[dougq]

Folks: Last year I replaced a rotted support beam and posts.
I noted one of the joists has some rot. I did not think it was dangerous, and I left it. So now I want to fix it.
I have ample access underneath the deck and I think I should be able to do the repair without lifting any deck boards. There are no deck board joints on this particular joist, another bonus perhaps.
The rot is on the beam end of the joist, and fortunately it is in the middle of the end of the joist, none of the rot is contacting the beam or the 2x6 decking.

I have 2 thoughts on replacing the joist.
Firstly, cutting off about 3' off the 12' overall length of the joist, and scabbing a joist replacement to the remaining portion of the existing joist.
It would however only be supported by the beam on one end and screwed or bolted to the existing joist.

Secondly, totally remove the old joist, and no deck boards.
The house side of the deck has a 2x4 bolted to the foundation which the joists rest on and hangers. I do not see how I could fit in a replacement joist without trimming both ends where is is supported and then shim it when in place.
It seems to me that it would be a physical impossibility to fit it in otherwise.

Any thoughts from those who have been there??

Thanks

Doug

 

[skymaster]

cut a new joist, notch it to fit over the ledger strip, slide it in on an angle, notch already layin over the ledger, beat it in with small sledge and a block of wood till flat against old joist and attach them together.
NOTE: measure the old joist for width, plane new lumber to that dimension b4 sending it home OR notch it to fit over the girder also

 

[dougq]

Thanks for the reply.

Perhaps I have led you astray. The existing joists sit on top of the ledger board, and are also in hangers. I would have to cut out one side of the hanger to get the new beam to butt to it tightly. Not a problem.
How much of a notch? I had thought about an inch and put it back in place once the beam is in place? It also seemed I would need a shim to compensate for the width of the saw cut?

Thanks again.

Doug

cut a new joist, notch it to fit over the ledger strip, slide it in on an angle, notch already layin over the ledger, beat it in with small sledge and a block of wood till flat against old joist and attach them together.
NOTE: measure the old joist for width, plane new lumber to that dimension b4 sending it home OR notch it to fit over the girder also

 

[rwa]

rather than cutting the hanger you could space off the rotted joist with plywood, double it if necessary ... also you might want to put felt paper between any rooted wood that might remain and any new wood

 

[skymaster]

Doug: OK IF I understand clearly the joist is simply hung in a hanger on one end and notched over a ledger on the other end. OK Simply pull the nails out of the hanger, sawzall the nails if any toe'd thru the joist, cut it loose from the ledger, put in a new joist, hanger etc. In overall effort,cost etc I think that would be best way to attack this. IMHO only

 

[Code05]

Glad i saw this post, have similar problems.

 

[dougq]

Skymaster:Here I go again, giving misinformation.
I am assuming the ledger board is the 2x4 attached to the house?
I had a close look underneath the deck and noticed a shim was already in place under the hanger between the hanger and the ledger board.
On the beam end there is no notch, the joist sits on top of the beam and the deck boards sit on it. At the end of the joist on the beam end is a skirt board that attaches to all the joists and also supports the railing.
I am now thinking I can probably fit in a new joist beside the old on the house end without any notching, due to the existing shim.
On the beam end I believe I will have to cut a 1" notch that will be replaced once the joist is in place, or should i just pound it in between the beam and the deck boards??

Thanks
Doug

Doug: OK IF I understand clearly the joist is simply hung in a hanger on one end and notched over a ledger on the other end. OK Simply pull the nails out of the hanger, sawzall the nails if any toe'd thru the joist, cut it loose from the ledger, put in a new joist, hanger etc. In overall effort,cost etc I think that would be best way to attack this. IMHO only

 

[dougq]

It just occurred to me that I should just completely remove the old joist.
My only remaining question is then should I notch the beam end or just pound it in?
Thanks
Doug

 

[skymaster]

Doug: OK yes now I am totally confused :}.
I think we go back to my original post and just forget the notch AGAINST the house!!!!! Ledger sits UNDER the joists right? Then I would pull that hanger, sister the new one the way I first said then once you have gotten it in place replace the old single hanger with a new double hanger.
Then THRUBOLT the two together. 1/2" hex head and big butt washers under the head and the nuts. Stagger the holes, high, low. Stay down at least 1 to 1 1/2" from top and same from bottom.

LOL LOL Doug you posted while I was writing this one :}:} Measure the old joist, then if the new is wider( which is probably is ) then yes notch the new to fit over the beam, again you will have to put it in on an angle and then "persuade" it upright

 

[dougq]

Skymaster, thanks for your input and patience.
Planning a job properly can save a lot at headaches, not to mention time and money.

Doug

 

[skymaster]

LOL LOL I gotcha!!!!!!! You are lurking and NOT working :laughing:
I dont have any work or I would not be lurking either.
Never forget the 6 P Program!!!!!!!!!!
P roper
P lanning
P revents
P I**
P oor
P erformance
:yes::yes::laughing::whistling2:
The best planning takes place on a lake in a bass boat with a cooler full of refreshment of your choice LOL LOL
Jack