Never heard of onyx walls. How big do they come? What covers the seams?Has anyone ever remodeled a shower stall with these two materials? I'm considering using the Onyx walls and shower base simply due to ease of maintenance. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
And as I mentioned I don't necessarily have a problem with green board but what gets my attention (worries me) is the penetrations where the plumbing comes through the panels. That is really the only wall that needs something other than green board. Things can move with people grabbing them everyday and over time I worry about small leaks developing behind the panel. Not in the plumbing but coming from the showering process.Just want to add, my cultured marble/onyx manufacturer recommends greenboard...
Thanks for replying to my post.They are usually custom-made and come almost any manageable size you wish. The seams get silicone.
Even after custom manufacturing they still require some fitting on sit at final placement. You shouldn't have to cut them but they may require some sanding, usually with a belt-sander. They can be heavy and cumbersome but not that difficult to install. The only cutting required is for the porting for valves and supply pipes.
I don't know what your supplier is recommending for the substrate material but I would suggest Denshield over Hardi or any of the cement boards. Regular cement boards and the fiber-cement boards (Hardi being one of them) are very dusty by nature. Silicone (adhesive) doesn't like dust when it comes to holding power. Whereas Denshield has a surface coating that is not dusty and can be cleaned prior to installation of the shower panels.
Technically moisture resistant drywall can be used but that scares me a little.
If the Dens Shield will work for tile or Onyx, then shoot, I'll take the Hardie back.Using Hardi then, using primer on it would probably be a good idea. Doesn't matter to me what you use but it seams to me that the Denshield comes ready-made for such an application.
Have a good weekend.
Yow I know, I could only find twelve suppliers in your area and that was using only one Zip Code. St. Louis has about forty Zip Codes so God only knows where you are going to find it.It seems that I'm out of luck on finding this material locally through any retailers.
dsconstructs,Just want to add, my cultured marble/onyx manufacturer recommends greenboard (treated sheetrock). Don't think you could go wrong with Bud's advice either just not sure it's really needed behind those cultured onyx panels.......it's not like grouted tile.
Mostly wanted to be sure to tell you in that regard, whatever you use.....prime it white because the onyx is somewhat translucent and you'll see all the shadowing through it otherwise. I've installed the vanity tops with underlighting that looked pretty cool.
Working with the stuff other than the weight of some of the larger panels is relatively easy. Cuts with a masonry blade in a circular saw, belt sands REALLY easy for straightening up cuts, final adjustments for tighter fitting edges and can be cut through for plumbing with a rotozip or carbide holesaw. Never cut/sand an edge that will be exposed. And they usually have an assortment of trim available to help finish off outside edges and for inside corners as well that make life even easier. Most times I just use dap under the exposed edges after the silicone holding the panels has set/next day. Silicone silver dollar size "blobs" about every 12" horizontal and vertical on the backside of the panels to glue them in place.
Be sure to cut it upside down on a non scratch surface or tape the table on your blade so you don't scratch the gelcoat finish. Oh and keep the panel fully supported when cutting it, if it flexes too much it will break......yes, I've broke one before using just sawhorses a little too spread out :whistling2: but that was a LONG time ago and I've installed a lot of this material.
Corner combo soap/shampoo holders give your biggest bang for the buck IMO.
If the pan doesn't sit level on it's own set it in a bed of mortar and level it out that way before proceeding, don't just shim certain areas thinking it's stout enough on it's own not to eventually warp or crack.
Gotta add......where a mask, very fine dust will get everywhere when cutting/grinding.
Ah-Ha!For painting the walls prior to the onyx going on because it's translucent and may otherwise see shadowing behind it.