[smilencme]

I am painting primed baseboard using a laytex enamel and I first used a roller and when I finished I had hotspots all up and down the board. I was then told to use a brush and i put second coat on with brush and still have hot spots................what did i do wrong??? HELP!!!!

 

[Gymschu]

Post a pic when you can. Very hard to diagnose a problem without a picture. And, more info is helpful such as what brand/type of paint you are using, what type (nap size) roller you are using, and even the quality of brush you may be painting with.

If I had to guess, I would say the paint is drying too fast for you and your brush/roller to keep up and you are getting lap marks or dead spots where you overlapped one section to the next. Today's paint formulas are quick drying and you must move at a steady, almost hurried pace to keep it from drying on you.

Also, cheaper paints tend to have fillers in them that can affect the sheen. Just a few things to think about.

 

[ChiTownPro]

What kind of spots? Dark spots? Raised spots? More info and as Gymschu requested, pics would be helpful.

 

[smilencme]

It is showing up shilly- dull. Used a smooth roller and it was hit and miss, then went over it with a brush... did not make dull part shine. Am not at shop so cannot show pic, we used Olympic latex enamel

 

[smilencme]

Stupid smart phone.. not silly, shine

 

[smilencme]

It did dry fast

 

[smilencme]

When it is stood up against wall you do not notice the shine/dull... .but have to paint a bunch more on Fri and need to know if it was the roller that left it that way

 

[Gymschu]

If you used a smooth roller like a FOAM roller, well, they don't hold much paint and they tend to "skid" as you roll and that would leave the type of marks you are describing. Added to that, Olympic paint is bottom of the barrel in terms of quality, at least in my experience. Ive used Olympic satin wall paint (white) and it took 3 coats to cover white so I stay as far away from that stuff as possible.

 

[chrisn]

If you used a smooth roller like a FOAM roller, well, they don't hold much paint and they tend to "skid" as you roll and that would leave the type of marks you are describing. Added to that, Olympic paint is bottom of the barrel in terms of quality, at least in my experience. Ive used Olympic satin wall paint (white) and it took 3 coats to cover white so I stay as far away from that stuff as possible.

Now old Joe has painted thousands of doors with a foam roller, no problem

Watch out, Mr Jeff is lurking:laughing:

 

[ToolSeeker]

Also this is why I prime pre-primed trim. No way to know where it was stored, how long it was stored, something was spilled on it. Mgr uses cheapest possible primer and it has just deteriorated from sitting too long.. Is it a PITA to do this, yes.Do these problems happen often, no. But has happened enough I consider it insurance to to go ahead and prime with 123.

 

[ChiTownPro]

WTH would you prime something that is primed? Why would you spend the extra money on it when you are going to do it any way. I have never primed primed trim. I have never had a single issue with it. Why go through all of that work for the slight and remote off chance that you might have a few spots that you might need to touch up.

Those spots wouldn't take more than a few minutes to fix versus the countless hours priming primed trim. Work smart, not hard.

A simple wipe down with some denatured alcohol should remove any contaminates that would spoil a finish. It dries super fast and is ready to paint almost right away. And even for a HO, buy a Graco cordless airless sprayer. Best $200 you will spend and you will find a thousand places to use it.

 

[1acre]

Why would you spend the extra money on it when you are going to do it any way.

When I priced out trim, which was last week, the "primed" stuff was about 40% less expensive than the stuff that wasn't primed. Hint: one is paint grade and the other is stain grade, therefore it costs more sans "primer."

then, I went to wiping down boards, and the primer came off in some areas. out came the primer and everything got a fresh coat.

others gave reasons above why you should prime "primed" trim. not sure if you are having a hard time reading or if your head got too wrapped up in being a curmudgeon that you just glossed over it.

 

[ZZZZZ]

Pre-primed trim can be MDF or solid wood, whereas stain grade is always solid wood.
.
.
.

 

[ChiTownPro]

When I priced out trim, which was last week, the "primed" stuff was about 40% less expensive than the stuff that wasn't primed. Hint: one is paint grade and the other is stain grade, therefore it costs more sans "primer."

then, I went to wiping down boards, and the primer came off in some areas. out came the primer and everything got a fresh coat.

others gave reasons above why you should prime "primed" trim. not sure if you are having a hard time reading or if your head got too wrapped up in being a curmudgeon that you just glossed over it.

No need to insult if you have a valid point.

Why are you pricing out stain grade? Price out paint grade. Apples to apples.

If primer is wiping off adding a layer on top of that isn't the fix. But what ever is acceptable to your clients is your business.

Edit: I went back and read the thread. This was your first post in the thread and the post prior to mine was the first to mention priming primed trim. Maybe you should read the posts instead of glossing over a thread.

 

[1acre]

No need to insult if you have a valid point.

No intention to insult. I am just direct and to the point. I don't sugar coat or create safe zones for sensitive peoples.

Why are you pricing out stain grade? Price out paint grade. Apples to apples.

I was actually pricing out paint grade. But, perhaps I should have sat there and insisted with my local lumber yard that I wanted paint grade unprimed? Which, btw, they don't offer. So, yeah, apples to apples.

If primer is wiping off adding a layer on top of that isn't the fix.

Pardon, I sanded then primed. I also ate a breakfast burrito smothered in green chile today.

But what ever is acceptable to your clients is your business.

I think this may be the root of the curmudgeonyness. Or perhaps I am mistaken what the "DIY" means in "diychatroom.com?" I thought you had to give the super secret handshake and then you could get into contractor talk. I figured over there was where all the mocking of us lowly DIY'ers takes place.

I actually find most people here to be helpful and am grateful for their willingness to help.

 

[ChiTownPro]

No intention to insult. I am just direct and to the point. I don't sugar coat or create safe zones for sensitive peoples.

I don't need a safe zone, just wanted to point out those that insult do so for the lack of a valid point. I figured that would fly over your head.

I was actually pricing out paint grade. But, perhaps I should have sat there and insisted with my local lumber yard that I wanted paint grade unprimed? Which, btw, they don't offer. So, yeah, apples to apples.

You said you got pricing for stain grade. There is a difference between paint grade and stain grade. Also, what lumber yard can't get paint grade trim? Even HD and Menards sells paint grade trim.

Pardon, I sanded then primed. I also ate a breakfast burrito smothered in green chile today.

Not sure I understand, but clarity goes hand in hand with being direct and to the point. This site is for those that don't do this for a living if you aren't specific in your process, you are not serving the viewership.

I think this may be the root of the curmudgeonyness. Or perhaps I am mistaken what the "DIY" means in "diychatroom.com?" I thought you had to give the super secret handshake and then you could get into contractor talk. I figured over there was where all the mocking of us lowly DIY'ers takes place.

Are you jealous of CT? I don't get the constant bashing of contractors who are members of that forum over here. I've been a member of CT since 2009 and this forum just isn't important enough to sit around and bad mouth, despite what you guys think goes on over there. That site is a site of contractors for contractors. The only discussion of this forum is to inform lost HO's to it's usefulness. This chip on your shoulder concerning CT is a bit miss placed.

I actually find most people here to be helpful and am grateful for their willingness to help.

Great! Like I said, what ever keeps you and who ever you are working for happy. Sorry that you took that as in insult. But I direct you back to your original response. You stated that I glossed over this thread and didn't read what others, yes plural, wrote about the reasons you prime primed stock. There was only one post concerning that statement. You acted like you made the statement as well, when you, nor anyone else had stated any reasons prior to that post.

You have a bone to pick but I think you are confused on your threads and who you need to pick it with. There is no reason to prime primed trim, none. Clean it and spot prime as needed. That need is very, very, very small making it silly advice to prime the entire lot.

If you really want to learn, then listen to my advice. Wipe it down with denatured alcohol and paint. If spots need attention, give them attention, but there is no need to paint the whole house when it's just the door that is peeling.

 

[chrisn]

Also this is why I prime pre-primed trim. No way to know where it was stored, how long it was stored, something was spilled on it. Mgr uses cheapest possible primer and it has just deteriorated from sitting too long.. Is it a PITA to do this, yes.Do these problems happen often, no. But has happened enough I consider it insurance to to go ahead and prime with 123.

I too, always prime the "pre primed" crap. So , I guess you and I don't agree with this statement

There is no reason to prime primed trim, none. Clean it and spot prime as needed. That need is very, very, very small making it silly advice to prime the entire lot.

 

[ChiTownPro]

Like I said you guys can waste your time and money all you want. I've installed thousands of feet of trim and never primed primed trim.

Sand any spots
Wipe down
Two coats of semi gloss
Hang
Fill and caulk

Money on the bank.

 

[Gymschu]

ChiTown, maybe the companies that prime their trim are getting better at it, but, there was a time in the not-so-distant past that the primer they used was horrible and it was causing MAJOR issues for painters who couldn't understand why the topcoats were failing so quickly or not adhering properly. Getting callbacks like that is costly, especially to small painting companies who had to absorb the cost of fixing those problems. The solution (albeit, maybe not technically the right answer) was to use a QUALITY primer over top of the cheap primer after getting as much of the cheap primer off of the wood. This seemed to solve the problem. Is it a waste of time and money? Maybe, but, if you get several callbacks a year, this insurance of a better primer is money and time well spent.

 

[ChiTownPro]

Why are painters buying trim?

Denatured alcohol will quickly vet out any problem trim. Between that and a light sanding you shouldn't have much to worry about.

But I will repeat, if you can get people to pay you to do it and all involved are happy I don't cate what one does. I just would never waste my time priming primed trim.