[n00binat0r]

Hey all,

My outside faucet doesn't leak when turned off but it gushes water all behind the handle and plastic ring when turned on. I watched videos on how to replace the washers inside and/or tighten the nut but I think I want to just replace the whole part where the handle/stem attaches to the rest of the assembly. Like she did in this post: https://www.uglyducklinghouse.com/how-to-fix-leaking-outdoor-faucet/

Here is a pic of mine:

A) What is the name of the piece i need to replace? Valve handle and stem? Can I order one online as long as I know if its 1/2" or 3/4"? To determine that, do I just measure the opening?

B) I have tried loosening the nut but have been unsuccessful and am not 100% sure on which way to turn it tbh. There is writing on it that says "Left Hand Threaded", but when I tried turning it both ways, it started turning the main assembly at the brick which is no good, so I am looking for suggestions on how to loosen and remove the piece. I tried using channel locks on main assembly which helped some but without committing 100% on which way to turn, I decided to wait and ask.

Thanks in advance!

 

[SeniorSitizen]

The odds of finding a exact fit as uglyducking did is very slim. In fact, i'd have better luck putting tooth paste back in the tube than finding those parts if i had the brand name and part number.. But attached is a pic of what your valve may look similar to internally. Not named is the larger hex nut called a Bonnet Nut. That will need to be un- screwed to remove the internal parts as a unit. You may be able to find a new packing washer and neoprene seat washer at a hardware like ACE or plumbing supply.

 

[huesmann]

The box stores carry a large variety of rubber washers and o-rings. You could disassemble your valve and take the old parts to the store with you to match for replacements.

 

[ktownskier]

You have a Frost-Proof Anti-Siphon Sillcock Probably made by Woodford.

To remove the headnut, turn it clockwise.

The following is from the install instructions:
NOTE: Older faucets with a plastic head nut and handle should be
upgraded with the RK-25 Repair Kit, which will repair most common
problems and upgrade the faucet to the current design. Faucets with a
brass head nut may be repaired with the RK-25 Repair Kit or individual
parts may be replaced per the instructions below.

Here is a link to the install instructions found on Supply House's website.

 

[n00binat0r]

The odds of finding a exact fit as uglyducking did is very slim. In fact, i'd have better luck putting tooth paste back in the tube than finding those parts if i had the brand name and part number.. But attached is a pic of what your valve may look similar to internally. Not named is the larger hex nut called a Bonnet Nut. That will need to be un- screwed to remove the internal parts as a unit. You may be able to find a new packing washer and neoprene seat washer at a hardware like ACE or plumbing supply.

Thanks for the pic SS..hmm really? I was hoping any 1/2 or 3/4 would work to replace the current parts...

 

[n00binat0r]

The box stores carry a large variety of rubber washers and o-rings. You could disassemble your valve and take the old parts to the store with you to match for replacements.

Thanks, I was hoping not to have to go into the store

 

[n00binat0r]

You have a Frost-Proof Anti-Siphon Sillcock Probably made by Woodford.

To remove the headnut, turn it clockwise.

The following is from the install instructions:
NOTE: Older faucets with a plastic head nut and handle should be
upgraded with the RK-25 Repair Kit, which will repair most common
problems and upgrade the faucet to the current design. Faucets with a
brass head nut may be repaired with the RK-25 Repair Kit or individual
parts may be replaced per the instructions below.

Here is a link to the install instructions found on Supply House's website.

Thanks Ktown! So, even if it's not a Woodford, seems like I could maybe follow the same instructions here:

https://www.woodfordmfg.com/woodford/Troubleshooting/25 - 27 Troubleshooting.pdf

Then I can replace that valve/rod/plunger piece with one from woodford? Or does it have to be the same exact manufacture?

Thanks again!

 

[ktownskier]

It is probably a Woodford or less likely a Zurn. I have only seen those 2 make this type of sillcock. But, there are probably others.

Make sure you turn off the water to the sillcock, and try and remove the headnut. If you can loosen it and remove it, compare it to the pictures in the instruction manual. If they match, then order the repair kit.

I find that Supply House is a very good business to order from. I have bought some pumps for my radiant heat system from them.

Another thing to consider is replacing it with one you can find at a big box store or your local hardware store. Just find out where it comes into the house and joins into your plumbing system. See what kind of connection it makes, probably either sweat compression or threaded, and what size pipe it is. And measure how long it is. And then you can determine if you can replace it with your skill set.

 

[n00binat0r]

It is probably a Woodford or less likely a Zurn. I have only seen those 2 make this type of sillcock. But, there are probably others.

Make sure you turn off the water to the sillcock, and try and remove the headnut. If you can loosen it and remove it, compare it to the pictures in the instruction manual. If they match, then order the repair kit.

I find that Supply House is a very good business to order from. I have bought some pumps for my radiant heat system from them.

Another thing to consider is replacing it with one you can find at a big box store or your local hardware store. Just find out where it comes into the house and joins into your plumbing system. See what kind of connection it makes, probably either sweat compression or threaded, and what size pipe it is. And measure how long it is. And then you can determine if you can replace it with your skill set.

Woot, got that sucker out!

Looks like the woodford to me, although I cant find a pic of the Zurn you mentioned:

Funny part is, when I put it back in and tightened the head nut, the leak was not as bad. Instead of trying to to tighten it more to see if it stops completely, (in fear of damaging it), I think I will just order the repair kit from supplyhouse and replace all those parts anyways.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Woodford-RK-25-Model-25-Repair-Kit

Not sure why it doesn't include the rod too, mine looks pretty crusty..

I will let you know how it goes, thanks again!

 

[n00binat0r]

I'm back with an update!

I was able to install the replacement parts just fine. However the black plunger piece that was included in the replacement parts was about 1.5x the size of the old one. I still tried to put it on, but it would not fit inside the pipe diameter. I may see if I can find a smaller one because the old one has a lot of wear and missing bits and pieces. I ended up putting the old plunger back on.

The good news is, no more leak! Except for when i turn the water off it does a little gush of water out of those holes around the head nut but I am assuming that is intended.

Side question: When I hook my hose back up, now its leaking where the hose connects, see short video:

https://imgur.com/ImtgC6E


Do I need to just replace the hose?

Thanks again all!

 

[dj3]

A garden hose needs a washer inside the connecting nut to the hose bibb.. Your garden hose is probably missing it.