[USAFOkie]

I recently replaced dual sideways switch, one operated the disposal and one operated a light above the sink. The old switch had two black wires, two white wires, and two neutral wires. The neutral wires were twisted together but not connected to the switch. After I connected the new switch now the disposal and light operate at the same time when either of the two switches are turned on. Any suggestions?

 

[Wiredindallas]

I will give it a shot. You say 2 whites on the switch? Perhaps you have 2 switch legs each bringing the hot from the load it switches. If so, you need to break off the tab on 1 side between the screws. Sounds like you are calling the ground wires neutrals.

 

[chetwisner]

If you're calling the bare wires neutrals, that's wrong; they are ground wires and should NOT be attached to the two terminals of the switch. They should be on the Green colored screw on the switch.

 

[USAFOkie]

WiredinDallas...thanks from an Okie! Something so simple yet I completely overlooked it. I can fix an F-15 fighter, a 767 or a 777 but couldn’t figure out to take the tab off. Thanks again!

 

[seharper]

Yes, neutral is NOT ground. Current flows in loops. Neutral is the normal return side of the loop (like the hydraulic return line, but its "pull" is equally important as the hot line's "push".) Because neutral can have "pressure", it's insulated. Ground is more like the drip tray that catches the fluid that has gone awry and routes it to a collection drum.

You correctly surmised that switches don't need neutral but do need a switched-hot. Code requires we make white the always-hot (so you can "always" sense voltage on it with a tester, which clarifies that it is not neutral), and we use black for switched-hot. Since 2000-ish you are supposed to put black tape on white wires used this way. Since 2011 you must also bring actual neutral to the switch to power smart switches, so now you use black for hot and red for switched-hot.