my issues. It was a $15 part and 10 minute DIY job and in my case, saved me a trip from a technician.

I agree with others that if the flame rollout switch was doing it's job, that this could be a more dangerous situation. But a quick $15 job can first be tried, just in case the switch itself was bad. In my case, it worked.
 

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You should get the boiler checked as it could be spilling CO, carbon Monoxide fumes.

They are odorless and you cannot smell or see them.

If it is spilling enough to trip that switch then I suspect you may be getting some CO.

Your basic HDepot CO detector won't pick up small amounts until the level gets higher and it is not a good idea to use one as a safety device.

You can buy low level detectors but they are specialty items and cost well over $100-150. Kidde makes them.

If you have a problem best nip it in the bud IMO.
 

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Something to keep in mind, the part that appears to be the problem may not be the problem at all. It could a result of the real problem.
Your spill switch may have had issues because of repeated trips. I would have the draft checked and boiler inspected just to be sure.
X2 on the above comment on CO detectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
yes, I should have mentioned that I had my annual inspection by professionals during this time and the CO levels were fine.
 

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It may be fine at the start of the season but during the Winter could have plugged up from poor combustion.

You should have the chimney thoroughly inspected also.

CO is nothing to fool around with. If you have a family then they are at risk also.

I have seen chimney liners gets pinholes from corrosion and then the holes get bigger and the draft gets affected. Or they can get plugged with birds nests etc.

Your spill switch got weaker from repeated tripping and started tripping at a lower temp is what happened.
 

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Your old roll out probably worn out due to that area getting to hot, but not hot enough to trip it. Now it finally weakened, and the new switch is just covering up the problem.
 

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Roll out switches should never trip unless there is a drastic problem.

With furnaces I will put my elec stick thermometer near it and then fire up the bunrer.

Incoming air over it is usually 70-80 F with a bit of radiant heat.

After 5 mins if the heat exchanger is cracked and once the fan is on you will see a huge climb in temp and if it starts heading to that 300 F area then yer cracked.

I use that a lot for popped heat exchanger rings on ICPs.
 
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