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The old step had more character.
 

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After thought comments:

A little deeper top tread area would provide a and safer and more comfortable situation.

Is the spry foam foam there to prevent the area under the step from drying out? Water will enter between the treads and from the vinyl channel

Looks like good work that could be done quickly with minimum time and materials.

Dick
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
concretemasonry said:
After thought comments:

A little deeper top tread area would provide a and safer and more comfortable situation.

Is the spry foam foam there to prevent the area under the step from drying out? Water will enter between the treads and from the vinyl channel

Looks like good work that could be done quickly with minimum time and materials.

Dick
Correct

Overall he did a great job you think?
 

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Correct

Overall he did a great job you think?
No, he did not do a great job. He did the job of an uninformed handyman.
There is no flashing under the door and over the wood. So water will get behind the wood and rot the rim joist and sill plate
He has expanded foam oozing out the side of this step for some reason.
Expanded foam has no business being in an exposed situation. It will deteriorate exposed to the Sun and more water will get behind the step.
Over all, in my opinion, the guy should not be using tools.
He stays in business because he works for people who don't know the difference between a competant and a bad job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ron6519 said:
No, he did not do a great job. He did the job of an uniformed handyman.
There is no flashing under the door and over the wood. So water will get behind the wood and rot the rim joist and sill plate
He has expanded foam oozing out the side of this step for some reason.
Expanded foam has no business being in an exposed situation. It will deteriorate exposed to the Sun and more water will get behind the step.
Over all, in my opinion, the guy should not be using tools.
Actually we have Vulcam sealant all around. The foam is on top of the sealant just as an extra precautionary in that small area. >>>see my water issue thread.

As far as the flashing. Did you look at the old step pic where this OSB (which has Tyvek behind it) was exposed? He placed cedar over that....
 

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Now that I had a chance to read and think, I am glad I said it "LOOKS" like it is good workmanship, but after thinking, the planning and design was more minimal than I quicky thought originally. - The foam did bother me, but that was a good call on the flashing and moisture that has seemed to haunt this home for many reasons.

Dick
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
concretemasonry said:
Now that I had a chance to read and think, I am glad I said it "LOOKS" like it is good workmanship, but after thinking, the planning and design was more minimal than I quicky thought originally. - The foam did bother me, but that was a good call on the flashing and moisture that has seemed to haunt this home for many reasons.

Dick
Well....control joints on our poured concrete that drip small amounts of water on the cement floor .....drywall and baseboards which are dry..... has nothing to do with what your mentioning here. That's more of a grading issue or a small crack in the control joint where I might add epoxy injection to fix it.
 

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Actually we have Vulcam sealant all around. The foam is on top of the sealant just as an extra precautionary in that small area. >>>see my water issue thread.

As far as the flashing. Did you look at the old step pic where this OSB (which has Tyvek behind it) was exposed? He placed cedar over that....
Foam has no use in this allpication. None.
Putting wood under the door without flashing is wrong. I don't care what's in back of it. Tyvek will not keep water away from the sheathing.
You want to push this?
The house is maintenance free. He should have used composite board under the door, not cedar.
He put wood directly on the concrete and then left it exposed to the elements.
He should have applied composite to the bottom to keep the water off the wood.
He should have wrapped the step in composite to make the whole thing maintenance free.
And finally, this is a DIY forum. You've been here awile. This is a simple DIY project.
Why didn't you do it and why are you showing us a picture of a contractors(your term) work?
Posting half assed work by someone else and looking for an "at a boy" is a little pathetic.
 
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ATTA BOY............:eek:

How much did that cost?

ATTA BOY..............:huh:

Just another example of what kind of thoughtless workmanship is out there....:(
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ron6519 said:
Foam has no use in this allpication. None.
Putting wood under the door without flashing is wrong. I don't care what's in back of it. Tyvek will not keep water away from the sheathing.
You want to push this?
The house is maintenance free. He should have used composite board under the door, not cedar.
He put wood directly on the concrete and then left it exposed to the elements.
He should have applied composite to the bottom to keep the water off the wood.
He should have wrapped the step in composite to make the whole thing maintenance free.
And finally, this is a DIY forum. You've been here awile. This is a simple DIY project.
Why didn't you do it and why are you showing us a picture of a contractors(your term) work?
Posting half assed work by someone else and looking for an "at a boy" is a little pathetic.
Vs badgering people have a little respect man...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ron6519 said:
Foam has no use in this allpication. None.
Putting wood under the door without flashing is wrong. I don't care what's in back of it. Tyvek will not keep water away from the sheathing.
You want to push this?
The house is maintenance free. He should have used composite board under the door, not cedar.
He put wood directly on the concrete and then left it exposed to the elements.
He should have applied composite to the bottom to keep the water off the wood.
He should have wrapped the step in composite to make the whole thing maintenance free.
And finally, this is a DIY forum. You've been here awile. This is a simple DIY project.
Why didn't you do it and why are you showing us a picture of a contractors(your term) work?
Posting half assed work by someone else and looking for an "at a boy" is a little pathetic.
Keep water off wood? Lol
Wow I wonder how things like decks and Pergola's survive out there with the same type of treated wood. ....:)

I'm done here. Thx
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Generally how long do I wait before I can paint treated wood? Should I paint the Azek at the same time? How will Azek react to paint? What is the proper paint to use? Do I prime it first?
 

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Need help with more specifics on type of primer and type of paint.
Zinsser 123 for the primer and any "quality" acrylic paint for the top coat. Sherwin Williams "Super Paint" has always been my go too.

I'm no paint pro so post you're question in the painting section and my answer may not apply.

I can tell you this though...paint and primer in the same can is a bs marketing ploy... don't fall for that one.:no:
 
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