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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is this offset toilet flange installed correctly?

My plumber screwed up the rough in of the toilet. So he put in a offset flange to fix the problem. I can see the top of the cast iron pipe and it is flush with the CBU and the bottom of the flange, creating a moon shape pocket. This to me seems like a terrible idea. A pocket where things will get caught and very easily clog the toilet.
 

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I'd say it's wrong ... it should be one straight/offset continuous pipe down the drain ... seems like there'll be always be standing water collected at the red arrow area ... or worse, leak out at the gaps between offset and iron pipe (blue arrows) ...
 

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Tileguy
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That does NOT look like an "offset flange".
That looks like a flange that has been offset.:)

It would probably work but I agree you need a different more competent plumber.:)

Is this guy a comedian?:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That does NOT look like an "offset flange".
That looks like a flange that has been offset.:)

It would probably work but I agree you need a different more competent plumber.:)

Is this guy a comedian?:)
really? It's not an offset flange? I just thought it was installed correctly, the cast iron pipe needs to be cut down lower. Look at where the bolt holes are.
Looks like this one.

Although I can't see the compression gasket on the one i have installed.

Can you show me an example of the one that SHOULD be used? Many of the ones I search online are pvc/abs.
 

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Tileguy
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Calm down calm down. I have never ever seen one of those things before and didn't realize it had all of that garbage below the ring. Looks kind of hoky in the first pictures.
Sorry, I WAS MISTAKEN, now go take a heart pill and don't beat up on your dog.:)
 

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acerunner -

If the flange is identical to the one you've pictured above, it'll work but the cast iron needs to be cut down. It shouldn't be any higher than the top of the rubber compression ring.
 

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Use a small grinder and score about half way through the pipe at the elevation you want. Then use a cresent wrench or vice grips to grab the edge of the pipe. Apply outward pressure. It will snap along the score line. Problem solved :drink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Calm down calm down. I have never ever seen one of those things before and didn't realize it had all of that garbage below the ring. Looks kind of hoky in the first pictures.
Sorry, I WAS MISTAKEN, now go take a heart pill and don't beat up on your dog.:)
you have misread the tone of my comment.
notice "really? It's not an offset flange?" instead of "really?!?! It's not an offset flange?!?! What are you, a moron?!?!" :jester: I was not trying to give you a hard time. You just gave me a moment of worry there, both in doubting my own ability to recognize plumbing components, and that my plumber is a bigger moron than I already think he is. Until I found the picture online of what looks to be the same part. So in your face! :laughing: *joking*

i agree, compression ring is inferior. I would have preferred a continuous pipe, but at this point, I don't know how you would be able to install it. This is over a sleeper floor above on-grade slab foundation, so there is no access below.
 

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I agree with Eplumber. Try a Dremmel. Just gonna take some patience and a beer or two..
 

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acerunner, that is not an inferior flange IMO. Well, maybe any offset flange is inferior, but what other choice do you have given your floor system? The compression gasket is quite good. At least the ones I've installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
acerunner, that is not an inferior flange IMO. Well, maybe any offset flange is inferior, but what other choice do you have given your floor system? The compression gasket is quite good. At least the ones I've installed.
my thinking is that you always want to assemble pipes in such a way that in the direction of flow will not run into any edges, like for hubbed cast iron pipes, the hubbed side is always downstream of the flow.

So this compression flange breaks the rule.

Next best option would be continuous offset pipe with hubless connection. Or better yet, no additional bend at all. You are right though, given my circumstance, there is no other way unfortunately.
 

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This type of flange about your only other option. But if you grind down the pipe edge to fit your compression flange, you'll be fine.
BTW, if you look at most cast iron flanges that were joined with lead and oakum, you'll see the pipe end inside the flange, opposite the flow, granted the end of the pipe doesn't look as bad as yours :wink:
And the flow should be out of the spigot and into the hub
 

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Tileguy
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It's not an offset flange?!?! What are you, a moron?!?!" :jester: I was not trying...
Well maybe so.
I do know that when I make statements like that around here I get a "Scolding PM" from a Moderator and the comments get deleted.:yes: Funny how that works!!!:laughing:
 

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Acerunner,

From your photo it looks like the plumber cut an offset flange to fit around the drain pipe. If you cut/grind the drain pipe down to where the offset flange meets it and leave the rest as is, is there a chance of water leaking down into the ground where the offset flange is cut to fit the drain pipe?

If yes and there are ground termites in your area, you home will become a focal point for the termites. Ground termites need water and when they find a constant source, they focus their nest in that area.

I would have the plumber redo the job, get another plumber to redo it, or redo it yourself. For me, there wouldn't be any other alternative. I would not knowingly have a constant leak going into the ground.

However, if you decide to cut the drain pipe down to where the offset flange is cut to fit around it, then maybe think about cleaning the area really well and fiberglass from the top of the flange down into the drain pipe past the joint. Then "maybe" the water won't be leaking below the slab and inviting all of the termites in your neighborhood.

HRG
 
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