[whitecraw]

Hi

My outside spigot needs replaced, and I've been told that I just need unscrew it from the copper pipe and put on a new one, but I dont think its that easy!

Inside the basement, the water valve is turned off and the copper water pipe extends for about ~24" till it reaches the outside. On the outside (take a look at the pic attached), it appears that there is threading, but on the wall side of the threading it looks to be welded (?). I tried grabbing the pipe on the wall side to steady the main pipe, and the also grabbing it with a wrench at what appears to be a nut and rotating counter-clockwise. It is super stiff, and WD40 didnt make any difference.

Am I applying force at the correct locations? I really dont want to damage the pipe, inside or outside.

Cheers

 

[jmon]

Well, it would have been easy if they used the male threaded part of the faucet and actually screwed it to a female fitting. But they didn't do that. it looks like they soldered it right to the copper pipe. I've seen that before.

With sharkbyte fittings it's easy as well, no soldering required. Just cut the pipe and push on connectors. watch a video on how to do it if you never worked with them before.

Recommend a frost free hose bib as well. They make those with sharkbyte fitting as well. Just a suggestion.

 

[whitecraw]

Thanks! Right, so you definately think thats a solder joint. A bit strange to do that. I've used sharkbite connectors before, but havent heard of sharkbyte with frost free hose bib. Are those straightforward to get at Home Depot or similar?

 

[jmon]

Thanks! Right, so you definately think thats a solder joint. A bit strange to do that. I've used sharkbite connectors before, but havent heard of sharkbyte with frost free hose bib. Are those straightforward to get at Home Depot or similar?

Yes available at any big box, plumbing or hardware store.

Call first for availability.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBi...-Siphon-Frost-Free-Sillcock-24636LF/301969182

 

[jmon]

Thanks! Right, so you definately think thats a solder joint. A bit strange to do that. I've used sharkbite connectors before, but havent heard of sharkbyte with frost free hose bib. Are those straightforward to get at Home Depot or similar?

You could try finding a rebuild kit for it. Looks kind of old, don't know if a universal kit would work on that one. It looks like it can come apart. You would need two wrenches. Take everything with you to a plumbing, hardware, or big box store and try to match it up. You may get lucky and save some time and money.

Just another suggestion. i don't know for sure if it will come apart, but looks like it does.

 

[jmon]

Thanks! Right, so you definately think thats a solder joint. A bit strange to do that. I've used sharkbite connectors before, but havent heard of sharkbyte with frost free hose bib. Are those straightforward to get at Home Depot or similar?

That's what it looks like to me. Wait for a few other members to chime in and see what they think.

Hope you get it figured out and fixed soon whitecraw

 

[Oso954]

but havent heard of sharkbyte with frost free hose bib.

Where is the frost free bib coming from ? Your photo doesn’t show one.
It would look similar to the one below, and the connection point would be on the inside of the house.

 

[whitecraw]

Thanks for your replies! The water pipe going outside (with shut off valve) is not directly behind the spigot, the copper piping is rerouted up and over to reach the spigot. So I'm thinking I'll probably need to cut the pipe on the inside of the house just after the shut off, then sharkbite connect to a 1/2" flex connector which would be attached to a new frost free bib inserted from the outside (non-sharkbite would be fine I think) Does that make sense?

 

[bruceb3]

The main reason I only use SharkBytes temporarily is because the fittings can be spun after connecting. You dont want the spigot to be able to turn on the pipe.
I would unsweat that boiler drain, solder a 1/2" female adapter onto the protruding pipe and screw a new quarter turn boiler drain into it. That way, if the boiler valve ever screws up, you just unscrew it and screw another one on.

 

[bruceb3]

You wont be able to rebuild the valve that's there. The stem splines are worn off.

 

[TheEplumber]

Thanks for your replies! The water pipe going outside (with shut off valve) is not directly behind the spigot, the copper piping is rerouted up and over to reach the spigot. So I'm thinking I'll probably need to cut the pipe on the inside of the house just after the shut off, then sharkbite connect to a 1/2" flex connector which would be attached to a new frost free bib inserted from the outside (non-sharkbite would be fine I think) Does that make sense?

Do not use a flex connector. If anything, use pex and sharkbites. It'll probably be cheaper than a flex- and safer over time. rubber seals in flexes can fail or the flex can rupture.

BTW, your existing bib has male threads for threaded assembly or female solder joint for copper pipe. We did it like this for years.... nothing unusual.

 

[jmon]

Thanks for your replies! The water pipe going outside (with shut off valve) is not directly behind the spigot, the copper piping is rerouted up and over to reach the spigot. So I'm thinking I'll probably need to cut the pipe on the inside of the house just after the shut off, then sharkbite connect to a 1/2" flex connector which would be attached to a new frost free bib inserted from the outside (non-sharkbite would be fine I think) Does that make sense?

Yes!!. Sounds good. Just cut the copper pipe add 1/2 in sharkbyte female connector, (availbale at any box store) then a regular 1/2 inch male threaded frost free hose bib. no flex connector needed if you reroute the piping straight from shut off if that would work. done. ezpz123z.

Many ways to do it. Just a suggestion. Up to you.

https://mobileimages.lowes.com/product/converted/697285/697285503403.jpg?size=pdhi

 

[bob22]

Pair of vice grips will turn that stem for a few years. Just an alternative.

 

[SeniorSitizen]

If the guts to the valve weren't removed when it was silver soldered onto the copper the odds are it has been screwed up since new and everything including the knob and stem has gone to hell in a hand basket since then. And of coarse forcing it off tighter should have made it work more better.:vs_laugh: