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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had new Kronotex designer series laminate flooring installed in my kitchen and dining room recently. After 6 weeks two places of the floor, which is installed on top of sheet vinyl on a slab, is buckling in two places. The installer can't be reached by phone but I'm still trying. The laminate is 0.315" thick but I think does not have enough gap at the walls. What to do to get it flat again? The new look is great but I can feel the buckled spots when I walk.
 

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First have cut the flooring back on the edges.
Then if your real lucky tapping it with a white rubber mallet may lock it back in place.
If not then your looking at remove and reinstalling the floor.
(laminate was a poor choice for a kitchen floor, one water event and it's trash)
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
new floor buckling

Joecaption,

What is best method to cut back the flooring? Is a knife enough to cut it? Or does it take a special saw? I can get to it by pulling off the shoe molding, and the base molding is higher up the wall now since it was put back in place.
 

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#1 This is the installers job if really is to close to the bottom plates or baseboards.
Try to get him to do it first.
How close is it? What's the manufacture say the gap should be?
I've used a Crain Toe Kick saw with a blade that only cuts 3/8 deep. Need less then 12" wide strips of plywood to run the saw on.
Google it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Joecaption,
I've not heard of a toe kick saw. Where do you get them? I'm still going to contact the guy who installed the floor. (He brought his son, neither spoke much English). BTW, what is a yellow rubber hammer? Same as a rubber mallet?
Thanks for your help!
 

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Toe Kick, Google it, Home Depot rents them.
Yellow? I said white, really want black marks on a floor from a black mallet?
Looked up the install directions on that brand of flooring to see what gap was supposed to be there?
 
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