[viper]

I currently have a Senco 601 framer and considered modding the nose for this application but I think the sequential trigger will be an important part as well? I do get double fires from the 601 sometimes and I need precise placement for connectors.

I am wondering if I should consider just buying a connector nailer and if so, which one? I have several hundred connectors to install onto the face of roughly 6x6 lumber so would like to shoot a longer nail.

I am also considering the ammo for this hotrod as well as that becomes a big expense when you have a proprietary gun shooting proprietary ammo. I think I use interchange ammo in my Senco which is paper bound, clip head and runs just fine. I would like a gun that can shoot different length? Or do all these shoot just one length? I think I will need to shoot 10D 3" through the joist for proper double shear nailing. I also have some that the header will be 1.50"

Any thoughts?

I looked at some Sencos but they have 1.5" and 2.5" I think. Not much!

 

[joecaption]

Are you talking about a joist hanger nailer?
There made to only shoot hanger nails, nothing else.
http://www.nailgundepot.com/metal-connector-nailers-products.html
If your just a DIY and never going to need the gun again it can be done with a palm nailer a whole lot cheaper.
http://www.homedepot.com/s/palm%20nailer?NCNI-5

 

[viper]

I've got about 500 hangers to install. I won't settle for less than a good hanger nailer.

 

[carpdad]

Last time I checked, Bostitch had the best review. Hanger nails are rated for shear strengths, not its lengths. When I was apprentice, i think we were given 8d nails for the hangers.

 

[viper]

I am an engineer and designed a structure using LUS26 and LUS28 hangers. These hangers must use 10d nails to meet rated loads per instructions, which are 3". I am not finding that size very common in hanger nailers?

 

[Mingledtrash]

I am an engineer and designed a structure using LUS26 and LUS28 hangers. These hangers must use 10d nails to meet rated loads per instructions, which are 3". I am not finding that size very common in hanger nailers?

You should go out to 10 different jobsites and ask what they use to shoot on the lus26 and lus28 and then take a selfie so we can see the look on your face when they tell you they use 1 1/2"-2 1/2 x .148 :devil3:

 

[viper]

You should go out to 10 different jobsites and ask what they use to shoot on the lus26 and lus28 and then take a selfie so we can see the look on your face when they tell you they use 1 1/2"-2 1/2 x .148 :devil3:

I have no doubt people deviate from design criteria. The primary reason structures fall apart and people get hurt. :surprise: What I am trying to protect against is tension loading which relies on the withdraw strength of the nail. Hangers are not designed for it but is a primary reason for hanger connection failures. I am sure there are work arounds but I have no reason to shoot a shorter nail in my assembly.

 

[Mingledtrash]

I have no doubt people deviate from design criteria. The primary reason structures fall apart and people get hurt. :surprise: What I am trying to protect against is tension loading which relies on the withdraw strength of the nail. Hangers are not designed for it but is a primary reason for hanger connection failures. I am sure there are work arounds but I have no reason to shoot a shorter nail in my assembly.

I dont understand engineering so tension loading..right over my head:vs_worry:i just build stuff using directions givin to me.:biggrin2:
I am not saying you should deviate from what you need. What i am trying to get at is that the industry is tooled a certain way and you are deviating from that so you will have to build your own connector nailer and get custom heat treated 3" nails built. they only make connector nailers that shoot 1 1/2" or 2 1/2" nails and only make nails in those sizes. any connector that needs more pull out strength than that will be using sd or sds screws. The easiest solution to your problems would be to switch from a lus26 to a hus26 hanger which has more nails.

If you are talking about the cross nails through the joist like in the below pic we just use our standard hitachi nr 83 old style(they licensed this style to amiga tools now its called the amigo) we take the spring out of the safety(dont let osha catch you) and it has a spot by the trigger you can hold the safety back so you can line the barrel up with the holes. it still takes some practice but with how bad it hurts to get frapped with a ricochet you learn fast.(Alway wear your safety glasses.)

http://www.amigotools.com/AmigoSpecSheet.htm

 

[woodworkbykirk]

in my experience if longer hanger nails are used a palm nailer is used or we switch to long hanger screws and use a impact driver

 

[carpdad]

If the design has parts that want to pull away, should you continue to use regular framing connectors? With 500 connectors, what wants to pull away? Is this a wrap around varanda or porch? How long are the joists?