I am just about to paint newly fitted tongue and groove in my bathroom (round the bath). I have a farrow and ball water based egg-shell for the finish. What should I undercoat with to prepare the wood???
I'm assuming by the tongue and groove that the surface to be painted is horizontal. That's bad news around a bath due to standing water left on the paint. That problem is compounded if it is a walking surface. Neither application calls for a standard latex. The high humidity surroundings (due to warm water vapor rising and condensing on the walls and spilled water) call for something more resistant, such as an epoxy. Sherwin Williams sells a one-part epoxy (ask for Pro Industrial) that I have in my bathroom. It isn't cheap, but it will be there for a long time.
If the surface is for walking, then I'd recommend getting a walking surface epoxy. SW sells a waterborne floor paint, but it won't stand up to humidity. Take a look at Tile-Clad, a two-part epoxy. Once again, not cheap, but it will last.
Now, back to your original question, undercoating. Primer is not going to provide humidity and tread resistance - that is the topcoat's job. Primer is just going to promote adhesion and even color/gloss. SW has Wall & Wood Primer that should do the trick. Of course, check the label for proper primer if you get into epoxies or other non-latex formulas.
That's right. Latex water-based paints may dry in only a few hours, but they coalesce for around two weeks (the curing process). Until the paint is completely cured, it can be damaged by humidity.
Even if the paint is free, using improper topcoat is shooting yourself in the foot. You'll apply free paint and primer at $30 per gallon, and in a year or less it is peeling. You'll then get to spend hours scraping off both the topcoat and primer, pay $30 per gallon for paint and primer again. So, you've wasted the first primer purchase, the labor to apply and strip the first paint job, and the free paint that could have been used elsewhere in your house.
Case in point - doing the job right the first time with the right materials is cheaper, hands down. If you can wait to install the paneling, wait to use the bath, or prevent the paneling from getting wet, you should wait to apply paint until you can get something that's meant to be there.
B.I.N. is an alcohol based shellac primer that will work well in your bathroom. If you use B.I.N. and a good latex like Sherman Williams formulated specifically for a bathroom it will last for years. This is one place you do not want to go cheap. It will not last and the work involved in fixing it will be worth way more than what you spend on good paint.
Just a fun update, I live in an apartment and put SW 1 part epoxy on my bathroom wall - it's never going to give. I put SW Color to Go samples on the trim because they are cheap and the apartment is not mine :thumbup: It is now blistering due to humidity.
BTW, SW Color to Go is comparable to SW Super Paint Interior. That's a secret they will never tell you!
My sherwin williams workers told me that colors to go do not have the stuff in it that makes paint durable and that I need to paint over it with a proper top coat after I pick my colors. They said that color to go is just to choose the right color and then get a paint that color.
True, every SW worker is taught to recite that bull about the Color to Go Samples. But, think about this: they tell you that you can slap color-to-go samples on the wall to get the right color, and then paint right over the sample. Then, they tell you that the paint you are applying is only as good as the surface it is being painted on.
Ipso facto, color-to-go samples must be strong enough to hold a quality topcoat with a performance guarantee. Here's lookin' at you Duration Home.
I've painted with a CTG sample, and with other SW products. While I haven't had enough time to see durability, color and gloss retention results, I'd have to say that going on the wall for three months is comparable to Classic 99 or Super Paint.
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