[PUNISHER VETTE]

House is from 1880's and has plenty of issues but just trying to solve this one for now?

3in black standpipe has sewer odor so we capped it for now and ran the washing machine hose over to the utility sink.(just off camera to the left)

Along with the current setup in the picture there's also a shower drain and a floor drain in the concrete....lower than all this...but probably much much older. I have no clue where they enter the septic.

Washing machine would be better if I could build a 2" standpipe/P trap behind the washer and plumb it over to the drain. Any way to do this correctly without messing with the old metal pipe?

I'm not looking for complete remodel suggestions at this time. Just hoping for a solution to the current problem that I can handle if there is one.

Thanks!

 

[dj3]

Can't see the whole picture from this one photo.
You may need a plumber to come and weigh in.

 

[rjniles]

No wonder it stinks, you are getting raw sewage from the drain stack. The trap for the washer needs to be raised so it is not flooded from the stack.

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[PUNISHER VETTE]

No wonder it stinks, you are getting raw sewage from the drain stack. The trap for the washer needs to be raised so it is not flooded from the stack.

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Yeah. That's basically the conclusion we came to. The old metal is just Tee'd and when sewage hits the bottom can splash either way and some was heading towards the washer machine P trap.

Just not sure of the best way to raise the trap.

Put a Reducing Y, cleanout plug where the current P trap is. and use the Y part for the new Ptrap that'll be a few inches taller and 2" pipe over behind the washing machine?

 

[rjniles]

Install a tee-wye with a clean out into the stack, reduce to 2", go up 6"' and install a trap and stand pipe.

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[PUNISHER VETTE]

Install a tee-wye with a clean out into the stack, reduce to 2", go up 6"' and install a trap and stand pipe.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk

Thanks!

Looks like a sanitary tee's are not allowed with the reducing part facing up so the use of a reducing Wye it is.

since it's 2in pipe it says i can use tight 90 degree elbows? to get the pipe behind the washing machine where the trap and standpipe will be

 

[GTRoger]

Thanks!

Looks like a sanitary tee's are not allowed with the reducing part facing up so the use of a reducing Wye it is.

since it's 2in pipe it says i can use tight 90 degree elbows? to get the pipe behind the washing machine where the trap and standpipe will be

I just did some work on our laundry room. Remember that the stand pipe needs to be a certain height from the trap as well (32" or 36"?). If you move the trap up, you may not have a stand pipe tall enough, which maybe the reason that trap is as low as it is to begin with.

 

[PUNISHER VETTE]

I just did some work on our laundry room. Remember that the stand pipe needs to be a certain height from the trap as well (32" or 36"?). If you move the trap up, you may not have a stand pipe tall enough, which maybe the reason that trap is as low as it is to begin with.

Yeah. I saw a lot of regulation on height of trap off the ground and distance of standpipe.

I guess I'm not sure why it matters how high off the ground the trap is as long as the washing machine can pump the water high enough to the opening of the standpipe. I'd rather have a trap at 22inches with no sewer smell than one at 18 with a smell?

 

[GTRoger]

Yeah. I saw a lot of regulation on height of trap off the ground and distance of standpipe.

I guess I'm not sure why it matters how high off the ground the trap is as long as the washing machine can pump the water high enough to the opening of the standpipe. I'd rather have a trap at 22inches with no sewer smell than one at 18 with a smell?

I think its because of overflow reasons. Your washing machine pumps out alot of water very quickly which could overwhelm the trap. Not sure what height trap you can safely get a way with. I would certainly rather not have a sewage smell as well though.