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I'm installing a new built in oven in my parents house,exsisting wires are a 3 wires, black,white,copper grd.The oven is black,white,red,and green. How do I wire it in? thanks for any help.
oven installation
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The oven is a kenmore 79040459800 Thanks
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Thanks
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You can use a three wire feed... IF the three wire feed is correct. What the OP has is not correct. It must be three insulated wires or SE cable that originates from the main service. What he describes is **/2 NM cable, which has never been correct for a 120/240V stove/oven installation.
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Leave it to Kenmores technical writers to screw this up.
You cannot use the existing 3 wire branch circuit it was originally a 240 volt only branch circuit with an equipment ground (bare) a black (hot) and a white (used as hot). Existing 3 wire branch circuits are only allowed if they originate at the service equipment, are 120/240 with an insulated neutral or a bare neutral that is part of a SE type cable, and an equipment ground is not present in the branch circuit.
Your cable has an equipment ground, it likely is a nm-b type cable and cannot provide or meet NEC code as a 3 wire existing branch circuit for a 120/240 volt appliance.
As jerry and househelper said you need a new 4 wire branch circuit.
You cannot use the existing 3 wire branch circuit it was originally a 240 volt only branch circuit with an equipment ground (bare) a black (hot) and a white (used as hot). Existing 3 wire branch circuits are only allowed if they originate at the service equipment, are 120/240 with an insulated neutral or a bare neutral that is part of a SE type cable, and an equipment ground is not present in the branch circuit.
Your cable has an equipment ground, it likely is a nm-b type cable and cannot provide or meet NEC code as a 3 wire existing branch circuit for a 120/240 volt appliance.
As jerry and househelper said you need a new 4 wire branch circuit.
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The house had a exsisting double built in oven that was hard wired into this circuit with the same wires that the new oven has.Black white green red My father bought a new single built in oven, unfortunately he took the wires apart before I got to look at them.The house 3 wires black,white,cooper. The oven has black,white,green,red.black to black,green to copper,white to white,red to?Thanks
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Any way that it was previously wired is no basis to assume that it was right. As has been said, it is an improper setup and potentially dangerous. No one here is going to tell you how to do it wrong again. The fact is, you need 4 wires from your panel box. What you had before may have worked, but it was not legal then, and it certainly is not legal now.
Sorry, people just don't like to here that. And if you insist on going forward with the way it is, you will have to do it by yourself with trial and error.
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Thanks to everyone that tried to help. I just didn't know since a 4 wire oven was already there.That's why I asked
Some would argue that the back/white/bare NM cable is the same as the black/black/bare SE cable. It has two insulated wires and one bare wire.
If an existing cable is the black/black/bare SE type, it is legal to install both the white and green from the oven to the bare in the cable.
Personally, I don't see the difference but whoever wrote this section of the electrical code has a different opinion.
If an existing cable is the black/black/bare SE type, it is legal to install both the white and green from the oven to the bare in the cable.
Personally, I don't see the difference but whoever wrote this section of the electrical code has a different opinion.
Maybe its since the ground in nm may be smaller than the conductors, so it would be a hazard to use it as a neutral...or the fact that it has to be tied to other equipment grounding conductors in a jb?
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any curent carrying conductor past the line side of the service has to insulated..except if its se....the only thing that neutral is for is the timer and such..it doesn't have that much current on it, so i don't think sizing is an issue
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220, i think we discussed this on the other forum...
One of my first troubleshooting experiences taught me different. This was the early 70's when all ranges were 3 wire. I had one leg open and the stove top burners only worked on LOW. This told me that, in least in that case, that the bare conductor and the frame of the appliance was being used to carry substantial current.
I believe that dryers also use 120v motors and 240V elements.
As far as the size of the SE ground....????? I dont know. I twisted some up just yeaterday and, although it seemed like it might be full size, it may just be because it's twisted up more than the insulated wires. The more you twist, the fatter it gets.
***Dont hook white to white***
Oven black to wall black,
Oven Red to wall white,
Oven green and white to wall bare copper- all 3 tied together.
It used to be done that way, not anymore. Double check with a multimeter that the white is a hot. Fellow Sparky's, I am not condoning but I saw a potential hazard developing.
Just incase you ignore the correct advice you were given here I just want to make note of your wiring connections you described. DONT hook white to white!!!! The white is being used as a hot conductor from your panel. The connection will be :
Oven black to wall black,
Oven Red to wall white,
Oven green and white to wall bare copper- all 3 tied together.
It used to be done that way, not anymore. Double check with a multimeter that the white is a hot. Fellow Sparky's, I am not condoning but I saw a potential hazard developing.
Im just making sure, if anybody reads this post, he is not saying its ok to do that...just in case anybody misses that point.
He knows that. It was thrown out there for the "just in case it gets hooked back up the way it was" situation.
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