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· Don't know it all, yet!
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Bless your heart!, as we say in the south. Pull it. Pull it again. Pull it.....
You have to be very tenacious with this stuff. Is it in your lawn, shrub beds, ????
There are some high-priced herbicides marketed for nutgrass in lawns, but they also warn not to use them in the root zone of desirable plants. In other words, just plain old RoundUp is just as good and won't affect the roots of other plants.
I have read, and tend to believe, that nutgrass senses when you spray it and the nuts (tubers) will detach before the herbicide gets to them. I have several beds that I spray, pull, spray, pull. If you stay on them, you can get fairly good control.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's in a bed next to our house, in a section where we don't have anything planted, just pinestraw mulch.

last year I tried roundup one week, give it time to absorb, then cut off the grass so it has to burn energy from the roots to grow, then roundup, etc. Didn't seem to do much.

I'd cover the area with weed fabric if I thought it would help, or dig it up completely. Roundup just doesn't seem to faze it. Maybe super-concentrated?

I use a pre-emergent to keep crabgrass out of the yard... is there a pre-emergent I can try next year that will take care of the nutgrass?

Thanks for any tips!
 

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I keep some Image handy in a spray bottle, I mix about 3 teaspoons of the concentrate for every pint of water, give them 2-3 sprays at the roots and a week later they're yellow and dying. It takes awhile to get them all, those are tough SOBs. Roundup goesn't kill the roots and nuts.
 

· Don't know it all, yet!
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give them 2-3 sprays at the roots and a week later they're yellow and dying. It takes awhile to get them all, those are tough SOBs. Roundup goesn't kill the roots and nuts.
I've just gotta ask, how much do you pay for Image? Do you realize that it can be absorbed by the roots of nearby desirable plants? Read the label. It's great for nutsedge in lawns; that is what is was developed for, but it will damage ornamental plants.

RoundUp kills roots and/but I have already acknowledged that it probably does not destroy the nuts.

I have found that a very effective way to "cheat" with RoundUp, or should we say glyphosate, is to add a soil sterilant as a kicker. This is the main reason that I asked about what is near the nutsedge. Check at your local garden center, HD, etc and look for a herbicide that kills weeds "all season long," "all year long," etc. It probably will say soil sterilant but it may not. Some are oil based and can be mixed with diesel fuel or can be mixed with water. Personally, I use a commercial strength glyphosate (41% or 44%) at 2 ounces per gallon and about 1/2 or 1/4 strength on the sterilant. In a 4 gallon backpack sprayer that comes out to about 8 ounces glyphosate and about 1/2 pint of sterilant. The sterilant by the label dilutes to 8 gallons I think from 1 gallon of concentrate. Yellowing begins in a couple of days instead of a week and EVERYTHING within about a foot of where I spray dies.

Or, if nothing is very close, just get some diesel fuel and dribble some right at the root of the nutsedge. Very politically incorrect and I disclaim any liability for your doing so.
 

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I forgot to point out that there is no such thing, practically speaking, as a pre-emergent for perennials, which nutgrass is. Pre-emergents are used seasonally for control of annual weeds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just wanted to update this in case anyone else ever comes along searching. After more research I got a small bottle of Basagran. I've been applying this as needed and it keeps the "sedgegrass" under control. May take a while longer to get rid of it completely but it is eventually effective.

Thanks for the tips,

flamtap
 
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