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Paint and primer in one over primer

1K views 12 replies 6 participants last post by  woodco 
#1 ·
I'm new to painting. I prepped my basement for painting. Sanded all the trim with 120 and 220 grit paper. I then primed with kilz hide all interior primer; multi-surface primer and sealer with one coat then put more down over spots that needed it. Next I used behr marquee paint and primer in one and ran into trouble ( see picture ). Maybe a dumb question, but do I need to use a paint without primer if I've already primed my surface. In this case wooden trim. Thank you.
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#2 ·
Evem though your trim is up off the concrete, I suspect that moisture has played a big roll in the paint separating and coming off. I bet it came off on your brush as you were priming. I would let that dry then scrape off what you can, prime, and re-paint.
 
#3 ·
This is what would be the first coat of semigloss after the primer had fully dried. This happened as I was applying the paint. What do you mean by came off my brush as I was priming? Are there no issues using paint and primer in one over primer? Thanks a lot.
 
#4 ·
There should be no issue with primer/paint over your primer. Maybe moisture as was said or could be something on the wood bleeding through causing grief. I had a teenager who had ketchup on his wall which was washed off as thoroughly as possible. But even after two coats of KILZ over the cleaned area I still had trouble getting latex paint to work over the area.
 
#7 ·
Everyone on here needs to STOP saying 'paint and primer in one.' Thats a marketing term. its PAINT. PERIOD. Its not primer and paint mixed together, ffs.

Behr is garbage paint. Behr Marquee is top of the line garbage paint that covers really well. I still say that looks like the base was brushed heavily, started to dry for a few minutes, then hit with a brush again, ruining the surface. Behr is notorious for acting snotty and sticky during application.
 
#9 ·
Everyone on here needs to STOP saying 'paint and primer in one.' Thats a marketing term. its PAINT.
Well it's the term actually on the label of the paint can, so it's very reasonable it's the term people would use. And IMO it IS the term people should use if that's the term the industry uses. You're swimming uphill, as if you're trying to tell the world to stop saying "french fries" because they're not actually from France. Whether it is actually paint and primer mixed together isn't really the point, but the point is that there is something different about these paints that allows these manufacturers to warranty the paints as "self priming over bare drywall", or however else they word it in the instructions. And PnPn1 is the term they use. (And I'm not even talking about any blocking abilities these paints might have because I've never used them as such, but I also have no reason to doubt they have at least a little blocking ability, even if they are not as full strength as the best primer for that job.)

Just consider the paint lines of the manufacturers that make these paints. If it was only a gimmick with no chemistry at all behind it, then it would obviously be advantageous for manufacturers to put that label on all the paints they make. But they don't. Now you could quibble with this marketing and insist that the manufacturers label their paints "self priming over drywall", or even "no primer required over bare drywall", and you might even say that some paints could do that before they started labeling their cans that way. But I for one don't really blame the manufacturers since what they're doing makes perfect sense. The real root of the problem is "the industry" (however you define that term) convincing people that they needed primers in a bunch of situations where they never did to begin with. But I have no proof that there's nothing in these paints that accomplishes or is a substitute for the kind of priming that is needed over bare drywall, and I suspect you don't either.
 
#11 ·
I’ll bite. @jeffnc I guess I’m in the minority on this, but I always prime bare drywall with drywall primer. My process is to the sand the dry primer to make the new walls smooth. Wasted step? Maybe. But, those walls will then be smooth for the rest of time. If I just use paint or paint + primer, I can’t sand properly. The sandpaper gums up or the sanding burns through the paint unlike it does with good old primer. Most painters I know do this. Might be a regional thing as no one else on here sands new drywall after priming.
 
#12 ·
I’ll bite. @jeffnc I guess I’m in the minority on this, but I always prime bare drywall with drywall primer. My process is to the sand the dry primer to make the new walls smooth. Wasted step?
No, it's not a wasted step, it's just a higher quality job. Most (not all) clients I work for would not be that interested in paying for that. You might say you don't charge extra for that - you do it on all jobs, but the other way to look at it is if a customer told you to skip that step, you could do the job for less. But I certainly have done that as well. Usually I would use a finish paint such as Cashmere if that's the kind of job they are interested in.
 
#13 ·
Sorry, but I can say that all Interior latex Behr paint is garbage, not matter what grade it is. It all smells like ammonia, it all rolls 'sticky' or 'snotty', none of it has good adhesion, none of it levels good, and its too thick for its own good.

Dont get me wrong, I can make it look good on a wall, and once its dry its fine, but its garbage nonetheless. Its not made from good material. I guess its cool that I can get it at later hours and weekends though.

I feel the same for Sherwins lower tiered paints. They smell like crap, and almost never touch up. As much as I dont like Behr, I've never had a problem with it hatbanding or touching up, like I do with ole' Slick Willys lower grade stuff.
 
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