A friend who knows I do small construction jobs in my free time has asked me to widen an interior door way. I've yet to takle this particular project so I need some advice. I'm quite sure its not load baring. My question is...I'm assuming I'm going to have to remove and replace the existing header, I don't have a problem with building the new one but how diffacult will getting the old one out be?
not sure about tackling this one.
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If you are uncertain on how to do that step, don't do it. Be safe, G
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If you are certain it is not a load bearing wall, then you can expect to see something like this (if it is load bearing, it will probably still look similar, except the header would be solid 2x8, or larger, running horizontal and not just those little cripple studs):
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As you can see, if you want to widen something like this, you'll have to take down the jack studs (the studs the horizontal header is actually resting on) and king studs (the studs immediately adjacent to the jack studs that run floor to ceiling) on either side of the opening, and move them outward. The cripple studs (the little short vertical studs on top of the header) will likely have to get knocked out in the demolition process. Then after you know the final rough opening of the door that you want, you then just rebuild the structure the same way. You'll also have to cut back the bottom plate (the horizontal framing members that are sitting on the floor).
My advice to you though: unless you are 100% certain that wall isn't load bearing, don't start messing around with any of its framing.
As you can see, if you want to widen something like this, you'll have to take down the jack studs (the studs the horizontal header is actually resting on) and king studs (the studs immediately adjacent to the jack studs that run floor to ceiling) on either side of the opening, and move them outward. The cripple studs (the little short vertical studs on top of the header) will likely have to get knocked out in the demolition process. Then after you know the final rough opening of the door that you want, you then just rebuild the structure the same way. You'll also have to cut back the bottom plate (the horizontal framing members that are sitting on the floor).
My advice to you though: unless you are 100% certain that wall isn't load bearing, don't start messing around with any of its framing.
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Actually for an interior non-load bearing wall it could be a 2x4 header as it is not carrying weight
"Widen an interior doorway"
How wide is it right now?
How wide is it going to be?
Demoltion is fairly easy - but you have to be worried about live wires in the wall. Once the drywall is off you can see what's in there. Take the drywall off everywhere it will be enlarged
Double check & see if there are any plumbing pipes 1st
Can you check in the attic/basement for wires/plumbing?
"Widen an interior doorway"
How wide is it right now?
How wide is it going to be?
Demoltion is fairly easy - but you have to be worried about live wires in the wall. Once the drywall is off you can see what's in there. Take the drywall off everywhere it will be enlarged
Double check & see if there are any plumbing pipes 1st
Can you check in the attic/basement for wires/plumbing?
Thanks to all, I will be moving some electric, no biggie, and there is no plumbing in the area. As far as "load baring" goes, it is a narrow row type home and I'm quite sure the joists span party wall to party wall on the first floor just as in the basement and the attic AND there are no supports under this wall in the basement. So based on that, I think I'll be safe.
Now if I open it up and see a double 2X8 header, I'll have to re-evaluate.
Thanks again to all who replied!:thumbup:
Now if I open it up and see a double 2X8 header, I'll have to re-evaluate.
Thanks again to all who replied!:thumbup:
If it is a row house the joist should span party wall to party wall yes however sometimes they spin the framing and support it different ways. Sometimes what should be logical is not so MAKE SURE that it is not load bearing. If it is load bearing there may be framing in the same location on all levels which can be a hint that there is load being carried all the way down to the footings.
Good luck on this one as it can get dangerous quite quickly. One way you can possibly analyze that header and see what is in the wall without opening it up is remove the top piece of casing and peek up above the door jamb you will either see 2x on flat which will probably tell you it is also not load bearing or double 2x with possibly spacers sandwiched in between which may tell you it is load bearing however there is no fast hard rule on how they may have framed it. If you can get above the wall (maybe there is an attic as stated previously) where you can see what is above then you will be even more informed as to what you have.
Take care and be safe!
Good luck on this one as it can get dangerous quite quickly. One way you can possibly analyze that header and see what is in the wall without opening it up is remove the top piece of casing and peek up above the door jamb you will either see 2x on flat which will probably tell you it is also not load bearing or double 2x with possibly spacers sandwiched in between which may tell you it is load bearing however there is no fast hard rule on how they may have framed it. If you can get above the wall (maybe there is an attic as stated previously) where you can see what is above then you will be even more informed as to what you have.
Take care and be safe!
Thanks Paragon, if I go to just above door, by the way its not encased, on 2nd floor and pull the plumbing hatch, I can see the direction of the joists, party to party. And I could be wrong but are LB walls ever NOT supported by columns directly under in basement? Feel free to educate me, I'm never afraid of that. Also I do understand that things aren't alway what they appear to be, there's always something I've never seen before ya know?
Thanks again
Thanks again
Then to me it sounds like you are okay.
The next step is basically what has been said before open up the wall and re frame and re rock and get er done. Make sure you know what door is going in there so that you get the rough opening the correct dimension and give yourself some room for shimming.
Good luck and be safe!
The next step is basically what has been said before open up the wall and re frame and re rock and get er done. Make sure you know what door is going in there so that you get the rough opening the correct dimension and give yourself some room for shimming.
Good luck and be safe!
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