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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1st post. Nice forum. Seems to be a lot of knowledgeable people here.

On to the question...
Yesterday, I picked up some "select choice" white (pine, I think) from lowes to replace some varnished trim around a sliding glass door (we replaced paneling with sheetrock, so the trim had to be extended or replaced). I cut, fit and nailed the boards, then used 2 coats Zinser 123 primer.

After the primer had dried, I found that the wood seemed a bit rough, not as if there were dirt or contaminates in the paint, but more like I should have sanded the wood before priming. It almost seems like the primer brought the ridges out. The grain of the wood seems a bit "raised". It never occurred to me, as the boards felt smooth before I primed. The "grain ridges" aren't really "edgy"...more like smooth ridges.

Will a few coats of good semi-gloss enamel help? We'll be painting the doors and BB soon, and that will be included. I suppose I could sand it down to the wood and start over, but I don't really want to, esp. since we will be replacing the sliding glass door in a few years.

Also, any tips on type of paint and process for painting new (primed from distributor) trim and a new door? I'm a complete paint novice, so I'm not even sure if a brush or roller is best. Thanks for any suggestions.
 

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I sand all my trim before priming.
Any flat stock will have what's called mill marks from where they ran it through the planer that will leave lines on the surface.
 
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Hey Bob, welcome to the forum.
It's normal for a latex to raise a bit of grain. I wouldn't sand it to raw wood again, but all primed wood should be sanded prior to finish. BTW, only one coat of primer is necessary, but don't feel bad, for some reason that seems to be happening a lot lately. Is that on the cans now? The only time I double prime is exterior on old weathered wood.
I would sand the primed wood with 150, sometimes 120. Dust it off well and finish with two coats of your finish choice.
As to finish I would go to one of the majors, SW, BM, etc., tell them what you need and let them show you what's available. I would brush everything out, and don't skimp on paint or brushes. If you think you're saving by buying cheap on either, you're only fooling yourself. You'll pay tenfold in labor with cheap.
I'm assuming BB is bead board. You can apply the material to the bead board with a mini roller and then lay it off with a brush, doing only a few sections at a time. Check back with further questions.
Joe
 

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Jsheridan, it depends on how rough the trim is after priming.I find that 220 works pretty well for me on most casings and the like. But I understand your point. :thumbsup:
 

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Jsheridan, it depends on how rough the trim is after priming.I find that 220 works pretty well for me on most casings and the like. But I understand your point. :thumbsup:
I hear you, I was speaking in general terms and more for painter primed surfaces. And it does depend on the surface. I use shellac a bit for priming and that doesn't require as much cut as latex primer. Factory primed surfaces generally don't need that heavy a cut either. Try the heavier paper with a light touch, it leaves a real nice finish. While you don't want to cut into the wood, a little bit might happen, but I found it doesn't mar the finish after two coats. If I remember correctly, 123 takes a good sanding without cutting to wood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey Bob, welcome to the forum.
It's normal for a latex to raise a bit of grain. I wouldn't sand it to raw wood again, but all primed wood should be sanded prior to finish. BTW, only one coat of primer is necessary, but don't feel bad, for some reason that seems to be happening a lot lately. Is that on the cans now? The only time I double prime is exterior on old weathered wood.
I would sand the primed wood with 150, sometimes 120. Dust it off well and finish with two coats of your finish choice.
As to finish I would go to one of the majors, SW, BM, etc., tell them what you need and let them show you what's available. I would brush everything out, and don't skimp on paint or brushes. If you think you're saving by buying cheap on either, you're only fooling yourself. You'll pay tenfold in labor with cheap.
I'm assuming BB is bead board. You can apply the material to the bead board with a mini roller and then lay it off with a brush, doing only a few sections at a time. Check back with further questions.
Joe
Hi Joe. Thanks for your response (and all responses!). I 2nd coated the primer because the 1st coat seemed rather thin (i.e., I could still see the wood through the primer). Maybe this is normal. I tend to be the overkill type, and this also means that I have a compulsion to buy high quality materials. As for BB, I was referring to baseboard (mfd), primed from distributor. Thanks to all for the help. Nice to know there's a place where I can find good (and quick!) answers. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh, and I forgot one more question: How best can one remove varnish from aluminum? Apparently, whoever varnished the original (50 yr old) trim around the sliding glass doors apparently didn't tape it off and wasn't too handy with the brush. Sanding it seems to leave scratches. :)
 

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Hi Joe. Thanks for your response (and all responses!). I 2nd coated the primer because the 1st coat seemed rather thin (i.e., I could still see the wood through the primer). Maybe this is normal. I tend to be the overkill type, and this also means that I have a compulsion to buy high quality materials. As for BB, I was referring to baseboard (mfd), primed from distributor. Thanks to all for the help. Nice to know there's a place where I can find good (and quick!) answers. :)

yes it is
 

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You're welcome Bob, good luck with your project. There's a good group here, and lively at times.:laughing:
You might want to try denatured alcohol first in the hope it might be shellac. If the aluminum is painted you have to step carefully because whatever is strong enough to take the varnish off might be strong enough to damage the finish. Try a small area first. If there's any nail polish remover around house the acetone in it may help, see if it softens it up any. You can get acetone at HD, the paint/hardware store. Unfortunately, I'm not real experienced with having to remove paint in this manner. The paint store might be helpful, or someone else here may.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just an update. For the varnish/sliding glass door issue, I tried mineral spirits, acetone and a few different goop gone products. I finally wound up using Klean Strip. I let it sit for 20 mins and off it came. Denatured alcohol did the rest. Thanks!
 

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Bob...
3M manufactures a purple-colored sandpaper that is made specifically for latex finishes. I does not gum up the latex like regular production paper.

RE: Varnish ob gypsum? Spot-prime it with 1-2-3 and paint over it.
 

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Bob...
3M manufactures a purple-colored sandpaper that is made specifically for latex finishes. I does not gum up the latex like regular production paper.

RE: Varnish ob gypsum? Spot-prime it with 1-2-3 and paint over it.
No, a past HO slathered varnish all over the factory finish aluminum frame of sliding doors.
 
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