I have a ClosetMaid Laundry Shelf that I want to install but I got the shelf from my aunt and she lost the screws and anchors to it. I tried contacting the company but didn't receive helpful advice on what to use.
Anyone have recommendations on what size screws and anchors to use? The item that I intend to put on the shelf is an average sized cat carrier. So that has to weigh less than 10 lbs. I plan on installing the shelf as close to the ceiling as possible, so I want to make sure the shelf is secure and doesn't fall on someone.
You didn't say what the wall material is that you are putting the anchors into ?
But if its drywall, you can use the above push-in anchors, but I rather prefer the screw in anchors. They are very strong. #8 screw should be fine. But for maximum strength, try to find the studs behind the drywall, and screw into the studs (no anchors).
You didn't say what the wall material is that you are putting the anchors into ?
But if its drywall, you can use the above push-in anchors, but I rather prefer the screw in anchors. They are very strong. #8 screw should be fine. But for maximum strength, try to find the studs behind the drywall, and screw into the studs (no anchors).
And, they have them for just about all residential applications and weights.
I think They are 20lb -75lbs. I'm currently running a commercial build out and the existing drywall has several push-in holes where the anchors failed. Almost all the screw in type must be removed for the skim coat repairs. They do make a larger hole, but seldom fail. Great product.
That's a little weird. The head of the screw just catches between those end wires. There is no clip or mounting hole or anything. You have to make sure the screw head is big enough. Or just add a washer on there to make sure.
If you can hit a stud on at least one side, that would be great. But I second @SPS-1 on the EZ Anchors. .
I have done many of these closet maid installs. I always find the studs to mount the vertical supports to. There is plenty of flexibility in the placement, so no reason not to try and hit a stud.
Finding the studs is easy with some quick knuckle taps to get you close, then use a magnet to find a drywall screw. Make a mark then use a level to draw in a vertical line.
If the holes don't line up to a stud - find the stud and put a couple of these in at the stud for additional support. (depends on how much weight you intend to put on the shelf.
#12 screws into studs provide the best support should anyone put something heavier than the cat box on it in the future. I use a very small drill bit to verify the stud locations and if I miss the stud it is easier to patch the hole. When I have found the stud the wood shavings come off the drill bit and then I switch to a larger size drill bit.
I find myself clipping off the ends of the ends of the shelf holders and using the screw in shields that @SPS-1 pictured. When I don't hit a stud that is. I do use the pin and push a part things for the shelf support arms though.
One thing I do differently is I will put one or two upside down, especially on a long shelf, just to keep it in place.
I don't like the push pins. Push pin holders were used in my closets when originally installed. Twenty years later, a lot of them had failed --- broken where the plastic bends when you push in the pins.
Or you can run a nominal 1' x 2" cleat the length of the shelf,attach it using #10 x 2 1/2" long screws at wall studs, run same size 12" vertical cleats butting up to the bottom of the horizontal cleat and screwed to wall studs where possible and followed by simple 90 degree angle shelf brackets mounted onto the vertical cleats for the shelf to sit on. I use wall claw anchors when I need to install a anchor where there is no stud.A small pilot hole makes install very easy and I have been able to remove them leaving a much smaller hole for repair than traditional screw in anchors or toggle type.
You can't use a french cleat for wire shelving, kind of defeats the purpose. If you are running uprights, you can use the hanging bracket across the top that both ClosetMaid and RubberMaid both offer. And that can be placed so it will fall onto the studs. The uprights are then hung from it and placed where needed. Since the uprights are no longer carrying as much weight, they no longer need to be screwed into studs.
Of course, you should if it all possible. If not, using a better quality anchor will do the trick. I have a 12' x 6' walk in closet constructed of wire shelving using the top-rail method.
I like these self drill anchors at the big box stores. I get them at Amazon. They seem better constructed and seem to hold better in drywall. I have had the other ones pull out. But then I may have bought some really cheap ones at HD or Lowe's.
These ones are made of glass reinforced nylon and are made in USA.
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