[Henley5]

Hey All,

I’m brand new to the forum and I do a lot of electrical work around my home. I have not had any experience with this type of setup or working with the outdoor panels off of the meter so I have a couple questions.

I’m looking to add a new 30A RV box to my home, and I have a question about my method. This outside panel has a 20A gfci wired in below that was put in by the electrician when the heat pump was installed. I’d like to know if it is acceptable to replace the 20A breaker with a 30A and then run 10-2 wire to a new 30A RV box? Does it make more sense to use one of the open breaker slots and add the 30A breaker and run if from that? Thanks for your responses!

 

[Fishbulb28]

This outside panel has a 20A gfci wired in below that was put in by the electrician when the heat pump was installed. I’d like to know if it is acceptable to replace the 20A breaker with a 30A and then run 10-2 wire to a new 30A RV box?

The receptacle was likely installed because there was not a suitable service receptacle in place for the heat pump. This receptacle is required so you'll need to leave it as is.

Does it make more sense to use one of the open breaker slots and add the 30A breaker and run if from that?

Yes, this is what you'll need to do. If you're worried about running out of panel space you may be able to use tandem breakers for any future additions.

 

[seharper]

OP is this a 120V travel trailer/mini-RV that uses the diagonal-blade TT30 socket? Or is it a midsize RV that uses the 4-prong NEMA 14-30 or L14-30? If the first, then you're on track, but what Fishbulb said about the existing.

I would look at your receptacle in the store and see whether it can sit next to a GFCI in a 2-gang box. (or a 3-gang?) If it can, I'd pull off that box and change it to 2-gang. Then stick both in it. (separate circuits of course).

If you're worried about running out of panel space you may be able to use tandem breakers for any future additions.

LOL don't count on it. WA drinks heavy out of the NFPA kool-aid bowl. They already adopted NEC 2020 and it takes effect July 1. Goodbye tandems/quads.

 

[rjniles]

OP is this a 120V travel trailer/mini-RV that uses the diagonal-blade TT30 socket? Or is it a midsize RV that uses the 4-prong NEMA 14-30 or L14-30? If the first, then you're on track, but what Fishbulb said about the existing.

I would look at your receptacle in the store and see whether it can sit next to a GFCI in a 2-gang box. (or a 3-gang?) If it can, I'd pull off that box and change it to 2-gang. Then stick both in it. (separate circuits of course).



LOL don't count on it. WA drinks heavy out of the NFPA kool-aid bowl. They already adopted NEC 2020 and it takes effect July 1. Goodbye tandems/quads.

I have never seen a RV with a 14-30. They are either TT-30, 120V or 14-50 120/240V.

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[J. V.]

Install correct two pole breaker and run new circuit to desired location.
Its always easier to run new. Always.

 

[rjniles]

Install correct two pole breaker and run new circuit to desired location.
Its always easier to run new. Always.

Careful John, a 30 amp RV circuit is 120 volt, single pole breaker.

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[NCmountainCabin]

there's no such thing as a '4-prong' 30amp RV outlet, only 50amp RVs use a 240v 4-prong 14-50 outlet...

most of any RVs can use a 30amp 120v hot, netural, ground wired outlet - it's just like most any household outlet, as it's 120v, but it uses larger wires, and a special 3-prong outlet layout - but it's still a simple 120v outlet.

the confusion can sometimes be that many think that a 'clothes dryer' 3-prong 240v outlet is the same 30amp outlet wiring that an RV uses - but, NO, it is not.