[DoctorWho]

Quick question guys. I'm going to be rewiring a 15A circuit in my garage to run 4 rows of lights and a garage opener. My question is whether it's better to use a junction box at each row or one long run and snake it around from row to row? Not sure if that describes it good enough but can't think how else to. I estimate I'd need about 1/3 more cable if I don't use boxes.

These are all plug-in shop lights so I'll just be putting up about 8 or 9 outlets on the rafters. I'll be running 14/3 up until the outlet where the opener is so it can run independent of the light switch, then 14/2 the rest of the way.

One other thing too, sorry to have so many questions, but I'm looking at about 8 amps worth of lighting and the opener draws 5 amps, so I'm looking at a little over 80% load just for the few seconds while the door operates, but will this leave enough for the "jolt" or whatever they call it when the motor first starts up and draws more power?

 

[biggles]

a 100W bulb runs .4A so your good even if its 10 lights plenty of room for the door load.bring the 115V up to the ceiling into one 1900 then over to another.start from the back light and run a length of 14/2 into the 1900 each (5) row of lights. bring the switch up into the box to control each row probably have others kick in on this..might consider having the back 4 switched also for shop work on that bench your going to build out of 2X4s as the table...10 of them mounted on 4x4s makes an awesome place to putz around:thumbsup:

 

[AllanJ]

It's your choice whether to snake one run of cable or use junction boxes. But you need to have a junction box large enough to take the incoming power cable, a receptacle unit, and two or three branches continuing on.

 

[AllanJ]

It's your choice whether to snake one run of cable or use junction boxes. But you need to have a junction box large enough to take the incoming power cable, a receptacle unit, and two or three branches continuing on.

Also, if you use one of the receptacle boxes as a junction box, you need to be sure the box is big enough for the incoming cable, the receptacle unit, and two or three cables continuing on.

 

[biggles]

1-1900 box should take the light run 14/2...switch...115V feed easy if tight just stack another on top with a open base 1900

 

[jbfan]

I would j box the first receptacle.
hot in for opener, hot out to opener, switch wire to first light receptacle.
From first light receptacle, fedd the nex, then the next. etc.

 

[rjniles]

I would not use J boxes, the less connections the better. The price of the additional cable will be offset by fewer boxes.

Make sure your receptacles are GFCI protected, including the one for the GDO. And the GFCI has to be within reach, not on the ceiling.

 

[DoctorWho]

..might consider having the back 4 switched also for shop work on that bench your going to build out of 2X4s as the table...10 of them mounted on 4x4s makes an awesome place to putz around:thumbsup:

lol, no need to build any benches, the previous owner left 3 of them for me! One in particular is amazing, hand built and I can stand on it without so much as a creak or groan from it (and I'm 425 lbs!)

 

[DoctorWho]

Found something interesting today, I was turning off the power to my "15A" breaker when I noticed I was mistaken, it's actually a 20A breaker! So I hopped on the ladder and looked at the incoming wire in the garage and it is indeed a 12 gauge, problem is that he used 14 gauge for all the additional runs in the garage but still used 20A outlets! I had actually already fixed this on another 20A circuit in the same garage, I don't get why this guy would run the correct gauge from the panel to the garage, but then use too small a gauge of wire to all the lights and outlets. I have a nice little mess to clean up.

I'm leaning toward jboxes, gonna tear out all the old stuff tonight and get started installing tomorrow, I'd be more likely consider a straight run if these were power tool outlets or something but except for the opener it's just gonna be lights and maybe one extra outlet just incase I need it. Also the far wall in the garage has junk hanging down from the rafters, makes it a pain to staple the cable down.

Anyways, thanks for the feedback guys, glad it's just a matter of preference which way to go. I am going to have to do this in my other garage too (yes poor me, I have more garages than I know what to do with, don't you feel sorry for me?) I think I will do a straight run in there, since there's no junk hanging from the rafters to get in the way.

 

[biggles]

12G is OK for the lights and the wall sockets chances of you plugging in something that is going to draw 20A is slight to none juat to consider before ripping it out:wink:

 

[DoctorWho]

12G is OK for the lights and the wall sockets chances of you plugging in something that is going to draw 20A is slight to none juat to consider before ripping it out:wink:

no no I'm saying the 12/2 is a good surprise, problem is the 14/2 that he attached to it! but still used 20a outlets so anyone would think it can handle big power tools, the breaker can but not the wiring.
That's how I found out on the other circuit, I could smell the wire melting when I had my compressor cycling over a couple hours!

Other reason I want to rip it all out is he used uninsulated staples and they're pinching hard, even tearing through the outer sheathing in a few places. Plus it looks like a snake's nest up there with his 200 miles of redundant cabling! :laughing: