Painting varnished kitchen cabinets
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Joined
·
37,499 Posts
A whole lot of work but to get the paint to stay stuck there going to have to be degreased, stripped ( I would use a random orbital sander not a stripper)
primed with a bonding primer and two coats of finish paint.
May want to stop by your local real paint store and ask them what to use for a primer and paint. And no Home Depot and Lowes do not count.
primed with a bonding primer and two coats of finish paint.
May want to stop by your local real paint store and ask them what to use for a primer and paint. And no Home Depot and Lowes do not count.
I was afraid of thatjoecaption said:
. I somehow forgot to mention that the front of the doors have a veneer. Sand or strip?ALso, I'd really rather not remove the cabinet frames from the wall (or I may as well bite the bullet and replace them! The doors, of course, come off.). Possible?
Thanks again
.
Joined
·
212 Posts
That is the single best advise i have seen on these forums lol
Nonsense as usual.:furious: Joe is not a painter and is sometimes to quick to comment without thinking his responses.
You do not have to strip them so long as you remove any varnish that is chipping or flaking. You do have to degrease them and really clean them to remove any wax buildup that might be on them. You will need to fill in and out any surface imperfections.
Scruff the surfaces with fine grit sandpaper. Apply a quality bonding primer/underlay and then two coats of quality paint store finish.
If budget allows, think about upgrading the hardware.
Joined
·
37,499 Posts
There's some other options to make those cabinets look better.
You could buy all new doors, and drawer front's that look better then those flat panels.
There's hudreds of on line companys that do nothing but make the doors and fronts.
You could replace all that old hardware and add some nice trim to the faces of the doors to make them look like recessed panels.
Could do what's called picture framing on the face of the doors.
You could buy all new doors, and drawer front's that look better then those flat panels.
There's hudreds of on line companys that do nothing but make the doors and fronts.
You could replace all that old hardware and add some nice trim to the faces of the doors to make them look like recessed panels.
Could do what's called picture framing on the face of the doors.
Joined
·
212 Posts
Dude you said the same thing he did????
Certainly did not! Here is his quote. We did agree on the need for primer and finish.
"A whole lot of work but to get the paint to stay stuck there going to have to be degreased, stripped..."
They do not have to be stripped if they are going to be painted.:thumbup:
Joined
·
5,607 Posts
Just use a deglosser, scuff the surface, I would prime with BIN just in case of tannins and good quality paint (2 coats)
Joined
·
212 Posts
forgot this part..."( I would use a random orbital sander not a stripper)"
Lost you bubba.
He is still suggesting the cabinets need be stripped but using a random sander and not a chemical stripper? Maybe I read it wrong. The suggestion to strip completely by any method is irrelevant. You don't need to do it to paint. If you are trying to get to the wood so you can re-stain, the game changes.Thanks for all of the responses. No stripping or sanding gets my vote!
Any recommendations on the degreaser or any additional cleaning supplies/method (or a URL outlining proper procedure & materials)? The guys at BM should be able to help with paint and primer recommendations, but I wouldn't put my nose up at any suggestions offered here.
Oh, and if anyone is willing to just come do the job...:whistling2:
Any recommendations on the degreaser or any additional cleaning supplies/method (or a URL outlining proper procedure & materials)? The guys at BM should be able to help with paint and primer recommendations, but I wouldn't put my nose up at any suggestions offered here.
Oh, and if anyone is willing to just come do the job...:whistling2:
I did this very thing, two different ways. For the upper cabinet doors, I TSP'd them and sanded them down. Then used Zinnser primer and latex paint and added some picture framing. It's held up for 2.5 years now. On the bottoms, I went the deglosser route. TSP again, deglosser, prime, then paint. So far, those have held up for 9 months now.
Joined
·
8,307 Posts
how far south east of Maryland are you?
I am going to jump in here
You DO need to sand everything after cleaning.
Forget the deglosser
Clean with Dirtex
Lightly sand all surfaces with 120 grit paper
Apply a quality bonding primer( Cover Stain, Zinnser 123),Bin would be over kill
Apply 2 finish coats
Well, any farther and I'd be soaking wet! :boat:
I stand corrected. When I said no sanding, I was referring to sanding down to bare wood. Thanks for the heads up.
And thanks for the detail.
Just a friendly reminder to those who use TSP. Be sure to rinse well. Zinsser says do not use TSP prior to applying their products, and they do so because improper rinsing has been causing bonding issues with their coatings. Dirtex doesn't have phosphates so it doesn't need rinsing. The downside to Dirtex is that it doesn't etch, dull sheens, in prep for painting.
Joined
·
2,518 Posts
..and there are some pretty good no rinse tsp substitutes too.
Yes, but do they etch? I couldn't find that info on the quick search I did.
:yes:... also take doors off and number all the hardware.set up a table and paint flat . i like a good purdy brush at least 2 1/2, i like a 3 inch brush ,cover stain primer and let dry over night,very light sand between all coats of primer and paint . im a s/w guy and for this i like pro classic warter bourn acrillic .for a pro these cabnets are a peice of cake :huh:,for a diyer if you take your time you can make them look very good:wink:
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
