I dont know this for sure but I think it may be a BIN issue. Using an oil based primer has solved this issue for me in the past. Have also heard this from another PT member and eric reason on his youtube page mentioned this.I tried posting before but forgot picture. I decided to paint some dated pine cabinets. After much online research I decided to use SW Emerald Enamel. After weeks of prep work which included:
Krud Deglosser with scotchbrite pad /wiping with damp cloth new dawn soap/rinse to remove any residue -removing dirt and grease
Sanding – getting close to grain – slightly more than just “scuffed” up using 120 Grit
Used Shellac Primer – due to stopping knots from showing through and alleged tannins – 2 coats and sanded between both coats using 320 grit
2 coats of SW and sanded between first and 2nd coat with 320 /400 grit
• Ensured I waited 24 hours between coats
• painted in proper relative humidity- Used a mohair roller – with brush for corners
• Did the adhesion test after first coat of paint using scored grid and duck tape – no paint pulled off
• Allowed cupboards to cure for 3 weeks before I hung them up
• As I was hanging them up and attaching the hardware paint chipped away from the cupboard doors around the top edge as soon as they made contact with wall
The cupboards look beautiful – just cannot touch them or use them ☹
So …I have no idea what to do other than burn them – I have no idea where my process went wrong? I can’t even start over because I don’t know what to change – I wonder if it is the paint is just not suitable for this project /wood ?? hate to say how many hours I put into the prep -its embarrassing that I failed this process
I have painted random items in my house with cheap paint – no primer /no scuffing no cleaning and the paint stayed on a lot better than this …I used chalk paint on a kitchen sideboard cabinet we use everyday six years ago and no chipping – just didn’t think chalk would be suitable for kitchen cabinets. I was trying to avoid a big kitchen Reno right now -but my only option is to sand down to bare wood again and go back to a clear coat. This will be a long difficult road -I tried touching up a few doors and clear coating a few with Minwax polycrylic -clear -satin - nope - still chips
The pictures show the chipping - with the ugly primer peeking through -and you see beside where I scraped them with my fingernail off to the side - which just scratched and did not chip - but easily chipped off along the edges. I wished I had of tinted the primer - at least that would have been as offensive
Paint for Kitchen cabinets did not adere -Even before use
I tried posting before but forgot picture. I decided to paint some dated pine cabinets. After much online research I decided to use SW Emerald Enamel. After weeks of prep work which included:
Krud Deglosser with scotchbrite pad /wiping with damp cloth new dawn soap/rinse to remove any residue -removing dirt and grease
Sanding – getting close to grain – slightly more than just “scuffed” up using 120 Grit
Used Shellac Primer – due to stopping knots from showing through and alleged tannins – 2 coats and sanded between both coats using 320 grit
2 coats of SW and sanded between first and 2nd coat with 320 /400 grit
• Ensured I waited 24 hours between coats
• painted in proper relative humidity- Used a mohair roller – with brush for corners
• Did the adhesion test after first coat of paint using scored grid and duck tape – no paint pulled off
• Allowed cupboards to cure for 3 weeks before I hung them up
• As I was hanging them up and attaching the hardware paint chipped away from the cupboard doors around the top edge as soon as they made contact with wall
The cupboards look beautiful – just cannot touch them or use them ☹
So …I have no idea what to do other than burn them – I have no idea where my process went wrong? I can’t even start over because I don’t know what to change – I wonder if it is the paint is just not suitable for this project /wood ?? hate to say how many hours I put into the prep -its embarrassing that I failed this process
I have painted random items in my house with cheap paint – no primer /no scuffing no cleaning and the paint stayed on a lot better than this …I used chalk paint on a kitchen sideboard cabinet we use everyday six years ago and no chipping – just didn’t think chalk would be suitable for kitchen cabinets. I was trying to avoid a big kitchen Reno right now -but my only option is to sand down to bare wood again and go back to a clear coat. This will be a long difficult road -I tried touching up a few doors and clear coating a few with Minwax polycrylic -clear -satin - nope - still chips
The pictures show the chipping - with the ugly primer peeking through -and you see beside where I scraped them with my fingernail off to the side - which just scratched and did not chip - but easily chipped off along the edges. I wished I had of tinted the primer - at least that would have been as offensive
Krud Deglosser with scotchbrite pad /wiping with damp cloth new dawn soap/rinse to remove any residue -removing dirt and grease
Sanding – getting close to grain – slightly more than just “scuffed” up using 120 Grit
Used Shellac Primer – due to stopping knots from showing through and alleged tannins – 2 coats and sanded between both coats using 320 grit
2 coats of SW and sanded between first and 2nd coat with 320 /400 grit
• Ensured I waited 24 hours between coats
• painted in proper relative humidity- Used a mohair roller – with brush for corners
• Did the adhesion test after first coat of paint using scored grid and duck tape – no paint pulled off
• Allowed cupboards to cure for 3 weeks before I hung them up
• As I was hanging them up and attaching the hardware paint chipped away from the cupboard doors around the top edge as soon as they made contact with wall
The cupboards look beautiful – just cannot touch them or use them ☹
So …I have no idea what to do other than burn them – I have no idea where my process went wrong? I can’t even start over because I don’t know what to change – I wonder if it is the paint is just not suitable for this project /wood ?? hate to say how many hours I put into the prep -its embarrassing that I failed this process
I have painted random items in my house with cheap paint – no primer /no scuffing no cleaning and the paint stayed on a lot better than this …I used chalk paint on a kitchen sideboard cabinet we use everyday six years ago and no chipping – just didn’t think chalk would be suitable for kitchen cabinets. I was trying to avoid a big kitchen Reno right now -but my only option is to sand down to bare wood again and go back to a clear coat. This will be a long difficult road -I tried touching up a few doors and clear coating a few with Minwax polycrylic -clear -satin - nope - still chips
The pictures show the chipping - with the ugly primer peeking through -and you see beside where I scraped them with my fingernail off to the side - which just scratched and did not chip - but easily chipped off along the edges. I wished I had of tinted the primer - at least that would have been as offensive
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So...
As per above - I got out the orbital and sanded all 22 of the fronts. As you can see harder to remove the paint further away from the edge. Applied one coat of cover stain let it dry 24+ hours lighted sanded out and Reapplied the SW paint in Semigloss ( not satin). I had called SW and they told me to bring in the door - see why paint not sticking they suggested i use the semigloss instead -
Well - the paint still easily chipping off again - I lightly sanded between each coat with 400 grit - cant figure it out. Some weird interplay between the primer and paint.
I applied the SW paint directly to a sanded door as I had a spare one I was no longer using - the paint adheres much better when applied directly to the wood ???
I used the same paint to paint a pre primed door and it is adhering well -no issue. I wanted to use a primer so the knots wouldn't bleed through-maybe that was wrong approach.
This two week project is now two months - paint man told me to strip each door down to the bare wood again with paint stripper- start over - Not liking this sense of failure.
As per above - I got out the orbital and sanded all 22 of the fronts. As you can see harder to remove the paint further away from the edge. Applied one coat of cover stain let it dry 24+ hours lighted sanded out and Reapplied the SW paint in Semigloss ( not satin). I had called SW and they told me to bring in the door - see why paint not sticking they suggested i use the semigloss instead -
Well - the paint still easily chipping off again - I lightly sanded between each coat with 400 grit - cant figure it out. Some weird interplay between the primer and paint.
I applied the SW paint directly to a sanded door as I had a spare one I was no longer using - the paint adheres much better when applied directly to the wood ???
I used the same paint to paint a pre primed door and it is adhering well -no issue. I wanted to use a primer so the knots wouldn't bleed through-maybe that was wrong approach.
This two week project is now two months - paint man told me to strip each door down to the bare wood again with paint stripper- start over - Not liking this sense of failure.
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1 - 20 of 29 Posts
