Ok guys I got a question for ya, my oven crapped out on me, so the new one the wife wants is rated at max 56.6 amps but the instructions say can be used 40 or 50amp (super confusing). The wiring to the stove location is #8 and it’s on a 40A breaker. So my question is, can I just wire a 50amp receptacle behind the stove and run a 40amp range cord ? And also will all this work on a 40amp circuit being the stove is rated max 56.6? Or should I just have the wife look for a lower amperage oven? Thanks guys....
New oven
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I’m not sure about the required neutral or preinstalled whip as we haven’t ordered it yet. The one wife really wants is the 50amp, oddly enough the 40amp model with less features is actually more expensive, by like 120 bucks. So if I can install this “50amp” oven on my 40amp circuit that would be ideal. If it’s not safe that’s a different story.
But I am pretty sure the wiring comes preinstalled , just have to wire a cord to it. The oven that just took a crap on us was 20 years old and had 4 wires, one being the neutral...
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Oven or stove/range? The terms are not interchangeable.
A 40A circuit is sufficient for a stove up to 16 kW (66A) at 240V.
A 40A circuit is sufficient for a stove up to 16 kW (66A) at 240V.
Sorry, it’s a range. Thanks for your reply. I guess the 56.6 amp max rating would be for the oven on at full power and all the burners on high for it to pull that much power, right ? Because if that’s the case, that’s a scenario that would likely never happen.
So to reiterate, I’m good to install a 50amp receptacle and range cord on a 40amp circuit ?
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Correct. And even if they should all be on at the same time it would not be for a long enough period to overtax the wiring.
Yes, perfectly fine.
Ok thank you!
Now this might be a dumb question with an obvious answer. So the 50 amp receptacle I’m going to install is 4 prong. So I’d need a 4 prong range cord. But I just looked at the specs in the manual for the range we’re thinking of buying and there’s only 3 wires coming out of it. So would I connect the ground wire from the cord to the receptacle box or have to connect it to the frame of the range?
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Do you mind posting the model number and mfg. of the range?
If it's a 4 wire plug the mfg. is using 120v somewhere...control, "dashboard" etc.
If it's a 4 wire plug the mfg. is using 120v somewhere...control, "dashboard" etc.
Not at all. It’s LG electronics model # LRE3194ST
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11,776 Posts
There will be a ground lug on your range.
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From what I see in the instructions you can use either 40 or 50 amps to power this oven and a 3 or 4 wire cord. I see no reason to change what you have. Your 40 amp breaker gives you 80 amps....the range is maxed out at 56.6. You will be hard pressed to even get there in any normal circumstance.
Just get the cord that fits your receptacle.
Just get the cord that fits your receptacle.
Yup. Range/oven provisioning is *super weird*. Because the 56.6A spec presumes every burner is on max and the oven is on preheat. However in reality everything will settle into cycling on and off to sustain desired temp. That will happen before the wires in the walls catch fire; they did the math
Yes, you have to use 50A receps because they don't make 40A receps.
That... is a throwback to the age before grounding. What you actually need is 4 wires - Hot Hot Neutral Ground. What was installed in 1946 was just Hot Hot Neutral. So, when grounding came out in the 1960s, appliance makers whined a lot about how they'd lose sales if people had to rewire their homes 4-wire. So they got NEC to grant an exception that let them continue using 3-wire ungrounded connections. They said "hey, for grounding, let's just ground the chassis to Neutral!" Which is called "bootlegging" anywhere else. And it's very dangerous. And it's dangerous for ranges too, but their logic was "people rarely disturb the wiring, so what could go wrong?" And the body count hasn't been *too* bad, so they were right.
But yeah, if it's your family, you want a 4-wire hookup.
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The manufacturers spec. sheet lists the power requirement as 208/240 volt. There is no mention of a 120 volt requirement. I don't trust that so it won't hurt to run a 4 cond. cord with the neutral connected at the wall box. You may end up nutting off the neutral of the cord inside the range, no big deal. They may be using a transformer to provide 120 for their control panel so they can sell this range to people with the old 3-wire service at the wall and not have to do the trick to connect it.
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No it does not. The stove is mostly a 240 device and he is using a 40 amp breaker. He has 40 amps.
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Crap......I hate brain farts:vs_mad:
Yup. Range/oven provisioning is *super weird*. Because the 56.6A spec presumes every burner is on max and the oven is on preheat. However in reality everything will settle into cycling on and off to sustain desired temp. That will happen before the wires in the walls catch fire; they did the math![]()
Yes, you have to use 50A receps because they don't make 40A receps.
That... is a throwback to the age before grounding. What you actually need is 4 wires - Hot Hot Neutral Ground. What was installed in 1946 was just Hot Hot Neutral. So, when grounding came out in the 1960s, appliance makers whined a lot about how they'd lose sales if people had to rewire their homes 4-wire. So they got NEC to grant an exception that let them continue using 3-wire ungrounded connections. They said "hey, for grounding, let's just ground the chassis to Neutral!" Which is called "bootlegging" anywhere else. And it's very dangerous. And it's dangerous for ranges too, but their logic was "people rarely disturb the wiring, so what could go wrong?" And the body count hasn't been *too* bad, so they were right.
But yeah, if it's your family, you want a 4-wire hookup.
Thanks for all the help guys. That’s what I’m going to do, just stay with the 40amp circuit and install a 50amp recep and 50amp range cord. This stuff can be pretty confusing. Appreciate the help.
The one question your not asking OP or presenting to the forum is: Why did your orginal stove "crap" out? What sound-load pop when it did not work? What working not working on the range?-
the oven, broil, surface elements, clock etc?
I have fixed many stoves where the control module (brains of most 21st century ranges) have a burnt out relay or a capacitor issue. As long as the trace circuit board conductors are not blown out are easy to desolder and resolder. Twice I found that the circuit was under-rated for the appliance.n Depending on module most ebay and appliance salvage yards can supply a control module for under $100.00 - make sure the board has been tested- another discussion.
So instead of making more landfill and buying an overpriced over useless feature oven/range- find the problem. You might discover other issues.
Next to stoves are the top 3 amp/current drawers in your home probably 1/3 of your electric bill when your wife is pumping out that banana bread.
Alternatives is to remove the range- add counter space and utilize a air/fryer convection appliance and if you like fire for surface cooking utilize a butane portable burner and or a portable induction cooktop countertop burner.
Think outside the big, bulky, electric hog fire tin your about to replace.
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