[MOsteve]

Has anyone ever remodeled a shower stall with these two materials? I'm considering using the Onyx walls and shower base simply due to ease of maintenance. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Ron6519]

Has anyone ever remodeled a shower stall with these two materials? I'm considering using the Onyx walls and shower base simply due to ease of maintenance. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Never heard of onyx walls. How big do they come? What covers the seams?

 

[Bud Cline]

They are usually custom-made and come almost any manageable size you wish. The seams get silicone.

Even after custom manufacturing they still require some fitting on sit at final placement. You shouldn't have to cut them but they may require some sanding, usually with a belt-sander. They can be heavy and cumbersome but not that difficult to install. The only cutting required is for the porting for valves and supply pipes.

I don't know what your supplier is recommending for the substrate material but I would suggest Denshield over Hardi or any of the cement boards. Regular cement boards and the fiber-cement boards (Hardi being one of them) are very dusty by nature. Silicone (adhesive) doesn't like dust when it comes to holding power. Whereas Denshield has a surface coating that is not dusty and can be cleaned prior to installation of the shower panels.

Technically moisture resistant drywall can be used but that scares me a little.

 

[dsconstructs]

Just want to add, my cultured marble/onyx manufacturer recommends greenboard (treated sheetrock). Don't think you could go wrong with Bud's advice either just not sure it's really needed behind those cultured onyx panels.......it's not like grouted tile.
Mostly wanted to be sure to tell you in that regard, whatever you use.....prime it white because the onyx is somewhat translucent and you'll see all the shadowing through it otherwise. I've installed the vanity tops with underlighting that looked pretty cool.

Working with the stuff other than the weight of some of the larger panels is relatively easy. Cuts with a masonry blade in a circular saw, belt sands REALLY easy for straightening up cuts, final adjustments for tighter fitting edges and can be cut through for plumbing with a rotozip or carbide holesaw. Never cut/sand an edge that will be exposed. And they usually have an assortment of trim available to help finish off outside edges and for inside corners as well that make life even easier. Most times I just use dap under the exposed edges after the silicone holding the panels has set/next day. Silicone silver dollar size "blobs" about every 12" horizontal and vertical on the backside of the panels to glue them in place.

Be sure to cut it upside down on a non scratch surface or tape the table on your blade so you don't scratch the gelcoat finish. Oh and keep the panel fully supported when cutting it, if it flexes too much it will break......yes, I've broke one before using just sawhorses a little too spread out :whistling2: but that was a LONG time ago and I've installed a lot of this material.

Corner combo soap/shampoo holders give your biggest bang for the buck IMO.


If the pan doesn't sit level on it's own set it in a bed of mortar and level it out that way before proceeding, don't just shim certain areas thinking it's stout enough on it's own not to eventually warp or crack.

Gotta add......where a mask, very fine dust will get everywhere when cutting/grinding.

 

[Bud Cline]

Just want to add, my cultured marble/onyx manufacturer recommends greenboard...

And as I mentioned I don't necessarily have a problem with green board but what gets my attention (worries me) is the penetrations where the plumbing comes through the panels. That is really the only wall that needs something other than green board. Things can move with people grabbing them everyday and over time I worry about small leaks developing behind the panel. Not in the plumbing but coming from the showering process.

 

[dsconstructs]

Understandable Bud :thumbsup:

 

[MOsteve]

They are usually custom-made and come almost any manageable size you wish. The seams get silicone.

Even after custom manufacturing they still require some fitting on sit at final placement. You shouldn't have to cut them but they may require some sanding, usually with a belt-sander. They can be heavy and cumbersome but not that difficult to install. The only cutting required is for the porting for valves and supply pipes.

I don't know what your supplier is recommending for the substrate material but I would suggest Denshield over Hardi or any of the cement boards. Regular cement boards and the fiber-cement boards (Hardi being one of them) are very dusty by nature. Silicone (adhesive) doesn't like dust when it comes to holding power. Whereas Denshield has a surface coating that is not dusty and can be cleaned prior to installation of the shower panels.

Technically moisture resistant drywall can be used but that scares me a little.

Thanks for replying to my post.

I've had quite a few e-mail conversations with the folks at Onyx concerning their product and what they recommend for installation. They no longer recommend "green board" as the substrate, preferring something along the lines of Hardie. The highly recommend wiping down both the backside of the shower panels and the cement bb with a damp cloth before installation. In addition to this, a coat of white primer was recommended (dsconstructs mentioned this as well).

I've committed to Hardie as far as purchasing it already but that's it.

I don't remember seeing Dens Shield at Lowe's (GP's website listed them as a supplier).

I'm going to have to do some more investigating and ask some more questions before I go any further.

Heading out the door for the Holiday weekend and will be back here to read more and pick some peoples' brains after the weekend...lots of valuable info. to absorb just in these few posts already.

Steve

 

[Bud Cline]

Using Hardi then, using primer on it would probably be a good idea. Doesn't matter to me what you use but it seams to me that the Denshield comes ready-made for such an application.

Have a good weekend.

 

[MOsteve]

Using Hardi then, using primer on it would probably be a good idea. Doesn't matter to me what you use but it seams to me that the Denshield comes ready-made for such an application.

Have a good weekend.

If the Dens Shield will work for tile or Onyx, then shoot, I'll take the Hardie back.

I have to find a supplier first that sells retail. Lowe's doesn't seem to carry it.

 

[MOsteve]

It seems that I'm out of luck on finding this material locally through any retailers.

Bud, I came across one of your post on another forum where you weren't too impressed with DS. This goes back to 2005. What has changed that you now like the product?

 

[Bud Cline]

Denshield had issues back then that have since been resolved.:thumbsup:

 

[MOsteve]

Ahhh! I see.

Well, I'm kind of stuck then as to how I should proceed.

I have several issues that are preventing me from really moving forward with this project. The first of which is a substrate that I can't seem to get my hands on. In addition to that, I'm getting a 50/50 mix on the whole vapor barrier vs. no vapor barrier question. It seems that St. Louis has the best of both worlds - very hot and humid in the summer and cold and dry in the winter. So that appears to throw another variable into this equation.

And the list continues to grow as my bank balance continues to shrink. Funny how those two have an inverse relationship.

 

[Bud Cline]

It seems that I'm out of luck on finding this material locally through any retailers.

Yow I know, I could only find twelve suppliers in your area and that was using only one Zip Code. St. Louis has about forty Zip Codes so God only knows where you are going to find it.

WARRIOR BUILDING PRODUCTS INCO
Pro-yard
6363 BARTMER INDUSTRIAL D
SAINT LOUIS, MO 63130

P&A DRYWALL SUPPLY INC
Pro-yard
4200 HORSESHOE LAKE RD
PONTOON BEACH, IL 62040

NEGWER MATL INC
Pro-yard
101 SOUTH 59TH STREET
BELLEVILLE, IL 62223

NEGWER MATERIALS INC
Pro-yard
49 AIRPORT RD
SAINT LOUIS, MO 63135

P&A DRYWALL SUPPLY INC
Pro-yard
2600 ENDICOTT AVE
SAINT LOUIS, MO 63114

MISSOURI DRYWALL SUPPLY
Pro-yard
314 JAMES S MCDONNELL BLVD
HAZELWOOD, MO 63042

LOWES OF SAINT LOUIS #2300
932 LOUGHBOROUGH AVE
SAINT LOUIS, MO 63111

LOWE'S OF MAPLEWOOD, MO
2300 MAPLEWOOD COMMONS DR
MAPLEWOOD, MO 63143
314-450-1000

84 LUMBER CO #0801
3477 HWY 111, RTE 35
GRANITE CITY, IL 62040
This is 8.3 mile(s) from you.

Map This

LOWES - FLORISSANT #748
3180 NORTH HIGHWAY 67
FLORISSANT, MO 63033
314-972-8817

LOWES - ST LOUIS #764
1212 SOUTH KIRKWOOD ROAD
KIRKWOOD, MO 63122
314-835-1779

LOWE'S OF GLEN CARBON, IL
159 WHISTLE STOP DRIVE
GLEN CARBON, IL 62034
618-655-2140

 

[MOsteve]

Ahhh! But Lowe's no longer carries it (called 3 stores and got the, "Uh, what's it called again?" reply) and all of the remaining suppliers keep hours that make it impossible for me to stop in and buy (ie. no Saturdays and 7-4 M-F, the same time I work).

I'm thinking a hose, a bucket, and a sheet of plastic is the direction I'm headed. Can't wait for winter.:thumbup:

 

[MOsteve]

Just want to add, my cultured marble/onyx manufacturer recommends greenboard (treated sheetrock). Don't think you could go wrong with Bud's advice either just not sure it's really needed behind those cultured onyx panels.......it's not like grouted tile.
Mostly wanted to be sure to tell you in that regard, whatever you use.....prime it white because the onyx is somewhat translucent and you'll see all the shadowing through it otherwise. I've installed the vanity tops with underlighting that looked pretty cool.

Working with the stuff other than the weight of some of the larger panels is relatively easy. Cuts with a masonry blade in a circular saw, belt sands REALLY easy for straightening up cuts, final adjustments for tighter fitting edges and can be cut through for plumbing with a rotozip or carbide holesaw. Never cut/sand an edge that will be exposed. And they usually have an assortment of trim available to help finish off outside edges and for inside corners as well that make life even easier. Most times I just use dap under the exposed edges after the silicone holding the panels has set/next day. Silicone silver dollar size "blobs" about every 12" horizontal and vertical on the backside of the panels to glue them in place.

Be sure to cut it upside down on a non scratch surface or tape the table on your blade so you don't scratch the gelcoat finish. Oh and keep the panel fully supported when cutting it, if it flexes too much it will break......yes, I've broke one before using just sawhorses a little too spread out :whistling2: but that was a LONG time ago and I've installed a lot of this material.

Corner combo soap/shampoo holders give your biggest bang for the buck IMO.


If the pan doesn't sit level on it's own set it in a bed of mortar and level it out that way before proceeding, don't just shim certain areas thinking it's stout enough on it's own not to eventually warp or crack.

Gotta add......where a mask, very fine dust will get everywhere when cutting/grinding.

dsconstructs,

Is there a particular primer you would recommend for what I'm going to do - stud/Hardie/Onyx - ?

 

[dsconstructs]

I would probably use coverstain (it's oil based) after making sure you wipe the hardie down to remove any dust.

 

[Bud Cline]

Is there a particular primer you would recommend for what I'm going to do - stud/Hardie/Onyx - ?

Primer for what?

I must have fallen from the ride when we went through that last tunnel.:confused1:

 

[dsconstructs]

Primer for what?

I must have fallen from the ride when we went through that last tunnel.:confused1:

I barely hung on myself :laughing: For painting the walls prior to the onyx going on because it's translucent and may otherwise see shadowing behind it.

 

[Bud Cline]

For painting the walls prior to the onyx going on because it's translucent and may otherwise see shadowing behind it.

Ah-Ha!
Never heard of anyone doing that. If you are sure the onyx will telegraph I suppose you should be using a quality exterior paint that will also be compatible with the adhesive. I suggest you ask the onyx-provider people that question.:yes:

 

[dsconstructs]

Yep, cultured onyx will "telegraph" it is somewhat translucent. I'm sure an exterior paint would work fine also.......As for adhesives, clear silicone usually with onyx for me.