DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:beta1: I just bought a house and it has plaster (I assume horsehair plaster), the house was built in the EARLY 1900's.:eek:

I want to remove the plaster and put up drywall, I know one thing from reading lots of internet things about removing plaster...ITS MESSSSYYY and DUSTY. :censored:

My question is this if (if anyone has dealt with this) What if I would soak the plaster with water....would it be easier (but heavier) to remove off the wall and cut off in small sections:beta1:

This winter i have found that my house is FULL of drafts and something has to be done this summer.

Any ideas?
 

·
Retired Moderator
Joined
·
25,770 Posts
Forget the water--strong fans in the windows--two layers of heavy plastic on the floors---tape off the doorways---wear a good respirator--and a hat--start removing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
484 Posts
What oh'Mike said, plus, if you are not physically STRONG, I would seriously recommend hiring this out. Even if its only the first floor, its back breaking work. If you do tackle it, get a couple of joint compound buckets, and load them evenly, but not too full. This makes it a lot easier to carry out all the busted up plaster, since they buckets balance each other. Also, if you are getting rid of the lathe, check around in your area for someone who wants the lathe strips. You might get lucky and find someone who is willing to remove it for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
471 Posts
I have done just what you are planning on doing. If your floors are to be saved, you will need more than plastic on them to protect them, old carpeting turned upside down or plywood. If you do it room by room and plastic off the door ways then you can minimize the mess. You can also buy a plastic zipper to make a doorway for easier in and out access. I used a flat blade shovel on the walls after I had banged off some plaster. I then had to remove the lathe. Keeping them separate proved a good idea as I burned the lathe and took the plaster to the landfill. Also when replacing with drywall, do a check on just how thick the old plaster was around doorways and windows so when placing new drywall it matches up well with no shims for trim needed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
removing plaster

Im in way over my head so I am just trying to think ahead of what I COULD DO. Im just tryin to think of the best...easiest way to work on it ugh. I do know I need to get plastic and cover the floor and vents.

I am afraid to see how much a contractor would charge to remove the walls and put up normal walls. So I am thinking do it myself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,918 Posts
we have done way to many of these....what we do is cover the floor with 1/4" underlayment seams taped,then layer of rosin paper stapled down..now just apply what oh mike said and others.....are you done yet:laughing: if its on the 2nd floor we build a shoot to dumpster...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
758 Posts
Using 5 gallon buckets to put the plaster in is a good idea. I also used a rope to lower the full buckets to the ground. A ladder placed outside the window allows you keep interior door closed. Use the ladder. You will be amazed at how filthy you get removing the plaster, espcially from the ceiling. This is also a good time to upgrade windows, wiring and insulation.
 

·
Registered User
Joined
·
11,730 Posts
I'd blow-in cellulose if new wiring is not accessible from below or above. Plaster/lath is 8# per square foot....... cheap furnace filters in front of the fans blowing out, smaller cardboard boxes lined up under the demo area to catch the material (easier than shoveling it up) and along the wall (baseboard removed for close encounter), toss them when full, remember small boxes... No water, unless you dehydrate.

Gary
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,402 Posts
The key though to the demolition is to cut out the areas with a concrete or masonry blade in a saw or a small right angle grinder. I use a 4 1/2" right angle grinder for all kinds of stuff like this so I keep a diamond blade in it and even use it to cut tile. These grinders only cost 40 dollars or less and can quickly become a remodeler’s go to tool in bathroom and kitchen re-dos. Also cover up the room and wear a dust mask as you will make a lot of dust.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,377 Posts
man i wish i saw this. i just tore off the plaster ceilings in the entire upstairs. the mess is incredible. you can DIY it but it is tough work. we just had old carpet on the floor and that worked out. the hard part is transporting them out, and keeping dust down. in my case dust went everywhere.

use a hammer and you can bang out sections at a time.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,993 Posts
Some of the old plasters contained harmful additives so definitely "mask up" to keep from sucking the nasties into your lungs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
chrisn, I'm unsure of your question. The main reason I want to is because there is no insulation in the walls and the electrical outlets are at foot level compared to knee level. Unless you have a suggestion I'm am more then willing to listen to others
 

·
Not so new
Joined
·
970 Posts
New electric can be run and insulation can be added without tearing down plaster.

Thing is...you have to call contractors in those trades to get estimates, then you can make an informed decision onwhich path to take.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
471 Posts
Well, it is my opinion( and mine only) that a home with original plaster is much more valuable that cheap drywall. As stated, electrical and insulation can be added without tearing down the plaster.
Only problem is it would cost you more for an electrician to run wires in the wall if it were not open, also to blow insulation in the walls would be your only way to insulate and that is the worst way to insulate as it sags over time and looses it's R value capability. So take the walls down install smooth flat drywall and update your insulation vapour barrier and drywall. Best investment you could make, will also cut down on your heating bills in the future.:thumbup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
565 Posts
What's your budget for this?

How much are you willing/able to spend on replacing the plaster with drywall? Are you hiring someone to hang the new stuff--have you gotten a quote for it? If you're DIY'ing hanging the stuff, have you figured the cost for buying drywall, tape, mud, tools, etc? Do you have enough time/energy for it?

When the walls are open that is your chance to do all this extra work you're thinking of...
--> Are you hiring an electrician? Have you gotten quotes?

--> What type of insulation are you going to put in? batts? foam? cellulose? Are you DIY'ing or hiring?

--> Don't forget to factor in the time/effort/materials to replace trim around doors/windows that may be required--the drywall will be much thinner then the plaster & lathe so you may need to tweak some things, particularly up near the ceiling (consider crown molding if you don't already have it--it will hide a lot of sin)

--> Any plumbing behind these walls? Something I ran into while replacing the plaster in my kitchen and bath is that the vent pipes for both my kitchen sink and the toilet both extended beyond the face of the studs--it was no big deal for the plaster guys when the house was built, but once you're putting up sheets of drywall you'll have a huge hump (might even break the sheet)... I had to shim the face of all the studs with 1/4" luan. Speaking of plumbing--this would be the time to update if you needed it, have you budgeted for it if needed?

--> Don't forget the cost for paint and any required materials for that... I was really surprised at the cost for primers and paint.

The only good thing about a job like this is that if you're DIY'ing it you can do it one room at a time.

Good luck!

P.S., as a buyer I much prefer plaster over drywall in an older home. If you're dead-set on replacement you might want to consider "blueboard" with a plaster skim coat, that's what I did and the walls still feel nice and solid.
 

·
Mold!! Let's kill it!
Joined
·
2,849 Posts
Firm solid and valuable are not words that I'd use to describe the horsehair plaster on wood lath that I've seen. Soft, crumbly and almost impossible to repair would fit.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top