Painting oak trim with BM Advance - questions

2932 Views 12 Replies 8 Participants Last post by Brushjockey, Jan 16, 2013

sosee11

Discussion Starter · Jan 15, 2013

Hi all, I'm new here. My husband and I are taking on the gigantic task of painting all the ugly orangey-oak trim in our house. After much research we are going with BM's Advance for the trim which I am really excited to use. We're sanding and then priming with Graham's Aqua Borne ceramic primer.

I have a few questions:

1) Do I need to sand in between coats? The primer seems to have leveled out nicely already, so I was thinking just one coat of it without any additional sanding is fine.

2) When do we do the caulking? After the primer? Is all paintable caulk compatible with all types of paint?

3) We're also painting all the walls too, and were going to do so after painting the trim. I'm finding it hard to cut the trim into the walls, and am hoping that the paint that's ending up on the walls is fine to paint over with the wall paint we bought (BM's Regal Select).

Any advice would be great! It's our first time using an alkyd paint but I've heard (and seen) great things with the Advance so I'm hopeful it will turn out awesome.

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Windows

· #2 · Jan 15, 2013

1) If you are satisfied with the surface, no need to sand between coats.

2) Do the caulking after the prime coat, and be sure to give it 24 hours to dry. Paint can check on new caulk if it is not totally dry. After you lay out the caulk, wipe with a damp, lint-free cloth. That is how you give it a smooth finish.

3) It is fine to get paint from the trim on the walls (in fact, some overlap is preferable) so long as you brush it out until it is smooth. You do not want it to dry with ridges or texture.

Sounds like you are on the right track. Good luck.

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Brushjockey

· #3 · Jan 15, 2013

Sounds good- but to us old timers calling Advance an oil paint ( even though technically it is) is kind of strange. It will apply like a waterborne, clean up like a waterborne.
But it will act like an alkyd when dry.

It is good stuff.

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ToolSeeker

· #4 · Jan 15, 2013

painting all the ugly orangey-oak trim in our house.

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chrisn

· #5 · Jan 16, 2013

ToolSeeker said:
painting all the ugly orangey-oak trim in our house.

personally,I hate the stuff:laughing::thumbsup:

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Home repairs

· #6 · Jan 16, 2013

I use a lot of this paint although my preference is a traditional oil like Satin Impervo or FPoE Hollandlac.

I like all the tips prev. Left but would add the coverage with Advanced may require a third coat or primer and two coats for complete coverage over the orange tone.

Advanced is very thin. Here is a review I wrote about this product about a year ago
http://www.shearerpainting.com/blog...oore-paint-vs-proclassic-by-sherwin-williams/

Good luck

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Brushjockey

· #7 · Jan 16, 2013

Completely right-
sand for grip, bonding primer- caulk /fill as needed, 2 full coats.

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Gymschu

· #8 · Jan 16, 2013

Hate to hear that you are painting over oak. I remember the days when having oak trim in your house was da schnizzle. Personally, I would take out the oak trim and replace with poplar or another wood that is easy to paint. You could sell the oak and make enough money to offset some of the paint costs.........anyway, just hate to see oak get painted.

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sosee11

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jan 16, 2013

Thanks for the tips!

I know painting oak trim is controversial, but I personally hate the look. Not only that, but this is cheap, builder grade oak trim that was not taken care of by previous owners and already has random paint on it from when they painted the walls. It has to go.

We thought about tearing it all out and just replacing with pre-primed trim, but that would cost too much.

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jsheridan

· #10 · Jan 16, 2013

My only caution with Advance is to be careful in the application. It has a tendency to sag and run. You may find puddles of it at the base of your door frames and on window sills, especially if you're using a hard, glossy primer. Scuffing the primer might help give the paint something to grab and slow it down. And remember, I believe that's a 16 hour recoat time, don't rush it.

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sosee11

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jan 16, 2013

Thanks jsheridan!

The primer finish feels like flat or eggshell, so hopefully that will help with the sagging potential. I thought I read somewhere that the latest formulation of the Advance tried to address the sagging issue?

Anyways - we will be sure to use only thin coats (the guy at the paint store said the same thing) and be on the lookout for sags and drips.

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jsheridan

· #12 · Jan 16, 2013

I guess I was fooled by the "ceramic" in the name of your chosen primer. I pictured, somewhat like shellac, a harder more glossy finish. I had heard about addressing the sagging issue as well, but I haven't used it lately so I can't tell, only from past experience. I take those type of promises with a grain of salt.
Anyway, you'll get the hang of it, eventually, if you have enough trim to blow through.

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Brushjockey

· #13 · Jan 16, 2013

I found that Advance was a natural for me- I hate real thick paints anyway.
But with all paints- the trick is to get the feel of how they work.
There is an attitude that "paint is paint" - but there are so many subtle differences between them that it really isn't easy.

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