[golfer2b]

Hello everyone,
Its been a long time since I have been on here! I'm looking for a little help in repositioning my P-trap for a new vanity. The new vanity has a higher floor than the old one and sits a few inches below the bottom. I don't really want to cut an 8 inch hole into the new vanity but I also understand that if I put two 45s coming out of the wall it will be an S-trap which isn't a good thing. Can someone take a look at the attached pictures and make a suggestion on how to proceed? I have thought about maybe converting to a smaller pipe once it is out of the wall, but I would prefer to keep the same size...but honestly I just want something that works! I have attached a top view, side view, and behind the wall view.

Thanks for any help or suggestions anyone can provide!






TOP https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2NFxhAJNCR2RVo1c0w4M2Q0ODg

SIDE https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2NFxhAJNCR2TTRwNGQxUGhVU28

BEHIND WALL https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2NFxhAJNCR2a19vUjVBTzJqUGM

 

[rjniles]

Cut the pipe coming out of the wall and install a 1.5" trap adapter. Use a 1.5 to 1.25" compression washer and use a standard vanity drain trap.

 

[joecaption]

That would get rid of all those glued connections that never should have been there in the first place.

 

[srloren]

That would get rid of all those glued connections that never should have been there in the first place.

Cut the PVC 5/8" from the fitting that is in the wall and glue on an 1 1/2" slip x 1 1/4" MIPS Adapter (the debth of the fitting is actually closer to 3/4" but many times the cut is not square so I recommend 5/8") and use tubular trap to get faster flow than 1 1/2". If you have a pop up in the new sink, you will also have to monitor the lever to be sure that hair does not build up on it to cause slow drain. Can you position the new cabinet and inch or two left or right? If so you will have room to position the trap if it is too close to the wall. good luck

 

[golfer2b]

Thanks for the help! I bought some supplies at Lowe's and hoping to install tonight....I will post pictures when complete.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[golfer2b]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2NFxhAJNCR2Y3RDN2NLVjR4TGs/view?usp=drivesdk

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[golfer2b]

It is still sitting too low, any tips or suggestions? Also, I know I'm missing the connection adapter to the line in the wall.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[TheEplumber]

It is still sitting too low, any tips or suggestions? Also, I know I'm missing the connection adapter to the line in the wall.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

You have 2 options-
keep the trap elavation and notch the cabinet or
follow the trap arm back to the vertical drain and then raise the trap arm tee to the height you need

 

[Olcrazy1]

Appears your water lines will be an issue also. If it was me I'd return the vanity and buy one that works better with your current drain and water line set up. Otherwise open up the wall and raise the drain and water lines above that white shelf, just make sure you have room to tie in the sink

 

[golfer2b]

Yeah, already planning on moving the water lines up to the left. I guess I'll just notch out the part of the cabinet where the p trap sits. No one will see it, just hurts to cut into a new vanity.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[srloren]

Yeah, already planning on moving the water lines up to the left. I guess I'll just notch out the part of the cabinet where the p trap sits. No one will see it, just hurts to cut into a new vanity.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

If you notch out too much, install a new brace across the back to keep the cabinet from coming apart. So many of these cabinets are not made with solid wood, but press board which is a pethetic material for construction. Cheeeeeeeepo. Hopefully you have real wood and can add the brace. I would add it prior to cutting the existing wood.

 

[Yodaman]

Looks like you already have your dry wall cut out. Just make your changes behind the wall. Fix the wall and no need to butcher the new vanity.

 

[ChiTownPro]

Looks like you already have your dry wall cut out. Just make your changes behind the wall. Fix the wall and no need to butcher the new vanity.

Amen! Fix the issue while you can and make it look nice!

 

[golfer2b]

Looks like you already have your dry wall cut out. Just make your changes behind the wall. Fix the wall and no need to butcher the new vanity.

Unfortunately, I don't think I can because the vertical pipe isn't behind the drywall I cut out. If that is a possibility then I'm all for it.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[golfer2b]

Also this vanity is real wood so shouldn't have trouble with putting a brace in.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[ChiTownPro]

Unfortunately, I don't think I can because the vertical pipe isn't behind the drywall I cut out. If that is a possibility then I'm all for it.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

You'll have to cut more drywall out.

 

[carpdad]

Don't know if this will help, but there is a reversible trap where the u bend can be reversed for changing positions. It looked like every time I put a new faucet with its drain tail, the positions would change and this is what I found. I am assuming it is ok to use because it is on the market.:smile: If it goes down enough, you can drill a hole instead of a notch.

 

[golfer2b]

Don't know if this will help, but there is a reversible trap where the u bend can be reversed for changing positions. It looked like every time I put a new faucet with its drain tail, the positions would change and this is what I found. I am assuming it is ok to use because it is on the market.:smile: If it goes down enough, you can drill a hole instead of a notch.

Can you find a link or a picture so I can see what you are talking about?

Also I was probably going to drill out a hole to keep the cabinet stable

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[Yodaman]

Don't know if this will help, but there is a reversible trap where the u bend can be reversed for changing positions. It looked like every time I put a new faucet with its drain tail, the positions would change and this is what I found. I am assuming it is ok to use because it is on the market.:smile: If it goes down enough, you can drill a hole instead of a notch.

this assumption will get you in trouble every time,

but I am curious to see what it is you are recommending

 

[carpdad]

Sorry don't know how to put a link here. It's easy though. I found it in amazon and it's called Deerborn Brass p trap with reversible j bend. I just typed "reversible trap". I bought one just in case and both sides of the u have the bevel to fit the piece that goes into the wall. Will have to find extra long drain piece from the sink.
I do take a hard look at things I buy - although, any port in a storm.
This configuration puts one more joint under water and would assume it has more chance of a leak.