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I got an ice cream headache from looking at that.
 

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flipping slumlord
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I’m wondering if the pipe in the shape of a square is needed?
Stand back farther and take another picture.

Was thinking of switching to sharkbites
Sharkbites can be great for emergencies.
For planned work it's an expensive way to go.

The most expensive aspect?
Not using the opportunity to learn a useful skill.
 

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It looks like a bypass loop.
It's there so if the water softener or whatever it's connected to is taken off line there would still be water avalible in the house.
There's not all that much difference in price between sweat and Sharkbite.
https://www.homedepot.com/s/3%2F4%20in.%20ball%20valve?NCNI-5
My biggest concern would be how much space is needed between the two pipes to install the new valve.
To get this apart your going to already need a torch, your still going to have to heat up the pipe to wipe off all the old solder, still going to have to clean off the pipe, so the only thing you would be saving having to do is soldering on a new valve.
I agree if this was mine I'd be soldering in new valves.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I got an ice cream headache from looking at that.
I will sweat the connections for the square and probably use sharkbites for under the sink.
I guess my main question is the purpose of the square. I’m not a plumber and wasn’t sure if it served a purpose. There is actually a second square just for the water softener. So this main square is really unneeded. I’ll put in a better system that makes more sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I got an ice cream headache from looking at that.
I’m wondering if the pipe in the shape of a square is needed?
Stand back farther and take another picture.


Was thinking of switching to sharkbites
Sharkbites can be great for emergencies.
For planned work it's an expensive way to go.

The most expensive aspect?
Not using the opportunity to learn a useful skill.
Here’s a new pic
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I got an ice cream headache from looking at that.
I’m wondering if the pipe in the shape of a square is needed?
Stand back farther and take another picture.


Was thinking of switching to sharkbites
Sharkbites can be great for emergencies.
For planned work it's an expensive way to go.

The most expensive aspect?
Not using the opportunity to learn a useful skill.
Here’s a new pic
And one of the softener. Thanks
 

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I would rip it all out and do it with PEX and ball valves. If it needs a bypass, so be it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I would rip it all out and do it with PEX and ball valves. If it needs a bypass, so be it.
I’m thinking it’s time to call a plumber and get it done properly. I could do it but won’t be sure what’s the best way to do it. So yes if the plumber recommended to go to pep do I do that or tell him to keep the copper? Thanks
 

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PEX is a fraction of the price of copper and labor is less. All the plumbers I know would use PEX unless you specify and pay for copper, at two or more times the price. The last time I checked 10 feet of copper was $13 and 100 feet of PEX was $28. PEX has been in service for a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
PEX is a fraction of the price of copper and labor is less. All the plumbers I know would use PEX unless you specify and pay for copper, at two or more times the price. The last time I checked 10 feet of copper was $13 and 100 feet of PEX was $28. PEX has been in service for a long time.
I’m thinking of converting everything to pex. Even the 3/4 to water softener and water heater. Anyone think this is a dumb idea? Or best to go all pec and drop the copper. Thx
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Click on image to enlarge.
So the 3/4 from the well to the softener and the water heater should stay copper?

The 1/2 coming off the square is a line that feeds to 2 outdoor taps.

The reason I’m asking for opinions is this was all done in 1983. All of the shut offs and every under the sink shutoff and even the 2 laundry ones are corroded and must be replaced. Just wanting to do it once and do it right.
 

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Doesn't look corroded to me. There is a little oxidation on the exterior but that has nothing to do with its interior.

Someone went to a lot of work to give you the ultimate in flexibility in your water system. You want it to look pretty, get some 220 , then some steal wool and polish it. Spray with lacquer and you will have a piece of art work. Be there when you are 6 foot under.

Replace any missing or broken handles, replace the washers in any leaking valves and tighten the bonnet nut around any leaking valve stems.
 

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2x on hkshroud's post. Did you try fixing the existing valves? Mine is probably replumbed in 1970s or 80s, and all of them looked very corroded but the handles moved just with hand or when the bonnet nut was loosened. It may have rubber washer that may come apart when you remove it, but it can be packed again with teflon thread. It could be similar to removing rusted car bolts, small back and forth movements. Stem has fairly large threads that are easier to unthread. You may have to look for washer screws and see if the seat is still smooth.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Doesn't look corroded to me. There is a little oxidation on the exterior but that has nothing to do with its interior.

Someone went to a lot of work to give you the ultimate in flexibility in your water system. You want it to look pretty, get some 220 , then some steal wool and polish it. Spray with lacquer and you will have a piece of art work. Be there when you are 6 foot under.

Replace any missing or broken handles, replace the washers in any leaking valves and tighten the bonnet nut around any leaking valve stems.
I actually never considered doing that. I was thinking of redoing it but just replacing the valves is the easiest. I appreciate the advice
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Doesn't look corroded to me. There is a little oxidation on the exterior but that has nothing to do with its interior.

Someone went to a lot of work to give you the ultimate in flexibility in your water system. You want it to look pretty, get some 220 , then some steal wool and polish it. Spray with lacquer and you will have a piece of art work. Be there when you are 6 foot under.

Replace any missing or broken handles, replace the washers in any leaking valves and tighten the bonnet nut around any leaking valve stems.
Thanks for the suggestion. I was in the tear it out mindset. Replacing the valves is the easiest idea!
 
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