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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Switch is on - got 120 v at j-box, thermostat OK, changed filter at tank outlet, changed filter at pump inlet, changed nozzle, pressing reset on primary control does nothing. Jumped L1 to pump motor. Works fine - able to bleed line.
Supply house (and I) thought it has to be primary control.
Changed Honeywell Primary control - still nothing. This control gives a shaking green, indicator light for approx 2 - 3 sec, then the light goes out, then a single blink every four sec. I'm assuming this is ERR 1: slow/failed ignition.
Removed & visually inspected gun assy when changing nozzle - looks OK. Counter person at supply house thought so too.
 

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You said thermostat was ok....... would you mind elaborating on that a bit more?

Your description leads me to believe that the thermostat is not telling the burner to run. At least that is the first thing that came to mind.
 

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Does your primary have a separate terminal for the high limit. if so, your high limit may be open.
 

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I haven't used that one yet. that has the diagnostic display right.

Did you try jumping the TT terminals and see if it runs then.

You do have line going to the L1 terminal, right. And have a good connection on your neutral.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
This one doesn't have a display, only the green indicator light.
Using my Klein (pen) voltage tester, there is power at L1 female plug and the two TT leads.
Previously jumped L1 to pump motor - worked. Able to prime line.
Tried jumping the two TT leads going to primary - nothing.
Admittedly not great with electric, I believe the neutrals should be the white wires - checked the two nuts/connections. They look good.

To reiterate, when I flip the switch the green indicator shakes/flickers (like it's trying). Then it goes out and after three or four secs gives a single blink every three or four secs.
 

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Devil Dog
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Sounds like your control has locked you out, hold down the reset button for about 30 sec. until you see it flash then release. The motor should come on for 10 seconds and then the burner will come on after the cad cell sees the flame. If this doesn't happen I would check the ignitor next, changing this out is pretty easy and while your at it I'd get a new cad cell.
 

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Sounds like your control has locked you out, hold down the reset button for about 30 sec. until you see it flash then release. The motor should come on for 10 seconds and then the burner will come on after the cad cell sees the flame. If this doesn't happen I would check the ignitor next, changing this out is pretty easy and while your at it I'd get a new cad cell.
On lock out. Isn't it suppose to have a red LED that stays on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah, the error for a lockout is 1/2 sec on, 1/2 sec off. Hold reset for 45 sec - I tried this previously.
To me, signs point to the ignitor. I'm assuming the ignitor is the two springs that contact the gun assembly (where nozzle is connected to)? The part that hinges?
I've seen them test the ignitor on You Tube, but it looked like they had it out and connected to a separate power source!? How could I test mine?

Really appreciate the input!
Being so stingy to call an HVAC contractor because I have a barrel stove that (easily) heats my 1200' ranch.
 

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If it would be the ignitor. The motor would still run until the safety timed out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
:thumbup: Ahh Victory! :thumbup:
The transformer/24 V that I thought was for my t-stat was for an old, non-working humidistat. Jumping it was doing nothing for the furnace.
I traced the t-stat wire connected to the terminal block at the bottom/fan cavity!? Jumped it,...............voaalaaah!
Plus I had some infinite wisdom present (my old man) to reel me in and start with the basics.
I guess the newer models have internal transformers and don't need the external transformers. As Old Squid, beenthere, and Handyman say, "yeah,.....duh!"
Anyways, learned a bunch. Thanks all.
 
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