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Discussion Starter #1
Thanks again to everyone who helped with my basement issues. The first floor now has no bounce to its floors.

Now, I'm working on the master bedroom in this 100 year old house (see picture).



I tore out some drywall on both sides so that I can build drawers in between the studs to make better use of the space behind the walls. It's angles because that's the other roof line (I believe the walls are load bearing and didn't want to mess with it).



Anyways, I tore it down to the sub-floor because there was a considerable hump in the back left of the floor about one foot in from the wall. Over an 8 foot span from the left wall towards the right wall the floor drops 1.5", something I am considering unacceptable right now.



The joists are also a little weird. Most of the room has joists spanning from the door towards the window. At the window, however, there are a couple joists spanning from the side walls towards the middle. This bedroom is a little larger than 12' x 12' and all joists span 16.5" on center.

The really interesting thing is that the joists that are coming in from the side walls don't span from wall to wall and seem to be connected side to side in the area that is bowing upwards. (see picture) They are only connected for about 6" I would say. It's hard to see 2 joists but they are there.



Lastly, my side walls in this bedroom do support a small alcove roof. Would the weight on the side walls be causing the 2 joists to push up in the middle of the room?



I want to level, or flatten, my floor but am unsure of the best way to do this. Especially considering the joist situation. Laying another subfloor on top isn't appealing because of the need to more registers and such all higher. Also, shaving down the joists I'm unsure about because of how much would need to be shaved off.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Amendment

So, after examining the 1st floor I've realized that the joists spanning parallel with the windows actually rest on the wall in front of the fireplace in this picture. So, there is no joist / weight bearing issue.

 

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I love the style of your home, or part of the country are you located in?

Without looking closer at your situation it certainly sounds like the easiest method of leveling the floor would be to remove the subfloor and shave down the joists as you mentioned. It shouldn't be too bad to flatten them out using either a power plane or even a belt sander with a very coarse belt. You can then reinstall the subfloor and a new layer of plywood on top of that.
 

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ya, that's how i would do it. then you're not really messing wiht how the house settled over time or why you have that hump in the first place. you're just sorta adjusting to it (like the 1.5 inch "shim" i have under my vanity sink to keep it level)
 

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Thanks guys.

I'm in Des Moines, IA.

This won't compromise the integrity of the joists will it? If I lay plywood over top would 3/8" be fine?
 

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Re the wall in front of the fire place. What do you see when you put a level on the ceiling, the header, and the floor. Does the slope above transfer to any of these areas
 

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This won't compromise the integrity of the joists will it? If I lay plywood over top would 3/8" be fine?

3/8 ply is not strong enough to stay flat on its own. It will eventually conform to any warping or cupping in the pine boards. If you are taking up the pine boards to plane the joist, why not just lay down new 3/4 or 1" subfloor sheathing.

Subfloor thickness recommendations vary pending what the finish floor mat'l is going to be.


If you plane off a 1 1/2" from a joist you are essentially downsizing the joist by 1 increment. You could sister a 2 x 6 (or deepest possible) to reinforce.

Power plane's work great! Be sure to pull EVERY SINGLE NAIL! Even check with a metal detector if you can get a hold of one.


Good Luck with the remodel,
 

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Thanks guys.

I'm in Des Moines, IA.

This won't compromise the integrity of the joists will it? If I lay plywood over top would 3/8" be fine?
Unless those joists flex when you jump up and down in the room how they are now you shouldn't have any problems. Old lumber like that is much stronger than the stuff you can buy now days! What type of material was on top of that subflooring originally? 3/8" is a little thinner than what is normally used but should work, a lot depends on what type of flooring you are to put above.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So it's taken a while. I'm not even a weekend warrior, I'm more of a 1 day a week warrior. I thought I would show you all the progress after a year. I've leveled/flattened all the joists with custom cut shims, added extra bracing between joists and under walls, and laid my sub floor.





Now, I'm in the process of adding the flooring back. Should I use my old wood or buy new? It's 100 year old growth oak that's 3 1/4" by 3/4" and I don't think it's ever been sanded and refinished. But, I'm about 35 sq. feet short because the wood was very dry and when taking it out I irreparably damaged some tongues and grooves. Can new wood be integrated in with the old wood without it looking out of place?
 

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You can try and see how it looks. I have 140 year old wide plank pine and tried to match new flooring to it. Tried every stain. Tried mixing stains. No luck. I would try one of those places that sells reclaimed flooring. They are pricey, but if you're patching in a small area it may be worth it.

I'm going through the same issues with my entire second level...
 

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Might be ok if you are going to sand and finish the flooring when done? Its not likely that the new and old wood will be exactly the same width. If it isn't you might want to do entire rows of either the old or new but don't mix.
 
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