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· JOATMON
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After last weekends debacle with the kitchen plumbing which resulted in the partial destruction of the front wall of the house, it's time to move up the start of our next project....re-facing the front of the house.

Our current front face is 1x6 T&G boards nailed to the front framing. Between the wood and framing is just a single sheet of tar paper.

The reface is going to include a new and larger kitchen window...sort of like a garden window but shaped like our bay window (I hate the boxy style). The bottom 3 feet of the reface will be ledger stone and the remaining James Hardie cement board..lap style.

Besides replacing the kitchen window, I want to also inspect the framing and repair any termite damage (and rat's nests), install/replace insulation (house walls were not originally insulated) and install a couple of outlets that would be difficult to install from inside the house.

My 'initial' plan after demo....

1. Install 1/2 cement backer board for the first 3' or so (even with the bottom of the bay window). I'd install 30lb tar paper behind the backer board as the vapor layer.

2. Install OSB above the backer board. Cover that with tar paper as the vapor barrier....(I suspect my inspector would want 2 layers of builders paper...that is what they use for stucco). The Hardie cement board would be nailed to the OSB.

The above is pretty straight forward. But I'm not sure how to do other parts.

For the ledger stone.....my bottom plate is flush with the foundation stem wall. So I'm thinking the backer board would extend maybe an inch below this? But don't I need something to act as a ledge for the first row of ledger stone to sit on? Or does the thin set (mortar) do enough to hold it?

I'm assuming I need a drip cap between the top of the ledger stone and first row of Hardie? Looking at the 'layers'....framing....OSB....drip cap....tar paper overlapping the nail flange...then Hardie.

Am I headed in the right direction?

But before I start any of this....I need to get the kitchen window done. It's going to be a custom setup....I need to find out if they will build the whole thing the way I want or if I have to build a steel frame and attach the window sections to it.

Sorry about the 'funny' looking front picture....just trying to give you an idea of what the ledger stone would look like.
 

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My 'initial' plan after demo....

1. Install 1/2 cement backer board for the first 3' or so (even with the bottom of the bay window). I'd install 30lb tar paper behind the backer board as the vapor layer.

2. Install OSB above the backer board. Cover that with tar paper as the vapor barrier....(I suspect my inspector would want 2 layers of builders paper...that is what they use for stucco). The Hardie cement board would be nailed to the OSB.



For the ledger stone.....my bottom plate is flush with the foundation stem wall. So I'm thinking the backer board would extend maybe an inch below this? But don't I need something to act as a ledge for the first row of ledger stone to sit on? Or does the thin set (mortar) do enough to hold it?

I'm assuming I need a drip cap between the top of the ledger stone and first row of Hardie? Looking at the 'layers'....framing....OSB....drip cap....tar paper overlapping the nail flange...then Hardie.

Am I headed in the right direction?
You do not need to install hardy backer. Your layers should be framing+osb+tar paper/vapor barrier + brick/rock.

you need a "brick ledge" to lay your brick/rock on.

here is a good example but most of what i have seen they would just use osb in place of the 1 1/2" rigid insulation.(i live in the desert.)
 

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Am in NJ and not a mason, and (apology) this guess work is based on youtube. But thinking of similar renovation and chiming in.
Instead of cement board, I'd use plywood. Weather shield or 2 layers 30 lb felt, wire lathe, scratch coat then whatever adhesive for the stones. Mike Haduck has videos where he recommends screws to anchor the stones. Ply will hold the screws better and 2 layers of felt becomes drainage plane. Installing drain cap on top of stones would protect the grout joints better. The bottom that close to ground, I'd seal the wood sill/foundation joint.
But, I'd welcome any response/critic/Don't!.:smile:
 
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