[MTN REMODEL LLC]

Good Morning friends....

I have virtually never had experience with stucco construction...We did not have many in the Colorado mountains, and I never built or remodeled with it.

I now have an all stucco retirement home in southern Nevada...all I can tell you is that it is real stucco and not EIFS.

My problem:

Cutting out neatly some ceiling fan boxes in a stucco overhead covered deck.

Per the pictures, it appears to me that there is just a very heavy metal lathe supporting impregnated stucco.

HOW DO I CUT A NEAT CEILING FAN BOX IN AND CUT THAT HEAVY METAL LATHE neatly without tearing up the cut-in.?????????

I did have a previous install of a dryer vent in sidewall. I just multi drilled 1/4 inch holes in a circle...punched it out...and clipped the light metal screed with nippers....but that wall screeding was very light weight.

I suppose I could try a recep saw on the heavy lathe, but not sure if I will tear up the cut-out.

Thanks for any ideas and experience.

 

[Windows on Wash]

Mark where you need it, install the framing between the trusses, get a multitool with a diamond blade, trace out your box and location, make your cuts and give enough margin around the box so that when the fan shakes, its not binding and won't want to crack the stucco.

Its time consuming, but easier to cut through once you get going. Less is more with cutting speed.

Also...get a mask and goggles.

 

[MTN REMODEL LLC]

Windows...Thank you....

Is your reference to the Diamond blade for cutting the stucco and /or the metal lathe.

I do like the idea of my multi vs my recep as being less vibrational....but I've never thought of a diamond blade for cutting metal.

Any guess as to how substantial/thick/guage that metal lath is...??? Or how thick...???

 

[Windows on Wash]

The stucco. It will cut the lathe on as well.

https://www.amazon.com/XXGO-Oscilla...diamond+multitool+blade&qid=1590517691&sr=8-5

 

[ClarenceBauer]

The Diamond blades are the best to use to make the Square corners.
You can use a masonry blade in a Dremel tool to cut close to the corners than switch to the Multi tool with a grout swing blade.
If you are doing round boxes you can use a Diamond hole saw cost for this one is $$$ but very fast.
DO NOT use a resip saw it will bounce the Stucco & Lath which could cause it to crack.

That Stucco is on High Rib Lath which would make it at least 7/8" thick maybe more like 1" thick. Also looks like they did a very good application looking @ it from the back side.

 

[MTN REMODEL LLC]

The Diamond blades are the best to use to make the Square corners.
You can use a masonry blade in a Dremel tool to cut close to the corners than switch to the Multi tool with a grout swing blade.
If you are doing round boxes you can use a Diamond hole saw cost for this one is $$$ but very fast.
DO NOT use a resip saw it will bounce the Stucco & Lath which could cause it to crack.

That Stucco is on High Rib Lath which would make it at least 7/8" thick maybe more like 1" thick. Also looks like they did a very good application looking @ it from the back side.

Thank You Clarence......

That's exactly what I feared with a recep......

I was pretty sure there was a pro hole saw for the job....and probably more $ than the two fans....and I don't really see any other likely application for me.

Without knowing stucco per se....I thought it looked like a good application... the home is approx 24 years old.....and no problems anywhere with the stucco.

Thank ya Sir

Best

PS: I.m assuming that lathe is steel and not aluminum...???

PPS: Oh chit...now it's back thru that labarinth of trusses...all the way to the end of the house....why the heck did I not do this in winter.

 

[ClarenceBauer]

Thank You Clarence......

That's exactly what I feared with a recep......

I was pretty sure there was a pro hole saw for the job....and probably more $ than the two fans....and I don't really see any other likely application for me.

Without knowing stucco per se....I thought it looked like a good application... the home is approx 24 years old.....and no problems anywhere with the stucco.

Thank ya Sir

Best

PS: I.m assuming that lathe is steel and not aluminum...???

PPS: Oh chit...now it's back thru that labarinth of trusses...all the way to the end of the house....why the heck did I not do this in winter.

The Lath is Galvanized 3/8" high Rib it's weight is 3.4 pounds per SQ. yard.

 

[dj3]

What will you use to support the electrical box and fan?
I use a 2x block across 2 joists, or you can use an expanding metal support as well.

 

[Windows on Wash]

I always prefer wood if you have that much access and a bunch of it.

 

[miamicuse]

You have access from above and below so there are some choices.


The easiest, fastest is a 4" diamond hole saw. But that is going to be costly.


You can also use an angle grinder with a 3" diamond blade and that will cut fast too, but easier to cut a straight square hole then finish with stucco later then trying to get a circular or octagon cut with lots of overcut slits.



If you do decide to cut the hole, whether it's using an OMT, or a drill with a hole saw, or grinder, it will be A LOT of cement dust. Standing below it will rain down and turn you into a snowman. Doing the cut above the entire attic will be filled with a cloud. Not fun either way.


I would use 2X lumber between existing joists to support the new fan box.


Just be aware because it's a stucco soffit the top side of that stucco is uneven and bumpy, so your 2X will not be able to sit perfectly flush to the stucco all the way across.


I have an adjustable hole saw, it's designed to cut sheetrock, cement board, or T1-11 plywood cut out holes for recess light installation. It has a shield like an inverted hat, that sits flush against the ceiling when you start the cut with a drill, and it's like a compass with two arms where you use set screws to adjust the diameter, can go from 2" to 8", and you change the dual blades depending on the materials to cut. It will cut sheetrock, not sure it will cut stucco. It may not. That may be an option too if you can borrow one with the right blades.


A final option is to go with a surface mount box. You only need to drill a small hole to accommodate a romex wire. The fan rated box can still be mounted through the stucco and lath to the bracing you install on the top side with longer screws.

 

[MTN REMODEL LLC]

MIAM,WINDOWS,DJ, Clarence.....

Thanks for the ideas....always good to consider all options.....

Miam...Yes I've seen those inverted "hats" for drywall.....pretty sure that "drill bit" dealy would not cut stucco and clearly not metal.....and a surface mount is aesthetically not satisfactory.

I'm in a pretty small town, but I will check if ACE rents a diamond 4". I don't know many subs or a stucco crew that might have one...sure would be neater easier.

I'll suck it up and probably cut from the top with mask/fan....PIA in lower parts of truss.....maybe I'll cut some from below....have to find a 10' step,,,only have an 8.

I'll use a x-member 2X, and my 70lb box should (if stucco not too thick ?)allow me offset below the stucco out flush with the ceiling....end nail x-member and a couple of hangers.

WINDOWS.... I just had my daughter (who has Prime) last night order those exact diamond blades you highlighted...alll I had for diamond in my ossilating box was a big circle and a triangle diamond, and thought those sweep might be nice to have...Thanks

Best

Peter

 

[miamicuse]

diamond hole saw would be best, but you could also use carbide grit hole saw, not as fast but I have used a carbide grit hole saw to go through concrete blocks with no issue.


I know surface mount boxes are not the most appealing, but they do have low profile pancake boxes that's fan rated only 1/2" deep that will give you the "almost flush" look.

 

[ClarenceBauer]

MIAM,WINDOWS,DJ, Clarence.....

Thanks for the ideas....always good to consider all options.....

Miam...Yes I've seen those inverted "hats" for drywall.....pretty sure that "drill bit" dealy would not cut stucco and clearly not metal.....and a surface mount is aesthetically not satisfactory.

I'm in a pretty small town, but I will check if ACE rents a diamond 4". I don't know many subs or a stucco crew that might have one...sure would be neater easier.

I'll suck it up and probably cut from the top with mask/fan....PIA in lower parts of truss.....maybe I'll cut some from below....have to find a 10' step,,,only have an 8.

I'll use a x-member 2X, and my 70lb box should (if stucco not too thick ?)allow me offset below the stucco out flush with the ceiling....end nail x-member and a couple of hangers.

WINDOWS.... I just had my daughter (who has Prime) last night order those exact diamond blades you highlighted...alll I had for diamond in my ossilating box was a big circle and a triangle diamond, and thought those sweep might be nice to have...Thanks

Best

Peter

DON'T cut from the top you will pop some of the finish off around the cut.

 

[MTN REMODEL LLC]

DON'T cut from the top you will pop some of the finish off around the cut.

Clarence... I was planning on "scoring" initiating the cut from below for maybe 1/8 to 1/4 depth.....but one of my problems is working continuously overhead...(I can't even throw a football/softball overhand.)

If I just chip the stucco I can repair...but if I'm likely to knock chunks out and rip it up...that I don't want.

Called ACE, no rental. Looked online, and can get a carbide tip or a carbide grit hole saw around $25-30.

Do you think either carbide tooth or carbide grit would handle the stucco and lathe.??????????????

When I've drilled pilot holes in stucco , seems to me that stucco is just pretty close to 2500-3500 PSI concrete. Is that about right....?

(PS, I would not use my bulldog on hammer/drill either way.)


Thanks again....

 

[ClarenceBauer]

Ok if you score it 1/6 inch on bottom side than drill a small hole in each corner than cut from the top.
That looks like a sand float finish & the finish coating would be no more than 3/16" , as for the PSI 2500 would be tops My guess is it would be somewhere between 750 & 1800 PSI max. based a standard mix design.
Looking from the back side & how nice the Stucco keyed thru the Rib lath it mostly was a type "N" mix.

 

[MTN REMODEL LLC]

Called ACE, no rental. Looked online, and can get a carbide tip or a carbide grit hole saw around $25-30.

Do you think either carbide tooth or carbide grit would handle the stucco and lathe.??????????????

TIA

 

[miamicuse]

Called ACE, no rental. Looked online, and can get a carbide tip or a carbide grit hole saw around $25-30.

Do you think either carbide tooth or carbide grit would handle the stucco and lathe.??????????????

TIA

I think the carbide grit saw can cut through stucco. I have used one to cut through concrete. But not sure about the metal lath. The carbide grit is kind of a rough blunt hole saw, so I am guessing it will have trouble with the metal. Does it have to though? If you cut from below to the metal, then from above to the metal, then the metal can be cut with a tinsnip pretty easily.

 

[miamicuse]

Yet another option is a rotozip with a carbide bit will cut stucco or cement boards. Not sure about the metal lath though as I have only cut rock lath with one.

 

[fawefa44]

You should use the latest brand of circular saw tools. the reviews of the best circular saw tool.

 

[MTN REMODEL LLC]

You should use the latest brand of circular saw tools. the reviews of the best circular saw tool.

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