[kmutt]

I have a house built in 1910 in minnesota. Gutting the bathroom and would like to fix the plumbing while its open. the problem is there is no soil stack and no vents on any fixture besides a 2 inch vent by the toilet. never had many issues besides the toilet takes a few flushes to clear sometimes. to put a proper soil stack vent would mean going through the middle of the bedroom and the closest wall is 3 feet away. The main drain stack comes in from the basement floor and elbows over at 6 feet then runs horizontally for 6 or 7 feet picking up the lav shower laundry and toilet with a 2 inch vent that goes out of the roof before the toilet. ill post a pic of the side view and top to show what i mean. my plan is to vent all the fixtures and wondering if i can put a "T" or "Wye" in place of the last elbow going to the toilet to bring a 3 inch vent out the roof in place of the 2 inch vent to act as the soil stack vent being that i cant put it where its supposed to go? any thought or input please.

 

[kmutt]

this is how i would like to change it hope this helps. wye to the toilet and vent out the back of the wye with 3 inch out the roof.

 

[WhatRnsdownhill]

that second picture will work, but keep the 2 inch vent for the toilet, just tie it back into the 3 inch stack going to the roof...

 

[joecaption]

I'd want to see a clean out where your drawing an elbow in that second picture on the right side where the it turns to vent.

 

[Tom738]

Side-note, since it is unclear if you're replacing all of it: I would replace all exposed old cast iron (and lead) with plastic while the walls are open. Make it so you don't have to open the walls again for fifty years.

 

[Javiles]

last picture shows a dry vent check your code see if it's allowed, washing machine on 3 inch downstream of the last fixture on the bathroom branch. depends on ur code

 

[TheEplumber]

Why do you want to add the 3" vent behind the toilet? I don't believe your code requires it unless it's a Minnesota addendum.
Vent the lav and shower as you show. Then take those over to the 2" w.c. vent. At that point, increase to 3" thru the roof

 

[TheEplumber]

This is from your State plb. site:

Full size, three-inch building vents are no longer required. New building venting requires the aggregate cross sectional area of vents to not be less than the largest required building sewer.
All floor drains, floor sinks and similar must be individually vented.
Vertical wet venting and horizontal wet venting of a bathroom group are permitted with limitations

You use an amended UPC code. So you don't need the 3" vent like you show it. Tie the 1.5" vents and 2" vent (wc) together in the ceiling into a 3" fitting- exit with 3", This will satisfy the cross sectional area requirement.

Based UPC the washer is 2" and can connect at any point for residential work

 

[kmutt]

If I don't have to put that 3 inch vent in the wall I wont. I just thought I needed some sort of stack vent the same size as the drain into the cement even though it wouldnt be a true stack vent. So I will just vent the the other fixtures and tie them into a 3 inch pipe out the roof. Makes things a heck of a lot easier. I will only have to replace the cast iron in the wall of the 2 inch vent that is there. every thing else is pvc. Should I still throw a clean out at the toilet?

 

[ben's plumbing]

right just tie the 1 1/2 vents into the 2" w .c vent then go up thru the roof with 3" .....don't need a c.o at commode.....

 

[TheEplumber]

right just tie the 1 1/2 vents into the 2" w .c vent then go up thru the roof with 3" .....don't need a c.o at commode.....

Just to clarify a bit- the vents need to enter at a 3" fitting Not a 3" reducer on top of a smaller pipe as if frost venting.
This way, the 3" cross sectional area is met.

 

[kmutt]

Well I just took a closer look in the attic and I don't the think I'll be connecting any vents there. There isnt much slope in the roof where the one 2 inch vent comes out of the roof and is inaccessible to connect fittings. The only option I see is to drill through the ceiling joists and they are only four inch. Even then I dont think I can fit a 3 inch fitting. I'm stumped.

 

[gregzoll]

Depending on where in Minnesota you are located, depends on if it was a Sears & Roebuck, Montgomery Wards or one of the other catalog homes that you are looking at what would be common for that period.

Your local historical society would have info on what neighborhoods are from what catalog and possibly the construction company. They may even have a plan for that Bungalow, or you may find it online if you search for your city, state and year.

The Sears homes are unique, because of how the trim was made for baseboards.

This is the best resource for the plans. http://www.antiquehome.org/site-map.htm Keep in mind when these homes were built. The majority were built by guys just like us and not all homes were the same, if you have a whole neighborhood of copy cat Trac's. That is because those who built them had their own unique signature that they used.