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Discussion Starter #41
Well just got my Dry-Wall Jack delivered and was simple to put together with out no tools . Got my mud pans, 6" and 12" knifes , sanding disk and blocks , Dry-Wall Kicker, Dry-Wall Screw's and Bit's and just got to pick up some tape and mud and should be all set for my project.
 

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Wow,reading some of the replies if your not a taper maybe would be best not to give advice even with the best intentions. Pre-mix mud or dry powder- ok the mud you have to mix that is in a bag has a particular job it is fast setting mud comes in 20minute 30 45 90 120 its good say on cold wet day or for filling gaps in the rock called back filling and you use for just taping joints it is very hard to sand and is very gritty makes a bad looking finish thats why there is topping compound (pre mixed) the last coat to top joints,nail rows it spreads easy and super easy to sand good for skim coats and puddy coating but overnight dry time do not use for taping it will fail- all purpose joint compound is also pre mixed and you use this for "embedding tape" you can also use it to top joints and you can use it for texture that is why its called all purpose also you can use forced air or fans to dry out the mud- as for tape use the yellow mesh tape on bigger gaps or gaps you can use on any joint but paper will flex and holds back stress cracks better - I like paper tape and i use this most times submerge the paper tape in water no joke it has tiny holes in it and the holes open up more when wet you can see the mud pass thru all the tiny little perforations- 3 coats minimum are need to level out and give a smooth appearance start with either a 6" or 4" broad knife then go wider like 8" 10" knife even 14" on non factory joints- apply mud push in tape hold 1 end up a lil so it wont wrinkle now wipe off almost all the mud -remember it is easier to do light skim coats then to sand - taping is a skilled trade and takes many years of doing it to make all the joints and flaws go away (sorry for the long msg lol)
 

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i never use the tape with all the little hole in it. it sucks. i only use cgc paper tape. and i've never heard anybody wetting the tape. i've never had any issues with putting dry tape on. you can use any premixed compound for bedding tape but you take a chance getting bubbles. i use only green lid tape for bedding tape.
 

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Prince if you wet the tape the way he says it almost eliminates air bubbles under the tape.
 

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Wow,reading some of the replies if your not a taper maybe would be best not to give advice...submerge the paper tape in water no joke it has tiny holes in it and the holes open up more when wet
Unless that technique is published in a book or is in the instructions that come with the materials, I'd not do that. The manufacturers of paper tape with holes surely put thought into the proper hole size. Someone claimed that thinning the mud isn't necessary, and now it's claimed that it's good to totally wet the tape. Complete opposites. I suggest taking a book out of the library. That's what I did.
 

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Well, I am no professional taper but this is what I have done. I have installed and taped probably 500 sheets of drywall.

There is a product for inside corners called Shur-corner. It keeps a great inside straight vertical corner. It is embedded with aluminum and works great. 1 coat to put it up and then 2 coats to finish -Done.

Outside corners I used to use the metal corner bead. I recently,have moved to the vinyl simply out of ease. Spray glue and its not moving. It also accepts a bump or 2 a little better than the metal corner bead does. In addition I like to use the rounded bullnose on corners that will get a lot of traffic. Also gives the areas a softer feel, paints up nice, and my customers have liked it.

I always start with green lid and finish with the blue lid. I rarely have gaps bigger than 1/4" so filling is not that big of a problem(I am not perfect but I try not to leave big gaps in my drywall)
Just myn2 cents. The pros are way better than me, so .....
 

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OK if you ask most pro's about wetting the tape they will say NO. But remember when pro's go in to do a house they have all the tools like mud boxes and bazookas. Usually 1 guy puts it on and another comes along right behind and takes it off. Also they use hot mud on their first and sometimes 2nd coats. Now the DIYer usually does this by himself and he gets a bucket of All Purpose and goes at it. The problem being if he uses the mud right out of the bucket and does not thin it, it becomes thick and hard to pull, and to get smooth under the tape. This can also happen if he gets a little slow, it can start to thicken. If you get high spots under the tape and it dries they are hard to deal with. You really can't sand them down because you will have to sand thru the tape. Now if you wet your tape and pull it between your fingers to get the excess off it won't be much wetter than when you put it over wet mud or you put wet mud on top of it. And it gives you the advantage of being able to get a nice smooth line under your tape.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
All right got some pic's of my project before I start, I'm using my Dry-Wall Jack for a coat rack for now and the plastic that I was told by the inspector that has to be removed before I hang Dry-Wall.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Ok a couple of questions:
Lows has "paper tape" that is self stick has anyone tried , is it any good? They also have inside corner bead that's made with paper and metal?

Should I fill gaps first that are 1/8 inch wide then sand it before laying tape? I have some powder mud {couple of cups} of 45 an 90 set to fill the gap's with
 

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Ok a couple of questions:
Lows has "paper tape" that is self stick has anyone tried , is it any good? They also have inside corner bead that's made with paper and metal?

Should I fill gaps first that are 1/8 inch wide then sand it before laying tape? I have some powder mud {couple of cups} of 45 an 90 set to fill the gap's with
Have never seen self stick paper tape don't see how it could work paper tape has to have mud under it and it wouldn't be possible. Also have seen the paper and metal corner bead but only for outside corners. And no you don't have to fill or sand gaps that small your base coat will fill them
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Have never seen self stick paper tape don't see how it could work paper tape has to have mud under it and it wouldn't be possible. Also have seen the paper and metal corner bead but only for outside corners. And no you don't have to fill or sand gaps that small your base coat will fill them

http://www.walltools.com/hyde-joint-tape-perforated.html
It's like this made of paper you peel and stick. Don't know the brand name that Lows sells it's not on there web page.
 
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