I am relocating and have found a possible house to buy. It was built around 1930 and is 2-1/2 stories. Everything upstairs looks pretty nice and there is a lot of old woodwork, hardwood floors, etc. which make it appealing. It recenty was rewired and re plumbed, has a new roof and repainted outside within the last 5 years, etc. The only issue is the basement.
One wall in the basement had tilted in. A previous owner had this repaired with "Gorilla Posts", and had the wall jacked back to close to square. A structural engineer has signed a document stating that the wall was "stable" but it is ugly and there are other issues in the basement. The walls are some type of old masonry units -- larger than todays concrete blocks and there are marks from lots of leaks. Some of the blocks have slid in a few inches, making me think they have little mortor between them that is still good. The blocks appear to be solid (without cores like modern blocks) and about 12 inches thick.
The house is a steal since no bank will finance a house with such a bad basement. I have the cash to buy without financing. I can afford to get the basement replaced, based on estimates. At the same time I would have the basement floor lowered (or upper floors raised) to increase basement headroom. and add footers and foundations for a much needed attached garage. Starting with a "clean slate" in the basement, I could build in more usable floor space for a "man cave", recreation room, shop, playroom for the grand kids, nice laundry room or whatever.
Please give me opinions on which method is best. These have been proposed by the foundation people and the local building inspector I have talked to:
Option 1 -- Lift the house, create a ramp down to the basement level, tear out the old foundation, dig out deeper footers, pour footers, pour foudation walls, lower house pour new basement floor.
Option 2 -- Since there is space on the lot, move the house entirely off the foundation, build a new foundation, move the house back onto the new foundation. (This is practical since nobody is living there now.)
Option 3 -- Since there is room on the lot, build a new foundation adjacent to the existing foundation, move the house to the new foundation, remove the old foundation and fill. The existing house could be used for a while until the actual "move date". The contactor estimates that there would be "about" two weeks to a month when the house could not be used as the actual house move occurs.
All three methods wind up being within 20% of the same cost, based on initial proposals. While Option 1 requires the smallest amount of house moving services, Option 2 requires the most (since they have to move the house twice). Options 2 and 3 free up the area when the old foundation is removed and new are built -- speeding up the process and reducing labor costs. Option 3 is actually the cheapest, Option 2 second, and Option 1 the most expensive. There are no overhead clearance issues and only a few shrubs near the house that would be in the way of any house move. There are no code issues or asthetic problems associated with moving the house as described in option 3.
One wall in the basement had tilted in. A previous owner had this repaired with "Gorilla Posts", and had the wall jacked back to close to square. A structural engineer has signed a document stating that the wall was "stable" but it is ugly and there are other issues in the basement. The walls are some type of old masonry units -- larger than todays concrete blocks and there are marks from lots of leaks. Some of the blocks have slid in a few inches, making me think they have little mortor between them that is still good. The blocks appear to be solid (without cores like modern blocks) and about 12 inches thick.
The house is a steal since no bank will finance a house with such a bad basement. I have the cash to buy without financing. I can afford to get the basement replaced, based on estimates. At the same time I would have the basement floor lowered (or upper floors raised) to increase basement headroom. and add footers and foundations for a much needed attached garage. Starting with a "clean slate" in the basement, I could build in more usable floor space for a "man cave", recreation room, shop, playroom for the grand kids, nice laundry room or whatever.
Please give me opinions on which method is best. These have been proposed by the foundation people and the local building inspector I have talked to:
Option 1 -- Lift the house, create a ramp down to the basement level, tear out the old foundation, dig out deeper footers, pour footers, pour foudation walls, lower house pour new basement floor.
Option 2 -- Since there is space on the lot, move the house entirely off the foundation, build a new foundation, move the house back onto the new foundation. (This is practical since nobody is living there now.)
Option 3 -- Since there is room on the lot, build a new foundation adjacent to the existing foundation, move the house to the new foundation, remove the old foundation and fill. The existing house could be used for a while until the actual "move date". The contactor estimates that there would be "about" two weeks to a month when the house could not be used as the actual house move occurs.
All three methods wind up being within 20% of the same cost, based on initial proposals. While Option 1 requires the smallest amount of house moving services, Option 2 requires the most (since they have to move the house twice). Options 2 and 3 free up the area when the old foundation is removed and new are built -- speeding up the process and reducing labor costs. Option 3 is actually the cheapest, Option 2 second, and Option 1 the most expensive. There are no overhead clearance issues and only a few shrubs near the house that would be in the way of any house move. There are no code issues or asthetic problems associated with moving the house as described in option 3.