There is no such thing as paint and primer in one. The chemistry is designed to do different things and often one will be suspended in petroleum solvents and the other waterbased.
You cannot compare Pro Classic or any quality paint store paint to Behr. Comparing it to SW Pro Classic is not possible. I will not bash it again here but read a few posts on this site and you will see it is not well liked. I used Behr only when someone donated it for a NFP project and did not revel in the experience. If you are used to using nice paint store paint, don't switch now. Even the contractor grades of paint store paint is better than box store brands.
Now then, since you don't seem opposed to working with solvent based products at least one more time in limited manner, the best way to make your switch to latex acrylic trim paint is to rough up the oil based surface you have with fine grit sandpaper and lay down a nice coat of alkyd primer.
Alkyds get confused as being oil based primers but they are not. They do come suspended in solvents that smell like oil based paint, and you work with tools you would for oil-based paints, hence the confusion I guess.
Anyhow, you can get nice alkyd underbody primers for enamels at your paint store. You can put just about any oil or latex finish over alkyd. Tint the primer to 40 percent or so of your final trim color if you want and are making dramatic color changes or applying deep tone color.
You could lay down a superbonding coat of latex primer. I just don't think you get the same surface but I am picky I guess.
Once primed, you should put on two coats of finish. Aim for as high acrylic content and UV protection as your budget will allow. I like adding a paint conditioner such as Floetrol (their others) to the trim paint to eliminate or greatly reduce brush strokes. Of course I use a nice quality angled sash brush for trim work.
Good luck.
You cannot compare Pro Classic or any quality paint store paint to Behr. Comparing it to SW Pro Classic is not possible. I will not bash it again here but read a few posts on this site and you will see it is not well liked. I used Behr only when someone donated it for a NFP project and did not revel in the experience. If you are used to using nice paint store paint, don't switch now. Even the contractor grades of paint store paint is better than box store brands.
Now then, since you don't seem opposed to working with solvent based products at least one more time in limited manner, the best way to make your switch to latex acrylic trim paint is to rough up the oil based surface you have with fine grit sandpaper and lay down a nice coat of alkyd primer.
Alkyds get confused as being oil based primers but they are not. They do come suspended in solvents that smell like oil based paint, and you work with tools you would for oil-based paints, hence the confusion I guess.
Anyhow, you can get nice alkyd underbody primers for enamels at your paint store. You can put just about any oil or latex finish over alkyd. Tint the primer to 40 percent or so of your final trim color if you want and are making dramatic color changes or applying deep tone color.
You could lay down a superbonding coat of latex primer. I just don't think you get the same surface but I am picky I guess.
Once primed, you should put on two coats of finish. Aim for as high acrylic content and UV protection as your budget will allow. I like adding a paint conditioner such as Floetrol (their others) to the trim paint to eliminate or greatly reduce brush strokes. Of course I use a nice quality angled sash brush for trim work.
Good luck.
