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Discussion Starter #1
I am thinking about replacing my current HVAC system to something of higher efficiency (and just new). What information should i share with you to get a better understanding of what qualities or systems i should look for.

I am in a 2700 sq ft house with an unfinished basement, main floor and upstairs.

My current system is a Trane XR90 (i believe). mfr in 2004.

According to this website, i am zone 6
http://greenzone.com/general.php?section_url=12

i dont think my current system is HE, as the intake pipe does not go outside, simple draws from the basement.

Thank you for your input on this.
 

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Hvac Pro
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XR 90 probably means 90% efficient as the XR80 is 80% and mid efficiency. You have a builders grade but not bad furnace that is only 8 yrs old and DOES NOT need replacing unless you have $$ burning a hole in your pocket. Any furnace over 90% is high efficient and most can use 1 0r 2 plastic vent pipes even the new ones today. As the builders go with 1 pipe to save $$ but I would not get rid of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for your reply Yuri. So i really dont need to replace it, eh. Thats good, i get to save some money. When should i replace it? (ie, not being broken and all)
 

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AKA HVACTECHFW
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wait till it's broken to replace it. You have a good furnace. Your furnace can be made more efficient (not use conditioned air for combustion) by installing the intake pipe to the outside. This should be done according to the manual though. It's not just hooking the pipe up and shoving it through the wall or roof.
 

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8 years old does not mean that it is broke. Our unit is going on 8 years, and still runs strong. As long as you maintain it, change the filters on a regular basis, you are fine with it. There are units that are over 40 years old still going strong.
 

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Depending on whether you live in a wide open house or I hear in TO the row houses are reall close together. If the houses are real close together then the exhaust can hit the next one and recirc back to the intake pipe and the furnace won't run with exhaust coming in. Mostly they don't want to drill another hole and use more pipe so they go 1 pipe. Post some pics of the venting where it exits the house. I doubt you will notice a huge NRG saving and having to pay someone several hundred $$ to redo it will never pay for itself in fuel. Ontario is VERY strict about codes with the TSA or whatever they call it monitoring contractors so I WOULD NOT redo it myself for liability reasons. May need a permit and re-inspection if you alter the venting as that is legal venting not DIY stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanx for the input everyone. I am not going to do anything. I may however, get a licensed professional to have the intake vent outside (as oppose to its current indoor, basement, location).

Thank you again.
 

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The more efficient the more fragile,costly

it will be to own, the variable speed DC motors they use to get the 90%+ are $600 rather than $75 as the old AC polarity motors are, sure they save while you run it only to be lost in $300+ induced draft motors, proving devices, $300 ignition modules, $400 circuit boards, etc etc, remember prior to 1078 did you ever think about the furnace? nope and if you did it was a thermocouple for $15 at ACE hardware anyone can install and 30+ yrs service, todays units never last 1/2 that long.
 
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