[demonical]

Hey all! So for some background. I'm currently working on a large dining room, with 9 windows and 2 french doors.

I'm now down to the trim and window painting. I'm doing BM Aura Simply White on the walls in matte, and BM Advanced Simply White semi-gloss on the trim. I love the look of a smooth sprayed trim finish, but planned on trying to brush it since I didn't have an airless sprayer. Several days ago though my local paint store was trying to unload a couple Graco sprayers since they're dropping Graco and going just Titan. So I was able to snag a new Graco 390 for $500. I picked up Graco FFLP 208 and 310 tips. I'm spraying Zinsser Cover Stain on the wood trim, and I'm really happy with the finish I got with the 208 tip, but I have a few questions I haven't been able to find direct answers to...


1. When I've removed the interior doors and spray them horizontally, I get a few drips but not enough to worry me. Nonetheless, what's the best way to handle drips when spraying - do you guys use a little foam roller to roll them in wet, or do you wait until fully dried and then sand them down?


2. Many sections of the trim have grooves. If I try to keep the paint coating light, it doesn't penetrate into the grooves, as seen on the doorway trim (sorry it got flipped sideways in the conversion). I don't want to try to lay so much in that it starts pooling around the edges though. Do you guys just wait until dry and then make another light pass over grooved areas to get deeper coverage?


3. What's the most efficient way to clean the sprayer after running oil based primer through it? I ran paint thinner through, but I ended up using quite a bit just to get it clear, before then running hot water through it. Am I really going to have to use a quart of thinner to clean the thing each time I spray it?



4. The graco instructions talk about using a ground clamp wire on the paint pale. I understand the reasoning and the precaution against building up static charge especially while spraying oil based, but I don't see people doing this. Are they just being careless or am I missing something?


5. I understand how to prime the sprayer with Pump Armor for storage, but what do you guys do for shorter durations like a day or a week between uses?


Thanks all,
Austin

 

[Bud9051]

Welcome to the forum but sorry to say, far too long for me to tackle, I like short and to the point.

Best,
Bud

 

[demonical]

Thanks Bud, and fair enough, my apologies. I tried to put my questions at the end but thought I should preface with some background so I wasn't pulling an eat and run.

 

[Bud9051]

Sit tight the pros will be along. Are you doing just that one room? I have a SW419 and after the one monster project I bought it for I haven't dared to fire it up, way too big for all but empty rooms with new construction, IMO.

I'll follow
Bud

 

[woodco]

1. If they start to run, yes, use a little foam roller to lessen it. However, if youre laying them down and still getting runs, you are spraying WAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYY too heavy.

2. What grooves?? if youre talking about two peices of wood, then you need to caulk it. If you are talking about wood grain, than no, spraying will not fill it. That is a more in depth conversation.

3. Yeah, it takes a crapload of mineral spirits to clean oil base. Pros have a dedicated oil sprayer for that stuff, or at the very least, a dedicated spray hose. Theres no shortcuts there. I've been there. I used one sprayer for latex, oil and lacquer. it costs a TON of money in solvents going from one to the other. live with it....

4. pay no attention to that.

5. Pump armor is only needed if you are storing a pump for very long periods (weeks/months) in water. Its absolutely not needed if mineral spirits are in it. Not needed if its gonna be used within a few days or weeks. I am skeptical if its even needed at all, but I do it anyway, and i store my sprayer for months between spraying sometimes. basically, just use it when you are done with the job.

 

[demonical]

Thanks Woodco. I should have been more clear regarding the grooving. I didn't mean between two pieces of wood or the grain. I meant some of the trim has a deep profile creating crevices that can be difficult to get even coverage in with the spray. I wasn't sure if it's just a matter of doing another coat in those areas or if it should be brushed in.

 

[mark sr]

The more irregular the surface the less effective spray only will be. The only way to completely paint grooves or rough surfaces is to back brush/roll. I generally spray doors standing up. It's better to deal with a run/drip while wet than have to sand it when dry.



I use gallons of thinner when I clean up a pump after using oil base. Some of it can be stored and reused for first rinse if you are so inclined. I always store my pumps with thinner in the system.

 

[woodco]

I would caulk those grooves...

 

[carpdad]

About reusing the solvent, I read long time ago about letting the thinner stand and the paint to settle to the bottom. Then pour off clearer top. Not sure why you are using oil base primer for interior doors.

 

[cocomonkeynuts]

About reusing the solvent, I read long time ago about letting the thinner stand and the paint to settle to the bottom. Then pour off clearer top. Not sure why you are using oil base primer for interior doors.

Oil base primer is almost universally recommended to go over previously stained/varnished surfaces.

 

[cocomonkeynuts]

Hey all! So for some background. I'm currently working on a large dining room, with 9 windows and 2 french doors.

I'm now down to the trim and window painting. I'm doing BM Aura Simply White on the walls in matte, and BM Advanced Simply White semi-gloss on the trim. I love the look of a smooth sprayed trim finish, but planned on trying to brush it since I didn't have an airless sprayer. Several days ago though my local paint store was trying to unload a couple Graco sprayers since they're dropping Graco and going just Titan. So I was able to snag a new Graco 390 for $500. I picked up Graco FFLP 208 and 310 tips. I'm spraying Zinsser Cover Stain on the wood trim, and I'm really happy with the finish I got with the 208 tip, but I have a few questions I haven't been able to find direct answers to...


1. When I've removed the interior doors and spray them horizontally, I get a few drips but not enough to worry me. Nonetheless, what's the best way to handle drips when spraying - do you guys use a little foam roller to roll them in wet, or do you wait until fully dried and then sand them down?


2. Many sections of the trim have grooves. If I try to keep the paint coating light, it doesn't penetrate into the grooves, as seen on the doorway trim (sorry it got flipped sideways in the conversion). I don't want to try to lay so much in that it starts pooling around the edges though. Do you guys just wait until dry and then make another light pass over grooved areas to get deeper coverage?


3. What's the most efficient way to clean the sprayer after running oil based primer through it? I ran paint thinner through, but I ended up using quite a bit just to get it clear, before then running hot water through it. Am I really going to have to use a quart of thinner to clean the thing each time I spray it?



4. The graco instructions talk about using a ground clamp wire on the paint pale. I understand the reasoning and the precaution against building up static charge especially while spraying oil based, but I don't see people doing this. Are they just being careless or am I missing something?


5. I understand how to prime the sprayer with Pump Armor for storage, but what do you guys do for shorter durations like a day or a week between uses?


Thanks all,
Austin

1)Advance is tricky to spray sometimes, if you are getting runs you are putting it on way too heavy. Move faster. If you find small bubbles you can thin advance with a cupful of mineral spirits/thinner. Watch xc painter spray advance:

2)caulk the grooves.


3) cleaning the sprayer: Its best to have a dedicated solvent pump or at least a separate line. The reason is that running solvents can loosen up dried latex material in your line and all of a sudden you have little bits of latex in your finish. Easiest way to clean is to separate your thinner in 3 buckets. And one waste bucket.



First bucket is for a general flush. Place prime tube and gun into waste bucket.
Run about a quart of thinner through the pump, take out filters and clean them. Clean off the intake tube and rock guard.


Replace filters and move intake tube to second bucket of thinner. Repeat process run about a quart of thinner through pump, cycle between prime and spray setting into the waste bucket. Remove and check filters. Make sure everything looks clean.


Move intake tube to third bucket, run about a quart into the waste bucket then cycle the remaining material. Should be running clear.


After this is done flush with water.


4) most people don't run a ground wire. Only ever seen an issue spraying lacquer. The 390 has open motor windings so use at your own risk


5) You can leave it stored indefinitely with mineral spirits. I keep mine stored in propylene glycol antifreeze but its fine to leave it in water if you made sure to flush it properly. Dried paint can make the intake balls stick.


More important is that you keep the piston rod lubricated with TSL everytime you use the pump.

 

[demonical]

My sincere thanks guys, and especially to the pros, for taking time to selflessly contribute some of the skills and input from years in trade. And thanks for the vid link @cocomonkeynuts, that's the type of trim finish I'm trying for. I think I wasn't clear though in describing the 'grooves' that some of you said to caulk. I understand caulking trim edges and where trim meets. I was referring to the deeper router profiles intentionally cut into the trim profile design, and attached a picture with arrows pointing to examples. I don't want to loose the trim detail by filling it with excess paint or caulk and was asking whether the best coverage comes from using a small brush to work in the wet paint into the trim detail vs going over with additional spray passes.

I also now see why others have commented on Cover Stain not being easy to sand. Even after 48 hours, a light sanding in blemish spots with a coarse grit tends to gum it up. It's now taking me some time to mask out all the window panes, but will update of course.

 

[Gymschu]

Nothing wrong with spraying, but, man just to do a mantle, look at all the prep needed, from plastic to cover everything to set up/clean up, changing over from the BIN primer to finish coats of paint. That's a lot of work!!! I mean, I'm sure he was spraying more than just a mantle that day, but always be aware that you rarely save as much time as you think you will by spraying.

 

[demonical]

Nothing wrong with spraying, but, man just to do a mantle, look at all the prep needed, from plastic to cover everything to set up/clean up, changing over from the BIN primer to finish coats of paint. That's a lot of work!!! I mean, I'm sure he was spraying more than just a mantle that day, but always be aware that you rarely save as much time as you think you will by spraying.

Oh I understand spraying will actually take me more time here and is going to be more work. But I've wanted to try it for that sprayed finish look.

 

[woodco]

My sincere thanks guys, and especially to the pros, for taking time to selflessly contribute some of the skills and input from years in trade. And thanks for the vid link @cocomonkeynuts, that's the type of trim finish I'm trying for. I think I wasn't clear though in describing the 'grooves' that some of you said to caulk. I understand caulking trim edges and where trim meets. I was referring to the deeper router profiles intentionally cut into the trim profile design, and attached a picture with arrows pointing to examples. I don't want to loose the trim detail by filling it with excess paint or caulk and was asking whether the best coverage comes from using a small brush to work in the wet paint into the trim detail vs going over with additional spray passes.

I also now see why others have commented on Cover Stain not being easy to sand. Even after 48 hours, a light sanding in blemish spots with a coarse grit tends to gum it up. It's now taking me some time to mask out all the window panes, but will update of course.

Its only gumming up because you put it on too heavy. Whenever I prime with coverstain or something similar, its sands to a powder in a few hours, cuz I put it on light.

As far as your 'grooves,' you shouldnt have a problem getting paint in there. You spray slightly angeled one pass, and angled the other way the next pass.

The only time I've ever had to backbrush trim, is if its oak. I will back brush or roll the primer to get the paint in the grain.

 

[cocomonkeynuts]

Nothing wrong with spraying, but, man just to do a mantle, look at all the prep needed, from plastic to cover everything to set up/clean up, changing over from the BIN primer to finish coats of paint. That's a lot of work!!! I mean, I'm sure he was spraying more than just a mantle that day, but always be aware that you rarely save as much time as you think you will by spraying.

He sprayed all the other cabinets and trim on that job with cabinetcoat in another video.

 

[demonical]

Its only gumming up because you put it on too heavy. Whenever I prime with coverstain or something similar, its sands to a powder in a few hours, cuz I put it on light.

As far as your 'grooves,' you shouldnt have a problem getting paint in there. You spray slightly angeled one pass, and angled the other way the next pass.

The only time I've ever had to backbrush trim, is if its oak. I will back brush or roll the primer to get the paint in the grain.

Got it, thank you

 

[demonical]

I just wanted to update and say thanks again. I finished the windows, doors, and trim work, and achieved exactly the finish I wanted (well the horizontal doors had some texturing, I think from spraying them laying down and having spray bounce and land, but it's minor enough that I'm not concerned). As expected, it took me awhile - the time to do all the masking, filling, caulking, etc. I can't imagine how skilled pros have to be to be able to do all this and still turn a profit, my hat's off.

I also see why people try to avoid spraying oil. Even though I love the result, it's not something I'd look forward to doing again. Assuming I were to still spot prime things like knots or water stains with oil, has anyone tried spraying alternatives like the BIN Advanced or Fresh Start Superior 046 on wood trim?

 

[cocomonkeynuts]

I just wanted to update and say thanks again. I finished the windows, doors, and trim work, and achieved exactly the finish I wanted (well the horizontal doors had some texturing, I think from spraying them laying down and having spray bounce and land, but it's minor enough that I'm not concerned). As expected, it took me awhile - the time to do all the masking, filling, caulking, etc. I can't imagine how skilled pros have to be to be able to do all this and still turn a profit, my hat's off.

I also see why people try to avoid spraying oil. Even though I love the result, it's not something I'd look forward to doing again. Assuming I were to still spot prime things like knots or water stains with oil, has anyone tried spraying alternatives like the BIN Advanced or Fresh Start Superior 046 on wood trim?

Neither waterborne bin or 046 sands that great. Real BIN or BM217 are the way to go. Lenmar 1WB.200 waterborne undercoater can be used on new mill work and sands great. Stix sands great but no stain blocking

 

[davidch]

I just wanted to update and say thanks again. I finished the windows, doors, and trim work, and achieved exactly the finish I wanted (well the horizontal doors had some texturing, I think from spraying them laying down and having spray bounce and land, but it's minor enough that I'm not concerned). As expected, it took me awhile - the time to do all the masking, filling, caulking, etc. I can't imagine how skilled pros have to be to be able to do all this and still turn a profit, my hat's off.

I also see why people try to avoid spraying oil. Even though I love the result, it's not something I'd look forward to doing again. Assuming I were to still spot prime things like knots or water stains with oil, has anyone tried spraying alternatives like the BIN Advanced or Fresh Start Superior 046 on wood trim?

i know this thread is fairly old... but just wanted to say good work. i have been spraying as DIYer for about 5 years and own a Graco 390, Graco X5 and Graco Ultra Handheld. completely painted my mom's house top to bottom to sale several years back and it had really not been painted in 20 yrs. due to just general age and mustiness, i decided to to BIN shellac primer on all the walls and ceiling and coverstain oil on the cabinets. like you i will never mess with oil again and much prefer BIN and dealing with the alchol vs mineral spirits, etc. since then i have tried a lot of different water primers including BM 046 high hide and much prefer SW wall and wood. it levels better and sands much, much better (almost like oil or BIN). for applications where i need better durability or tannin concerns i use BIN. as far as the masking, etc you get quicker over time and having some tools like a 3M masker and Zip poles, etc can help a lot.