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I would remove the white pressure relief valve that is installed right next to the wall. Your water heater should have a pressure relief valve on it so that one in your photo is not really needed. By removing that pressure relief valve, you can install a union coupler in its place. ...snip
Angry,

In another thread, the poster said that his plumber told him that it's code in his area to install a pressure relief valve after the pressure regulator in addition to the pressure relief valve on top on the water heater. If your area has the same code, then don't remove the pressure relief valve shown in your photo, or do replace it with a new one.

It's not code in my area to have a pressure relief valve after the pressure regulator in addition to the one on top of the water heater.

HRG
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Angry,

In another thread, the poster said that his plumber told him that it's code in his area to install a pressure relief valve after the pressure regulator in addition to the pressure relief valve on top on the water heater. If your area has the same code, then don't remove the pressure relief valve shown in your photo, or do replace it with a new one.

It's not code in my area to have a pressure relief valve after the pressure regulator in addition to the one on top of the water heater.

HRG
HRG, you are correct about local code.

Sorry for my absence, I have just gotten around to planning this project. So per your post, I have decided to replace the PRV, ball valve and piping. I had some questions though. Bare in mind, I have no plumbing experience so if this is a job for a professional please stop me.

-What kind of piping do I have right now? Brass or copper? If I replace with copper piping and it's currently brass piping will that matter?
-If copper piping, what type of tubing am I looking to get? Hard type L?
-Besides the piping, PR and ball valve, what are the names of the other parts I'll need? I.e. fittings. I don't know the terminology or names of these parts :(
-What tools would I need going into the project? Blow torch? Solder? Pipe cutter? Teflon tape?
-How exactly do I uninstall the current piping?

Thanks in advance.
 
Your piping is copper, but your pressure regulator and pressure relief valve are threaded on, and the pressure regulator has a union. The only problem will be if your pressure regulator is shorter or longer than the original one, and the ball valve looks like it is sweated on.

Unthread the pressure relief valve from the system. Thread the new one in.

Take the union on the pressure regulator completely apart.

Unthread the pressure regulator and it's union end from the system. Take a measurement of both pressure regulators if they are the same, put it back the same way it came off using teflon tape of course. . . .

If you still want to change that ball valve out, you'll have to get all the water out of the line, and heat it and pull on it with a pair of pliers until it comes off. If you've never soldered before, it might be tricky to get the new one back on.
 
HRG, you are correct about local code.

Sorry for my absence, I have just gotten around to planning this project. So per your post, I have decided to replace the PRV, ball valve and piping. I had some questions though. Bare in mind, I have no plumbing experience so if this is a job for a professional please stop me.

-What kind of piping do I have right now? Brass or copper? If I replace with copper piping and it's currently brass piping will that matter?
-If copper piping, what type of tubing am I looking to get? Hard type L?
-Besides the piping, PR and ball valve, what are the names of the other parts I'll need? I.e. fittings. I don't know the terminology or names of these parts :(
-What tools would I need going into the project? Blow torch? Solder? Pipe cutter? Teflon tape?
-How exactly do I uninstall the current piping?

Thanks in advance.
Alan pretty much hit all of the high points. Here are more things to consider:

1. If you turn the ball valve off and open the hose bib faucet and the highest faucet in your home, does all dripping stop after you wait about 5 minutes? If yes, the ball valve is stopping all water flow. You could leave it in. (Though if I were doing the job I would replace it since it's already 35+ years old and I wouldn't want to replace it later.)

2. Will there be enough room to unscrew the pressure regulator by spinning it in place? The bottom input side has a union coupling (allows removal without spinning the PR) but the top side requires that the PR be rotated to unscrew it off. It's hard to tell from your photos if there is enough clearance to the wall to spin the PR. --- Also, even if there is enough room to spin the PR, since there isn't any play in the piping and there isn't a second union coupling where the pressure relief valve is, I don't see how you will be able to remove the PR. As you unscrew the PR, it will want to move toward the ball valve but that side is unmovable as is the piping above the PR.

3. If you want to replace the ball valve you will have to turn the water from the city off. Do you know where the valve is where the water enters your property? If yes, turn that valve off and open the hose bib faucet in your photos and the highest faucet in your home (leave the ball valve open). Does all dripping stop after you wait about 5 minutes? --- If no, then you won't be able to solder a new ball valve in without special techniques. It's not possible to solder a ball valve in with water leaking out of the pipe. In this case with no plumbing experience, it will be better to hire a plumber.

HRG
 
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