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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been reading different forums here and elsewhere. I am going to paint latex acrylic over old enamel. Have been getting different prep suggestions. Some are saying it is ok to just clean with mineral spirits or tsp and paint. Some say use a green scuff pad then clean with ms/tsp. Etc etc!

My thought is to rough up the paint with a light sand paper or a green scrubby, can you wipe down with mineral spirist let dry and paint? Should it be TSP, and what exactly is TSP. Does anything need to be done after wiping with ms/tsp? Or just let dry and paint?

I willl also be painting plaster walls after removing the rest of the wallpaper. I have been told to wipe that down with TSP. Any post instructions for TSP use on plaster?

Thank You All AGAIN!
 

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What you do depends on a few details. What base paint is there now? Is it oil or latex? What paint are you going to use? Certain transitions require a primer. What sheen does it have? Any type of sheen above flat would require a roughing to give the surface some tooth for the new coat to adhere to.
Ron
 

· paper hanger and painter
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Enamel across the pond usually means oil. You need to lightly sand all trim. clean the dust, prime with a bonding primer( oil or latex,oil would be preferable but not necessary) apply your 2 finish coats of latex, done. For the walls, after your paper is removed, you will need to get as much of the residual paste off as possible, either washing with a removal solution or sanding, then apply Gardz if available or an oil based bonding sealing type primer, topcoat with your 2 finish coats, done.It would help to know what type primers are available where ever you are
 

· Household Handyman
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I'm not the expert I want to be with paints, but I do know the difference between Mineral Spirits and Tri-Sodium Phosphate (TSP). First, Mineral Spirits is a petroleum derivative, in other words: made from petroleum, like gas, oil, diesel fuel. IF MS is used, there will be somewhat of a film left behind, no matter if it looks, and/or feels dry. TSP, on the other hand is a man-made product by blending chemicals. To my knowledge, in my training, there are no petrol by-products used in TSP. TSP mixed properly, one cup of TSP powder/one gallon of HOT water should be in the 10-12 Ph range, somewhat alkaline, but not harmful unless you keep your hands in it for extended periods. TSP is used as a de-greaser, a paint film/paint dust remover, and when washed behind itself the rinsed with clean water, normally, does not leave a film. I use it for cleaning any wood work on houses, particularly decks. I personally don't like Mineral Spirits except for cleaning really greasy, dirty car parts in a proper cleaning tank. As far as which paints can cover which paints, hopefully an expert will give that advice. I usually wind up putting the wrong paint over the wrong paint, and it looks wrong for sure. Thanks, David
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm not the expert I want to be with paints, but I do know the difference between Mineral Spirits and Tri-Sodium Phosphate (TSP). First, Mineral Spirits is a petroleum derivative, in other words: made from petroleum, like gas, oil, diesel fuel. IF MS is used, there will be somewhat of a film left behind, no matter if it looks, and/or feels dry. TSP, on the other hand is a man-made product by blending chemicals. To my knowledge, in my training, there are no petrol by-products used in TSP. TSP mixed properly, one cup of TSP powder/one gallon of HOT water should be in the 10-12 Ph range, somewhat alkaline, but not harmful unless you keep your hands in it for extended periods. TSP is used as a de-greaser, a paint film/paint dust remover, and when washed behind itself the rinsed with clean water, normally, does not leave a film. I use it for cleaning any wood work on houses, particularly decks. I personally don't like Mineral Spirits except for cleaning really greasy, dirty car parts in a proper cleaning tank. As far as which paints can cover which paints, hopefully an expert will give that advice. I usually wind up putting the wrong paint over the wrong paint, and it looks wrong for sure. Thanks, David
Thank You ALL, please keep them coming if you think of anything!!!:thumbup:
Thurman that is what I needed to know basically, after wallpaper removal, I wash with TSP, then wash/rinse with Plain CLEAN water, let dry and prime? Not sure what primers are around, but I live in Philadelphia so I would "THINK" just about anything?! The wallpaper and glue is coming off very nicely, much better than I could ever have hoped for. Just want to make sure my post wallpaper/pre painting prep is correct!

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What you do depends on a few details. What base paint is there now? Is it oil or latex? What paint are you going to use? Certain transitions require a primer. What sheen does it have? Any type of sheen above flat would require a roughing to give the surface some tooth for the new coat to adhere to.
Ron
Ron, I know it is a gloss enamel. (the woodwork) Would a 120 grit be enough to give it some bite?
 

· Too Short? Cut it Again!
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You will be sorry if you try to but a latex over an oil based enamel without a primer! As mentioned, unless really greasy TSP or something like it should work out fine. If you are painting a kitchen or something you might want to use mineral spirits first.
 
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