painting over polyurathane
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I would recommend you not paint them unless the wood looks hidious. You will have to keep painting them every 5 years or sooner to keep them looking good.
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Sand lightly to clean. Then use a solid color lacquer which can be colored to your selection. Paint will not hold as well.
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Originally Posted by slickshift
The Ideal Cabinet Repaint:
Clean with ammonia/water solution
Let dry
Sand with 180
This is to "rough up" the surface, not sand it off
Wipe with Tack Cloth
Prime with a white-pigmented shellac based primer*
(Use a disposable brush and take precautions
Plenty of fresh air and a respirator are good ideas when working with shellac)
Let dry
Sand with 180
This is a light sanding to smooth out the shellac a bit
Wipe with tack cloth
Paint first coat, using a good quality oil-based enamel, or a quality waterborne enamel, using the a good quality proper type brush (oil/water-based prefer different kinds of brushes)
Let dry over night
Lightly sand with 220
Wipe with tack cloth
Second coat quality oil based enamel, or a quality waterborne enamel, also with a proper brush
Enjoy beautiful cabinets
…and the long-lasting durable finish you applied yourself
*If the cabinets are in good shape, and not too dark, a quality oil-based (alkyd) primer may be used for priming (and TSP for cleaning)
I suggest a shellac because it works on just about any surface, dark, light, wood, laminate, bare wood, stained wood, polyurethane-ed wood, pickled wood, previously oil-based or latex painted wood, and even the questionable surfaces like inexpensive “paper” laminates if the surface is prepped and the shellac applied carefully
It’s also your best bet for plastic or melamine type surfaces
If the cabinets are known to have a quality, properly adhering, latex or waterborne finish in good shape, the primer step could be skipped if the surface was scuff sanded well-but it would still be better to do the step and use a quality water based enamel undercoating as a primer.
The Ideal Cabinet Repaint:
Clean with ammonia/water solution
Let dry
Sand with 180
This is to "rough up" the surface, not sand it off
Wipe with Tack Cloth
Prime with a white-pigmented shellac based primer*
(Use a disposable brush and take precautions
Plenty of fresh air and a respirator are good ideas when working with shellac)
Let dry
Sand with 180
This is a light sanding to smooth out the shellac a bit
Wipe with tack cloth
Paint first coat, using a good quality oil-based enamel, or a quality waterborne enamel, using the a good quality proper type brush (oil/water-based prefer different kinds of brushes)
Let dry over night
Lightly sand with 220
Wipe with tack cloth
Second coat quality oil based enamel, or a quality waterborne enamel, also with a proper brush
Enjoy beautiful cabinets
…and the long-lasting durable finish you applied yourself
*If the cabinets are in good shape, and not too dark, a quality oil-based (alkyd) primer may be used for priming (and TSP for cleaning)
I suggest a shellac because it works on just about any surface, dark, light, wood, laminate, bare wood, stained wood, polyurethane-ed wood, pickled wood, previously oil-based or latex painted wood, and even the questionable surfaces like inexpensive “paper” laminates if the surface is prepped and the shellac applied carefully
It’s also your best bet for plastic or melamine type surfaces
If the cabinets are known to have a quality, properly adhering, latex or waterborne finish in good shape, the primer step could be skipped if the surface was scuff sanded well-but it would still be better to do the step and use a quality water based enamel undercoating as a primer.
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