DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My project for covid break-is painting the exterior of our craftsman bungalow. I have redwood clapboards, surprisingly in decent shape. Only on the SUN side of house has chipping paint, the rest of house I can just clean and prep.

The tough part has been scrapping the chips (laid plastic down, n100 mask respirator, goggles and tyvek suit)...I feathered in some of the areas that got to bare wood to old paint, with some patching compound.

The main question is the PRIMER, im in a debate with myself on using OIL or WATER based primer? The primer needs to adhere to a few minor areas of raw wood, but mostly old lead based paint and whatever the last owner painted 10-15 yrs ago.

Pretty set on water based PAINT, but what about primer? my wife picked up a 5 gallon of zinsser 1-2-3 primer, but not sure to open it-maybe return for some oil based?

What do you think?
 

· retired painter
Joined
·
14,809 Posts
I don't know if there will be any tannins left to bleed on 100 yr old wood but oil base will block the tannins while latex usually doesn't. Oil base primer generally adheres and seals better than latex primer. If the existing paint is chalky and you can't remove all the chalk you need to either coat it with an oil base primer or add Flood's EmulsaBond to the 1st coat of latex.


Sometimes a latex primer is preferred on old houses that don't have a vapor barrier. Latex will let the wall breath while oil base will restrict moisture passing thru. This can be an issue in the southeast - I don't know if it is in your climate.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,016 Posts
Oil gives penetration, latex does not. Some people have been known to use a waterborne stain as a primer, just because it will penetrate into raw wood. Then, you can topcoat that with regular paint.


However, if its a repaint, I would feel confident spot priming with 123, if there isnt extensive raw spots. If the whole side has flaked off or something, I might consider using a slow dry oil on that side only It really depends on the shape of the wood. Quality paints nowadays can handle chalky surfaces. Thats why its getting harder and harder to find Emulsabond.

After you get it scraped and spot primed, if its chalky, bucket wash it with a car brush, and simple green or something. It MIGHT take care of it.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top