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Woah, looks messy, I'd tighty that up, fix the conduit issue on the bottom and whatever that white thing could be on the upper right, swap the 60 amp furnace breaker out with a 45, put a ground bus in there, bond it to the frame, move the neutral bar insulate it from the panel, move the grounds to the new bus. Check wire guages, tighten connections, check branch circuits.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I completely understand now what a noncompliant electrician the person that wired the sub panel was/is, however, I am sure that this forum is not about abasement but rather knowledge sharing. The electrician that did the sub panel wiring did it about 1 1/2 yrs ago and is no longer available. SOoo to the problems:
1- it seems the fitting in the top rt corner of the panel is not correct,
2- the supply line conduit is only run into the box with no fastener
3- the grounding is not correct: ground and common run on common buss
4- the wire size for the furnase is 10/3 w gnd. OK
5- the breaker for the furnace is 30amp OK
6- the wire size feeding the sub panel is 6/3 w gnd OK
7- the breaker in the main panel box for the sub panel feeder is 50 amp OK

My question is ... as a DIY'er what are the obvious steps I need to take to bring this sub panel up to conformity. Every thing has been working for the past 1 1/2 yrs. But NOW, trying to wire the furnace has shown the short cuts or flaws, etc that were taken ... the reason for this thread was to find out why I don't seem to be getting 220 to the furnace and why when my son happend to touch the heating coil he got a good shock.

I am very appreciative of the comments

Jessccs
 

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My question is ... as a DIY'er what are the obvious steps I need to take to bring this sub panel up to conformity. Every thing has been working for the past 1 1/2 yrs.
Everything has been working, but that doesn't mean that it is safe. Actually, quite the opposite...So you're right to want to get it taken care of. The neutral/ground issue is HIGHLY UNSAFE.

Ok, kill the feeder breaker in the main panel to make the subpanel totally safe. Tackle one thing at a time, and don't take it all apart at once. The conduit issues are incorrect, but won't cause a fire or hazard like the neutral or bonding issues could.

I'd focus on getting the neutrals and grounds separated first. Land all the neutrals by themselves on the bar they're on. Land all the grounds on the ground bar on the top left. There's no specific order for the grounds/neutrals, just land them all on their respective bars. Remove the bonding screw I described earlier from the neutral bar and throw it away.

Get the correct size breaker on that furnace (35 minimum according to your posted specs). For the 10/3 wire, as rgsgww said, you're limited to 30 amps. For that circuit, larger wire will be needed or you're asking for a fire.

Wherever possible, correct the workmanship issues with the conduit while you're in there. Appropriate fittings and materials can be bought at any box store or supply house.
 

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You have run a 120/240 branch circuit to the furnace. The specs posted do not show a need for this. But you say the furnace had a 4 wire Pigtail?? If only 240 volts is required for the furnace. No neutral is needed. So where is the neutral connected to at the furnace?? MY guess is you have a miswire at the furnace with only 120 volts getting to the heating element...

You need a 8 awg copper cable (8/2 with ground no neutral if only 240 volts) for the furnace branch circuit. 10 awg cable (romax, SER etc..) is only good for 30 amps and 30 amp breaker. The heater is a continuous load so the branch circuit must be 125% of the continuous load plus any additional load like the fan. So 1.25 x 27 plus 1.5 = 35 amps minimum branch circuit ampacity. 8 awg copper required. Put this on a 40 amp breaker.

Can you get us a picture posted for the furnace terminal block or the wiring diagram??

Your subpanel is a mess as mentioned. The bonding screw for that type panel is installed in the slot above the screw that looks like a rivet next to the neutral lug. It appears to be not installed...leave it that way. Move all the grounds (bares) to the ground bar in the upper left of the panel. Leave all the whites in individual terminations on the neutral bar.

Then of course all the other stuff mentioned.
 

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Jessccs - Your posts didn't say you only used 10AWG to the furnace, or I wouldn't have suggested the 45A breaker. You only mentioned that the furnace had #10 pigtails...my fault for assuming...

I agree with stubbie - there might be a miswire at your furnace.

I notice that in your wiring diagram, Figure 7, one incoming line L1 ends up being connected to a BLACK, PURPLE, and another BLACK wire. The second line L2 ends up being connected to a BLACK and a RED wire.

If the neutral wasn't used (it shouldn't have been) and you did in fact use the two hots, you probably have the two hots connected to the furnace using wirenuts. And since you say there is a pigtail, it is possible that they are miswired - if, for example, it was hooked up with all the blacks on one line, that is incorrect for your furnace.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Iwould like to thank all of you for your input .. I followed your instructions and I am proud to say everything works like it should. Made the necessary changes you all suggested :thumbup:

I must say " I am not smarter than a seasoned electrician" !!!!

Jessccs
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
:( Hey Williswires,

I regretfully must admit .. Everything isn't working right at all, at least it does not appear to be. The furnace works, well somewhat, when I turn up the thermostat the furnace blower, after a couple of seconds comes on but it IS NOT blowing even slightly warm air. Looking at the coils, at one end of the coil pack on the first insulator there is a red glow it is about 3/4" long and then the rest of the pack doesn't seem to be getting hot at all. Could I have in some way damaged the coils during installation?
I bought the furnace from a guy that was heating his shop with it .. he installed a hot water wood furnace .. and he told me that it worked very well for him .. Could he have had it wired to the power source differently than I have??

My daughter takes the pictures for me and she was out of town for the week ende.
 

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Not sure what's going on with your furnace. Could be a bad thermostat, or the furnace could have broken parts or have been modified by the previous owner.
 

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You need to be careful with sequencers. For example two sequencers would mean one would be first on last off and the second would be last on first off. Plus one of them controls the fan. You need to check them on a call for heat. You also need to check voltage at the elements should have 240 volts across T1 and T2 and L1 and L2.

To test a sequencer remove the wires except those from the 24 volt transformer unless you have a line voltage sequencer. It will look like this..Sequencers are delayed so hold your tester for the appropriate time to see when they close. You can also do live voltage checks with the wires attached

 
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