Options for insulating

Where are you located?
What is the usage of the room?
What type of heat/cooling?
What is the insulation in the ceiling - type and R value?
Budget?
How long will you live in the house?
What type of windows (aka holes in the wall...), R value?

Lots of factors to consider to come to an answer...

vsheetz said:

Where are you located?
What is the usage of the room?
What type of heat/cooling?
What is the insulation in the ceiling - type and R value?
Budget?
How long will you live in the house?
What type of windows (aka holes in the wall...), R value?

Lots of factors to consider to come to an answer...

Click to expand...

Washington state, room to be used as a Rec room or additional bedroom, heating is forced air, I believe fiberglass r-13 in ceiling, budget? depends on value received, not sure how long I will live in house, windows are old, but are south facing with large trees in front! Hope that helps!

No House Wrap.....?

After Katrina, many of the homes looked like this picture. a 2 inch average of Closed Cell 1.8 (or 2.0) pound is what you need. DO NOT use .5 (half Pound) you need a vapor "Diffusor" like house wrap. Since you are retro fitting an old garage or something, you just need closed cell, cost more than the .5 pound foam but it is the correct way to build. The foam will fill every crack so you will need to manage that aspect of the Spraying. The size of the cracks can let foam "spray" the "car" on the other side of the wall so filling over a hole with tape and the proper plastic will leave you with a paintable surface of foam. if you are in a Climate Zone 7 you could go up to 2.5 inch "average" of closed cell, but it cost more...

Is spraying the foam a DIY project? Anybody with experience with the DIY spray foam packs care to chime in?

JRP_24 said:

Is spraying the foam a DIY project? Anybody with experience with the DIY spray foam packs care to chime in?

Click to expand...

You can DIY with tiger foam and a couple other brands out there. The most difficult part is prep and then applying the foam. Make sure that your surfaces are very clean and any water leaks are fixed. I found that it was fairly hard to get an even layer of foam if it is not something you do a lot. I think using the kit can be a pita for the rim joist. For something like you show in your pic, it would not be too bad. Just follow the directions for the spray foam and you are all set.

There was an article in Fine Homebuilding a couple months ago about doing flash and batt, where you spray foam a thin layer (like an inch) and then put FG over it. It is a hybrid approach and may work for your climate. Talk to some others in your area and ask their opinion.

R-38 for cathedral ceiling, R-49 otherwise, pp.55 or 56 (depends on where in WA): http://www.energy.wsu.edu/Documents/2009%20WSEC%20Chapters%201-10.pdf

Gary

Not sure where cathedral ceilings come into play...

I gave you that in answer to this: "Washington state, room to be used as a Rec room or additional bedroom, heating is forced air, I believe fiberglass r-13 in ceiling,". R-13 in ceiling is usually a sloped (cathedral) ceiling in an attic where the rafters are minimal for the insulation required. Just showing our State Code requirement for both ceiling types as the one picture omits the roof. I do see a beam that could support a loft floor with rake ceiling above.....

Gary

If you are doing it yourself put unfaced R 15 in the studded walls and one inch foil iso board in the padded out concrete areas, then half inch foil iso board over the whole thing. It is DIY friendly, less expensive and gives you a thermal break between the studs and drywall.

I'm a little hesitant to put fiberglass directly against outside wall as there is no house wrap. I can actually see light from the outside in a couple spots. I've got the concrete covered up with 2" xps rigid foam but I am still stumped on the wall cavities. Would .5 to 1" rigid foam ( great stuff to fill voids) and then some fiberglass be ok? I know probably the r-value may not be to code but I am more concerned with mold issues.

Alright, just decided to put in faced fiberglass, thanks for the responses!

I would think that you would want to air seal this wall the best you can before putting up the FG. Great stuff may work ok but you will need to go back and trim it so that when you do put up FG, it does not create air voids/irregularities. Could also use caulk and backer material if need be. Make it as air tight as possible.