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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a pass and seymour single pole 15Amp lighted decor switch in the black color and it doesnt work. the power is always supplied to the lights no matter which position the switch is in and the little red light on the sitch never comes on. i have been through 3 of them from 2 different lowes and actually called P&S and they sent me a free switch that still doesnt work. switched wires around and same result. i checked it with a meter for continuity and it operates as it is supposed to. when i hook up a non-lighted decor switch, it works fine. Anyone else have an issue with this switch? anything im doing wrong? its just odd to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
its a single pole, pretty simple hook up no? and it says wire position doesnt matter, i even reversed the wires for ha-ha's. no results, except it doesnt work. power is never cut off to lights. non lighted was fine though. even the pass and seymour tech help was baffled.
 

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What type of lights are you using? I once had a motion switch that would not work with cfl bulbs, had to use incandescent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
the lowes link is the exact same switch, its in the vertical position and controls 2 wall lights with incandescent bulbs, has 2 terminals, and 2 black wires, 1 to the light and 1 from the power and a ground terminal, i bought the same black switch but without the light on it and it works perfect. its all new wiring run from the bath to the panel and to the light.
 

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It's a defective switch. Shut off the breaker, connect the two wires together and turn the breaker back on. If it works, it's a bad switch. I don't know how anyone could screw up 2 wires (not an insult) so it must be a defective switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yes it works fine with the wires together. like i said i used a non-lighted switch and its fine. but the lighted ones are no good. 4 switches i have been through and none of them work. i can live with the regular switch, its just so weird though how it wont work, and 4 of them to!! finding another black switch with light thats NOT from p&s isnt easy. thanks guys for the input and tips.
 

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I tried to find a spec sheet on the P&S web site but there isn't anything. The one thing that seems to stand out is that this is a switch with a light so how does the internal lamp get a neutral return? In the off position a high impedance LED in series with an incandescent bulb would light but when the switch is ON the terminals are shorted so how could the LED light?
What size bulbs are in the two lamps that this switch controls?
 

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What do you suppose a Tri-drive ground refers to?

  • Stylish rounded corners match Signature wall plates and devices.
  • Designer-style satin-finish rocker.
  • High-impact resistant thermoplastic construction.
  • External screw-pressure-plate back and side wired. Accepts #12 and #14 AWG.
  • Push wire #14 AWG.
  • Narrow back body leaves more room for wires in the box.
  • Extra-long, through-body strap eliminates floating installations and imperfect applications.
  • Smooth, quiet paddle action.
  • Easy-access green hex head ground screw.
  • Tri-drive ground, terminal and mounting screw.
Does your switch circuit have a true ground?
 

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Tri-drive I believe refers to a screw head that can be driven with a straight, phillips or square drive.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
2- 60 watt bulbs in the fixtures. maybe the tri-drive refers to the fact that you can use 3 different screwdrivers to drive the screws? i see philips and flat, i dont know the third. im sittin here staring at it and my wife is telling me to forget about it, lol. nothing on the switch is marked to put wires anywhere special, just 2 gold screw and a ground. yes its totally grounded to. how could P&s screw up so royally on a lighted switch if you needed a neutral? thats a huge flaw on there part seeing as there are boxes full at every lowes. its still bothering the crap outta me.
 

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Do the lights actually stay on or you just getting an indication of power with an inductance tester? You may be detecting a small current leakage required to light the switch.
 

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Maybe you have the neutral leading to the switch instead of the hot.

Test for 120VAC from the leads to a known ground. If not, you could rewire the switch feeder to the hot side in the light box.
 

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Maybe you have the neutral leading to the switch instead of the hot.

Test for 120VAC from the leads to a known ground. If not, you could rewire the switch feeder to the hot side in the light box.
Switching the neutral is an interest thought...
Remove both light bulbs from the fixtures. (needed for isolating the circuit)
Remove the switch. (Don't forget to turn off the breaker)
You said the switch had a ground wire so now measure with a volt meter from each wire that was connected to the switch to the ground wire. You will need the breaker on so just be careful with those wires.
Do you get a 120V reading on either of the wires?
 

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Same problem

I installed a P&S TradeMaster 3 way switch and it functioned perfectly. Then I added a light, in accordance with the instructions. The optional light seems to overide the switch so that there is continues electricty with the light installed. When I remove the light and replace the plastic tab the switch works. I replaced the entire assembly with another P&S TradeMaster 3 way switch and the same thing happened. I then installed the switch in another location and it worked fine. Rather than starting a new thread I thought it would be better to join this one as the light seems to be the cause in both cases. I don't have the lights mounted, just have the wires capped as I'm tiling the wall and changing the light fixtures afterwards.
 
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