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I think I can almost picture your building, but a photo or two would help.

If you install a ridge vent, it needs an equivalent input vent at the BOTTOM of the roof, where eaves should have been. Gable-end vents will just act as short-circuit input vents for the ridge-vent's output, so most of the attic will be effectively unvented still, AND you will be drawing air IN through a gable vent that was intended/designed as an output vent. You risk pulling rain, snow, and dust into your attic.

A power vent needs the same thing - input air. If it can't get it from proper low-lying vents at the lower edges of the roof, then it'll suck air through whatever gaps exist between house and attic. This depressurizes the house and causes the house to suck in air at every gap, pulling in hot outdoor air. Pulling air from the house into the attic also pulls moisture from cooking and bathing, which gets into your insulation, or at night (with that drastic temperature drop) condenses it on the underside of the roof, precipitating mold. Don't use big suction (a power vent) if you don't have proper lower inlets. If you DO manage to install some sort of "soffit" level inlets, then you've got what a ridge vent (or mushroom vents, less effectively) needs and you don't need power venting anyway. Not a great situation you are in. But you knew that... sorry.

Is there no drip edge at all, where the tops of your walls meet the roof? Not even a little overhang?

If there's flashing there, you might be able to use a product from Air Vent for that purpose. Check their website.

- kevin
 
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