[Renoqueen]

Hello. I've referenced this forum numerous times but first time poster. Desperately need advice regarding hairline cracks in my new patio ceiling.

Background: 1973 ranch house in Florida (no freezing) on slab. Patio is approx 12' deep and 46' long. Nearly flat roof and three skylights are 1 1/2 yrs old. Patio structure is rolled roofing, plywood, 2x6 joists with blocking and insulation between, and finally a drywall ceiling. The entire structure is basically cantilevered off the house and is supported by 4x4 posts and a beam. Most homes in the neighborhood were built with patio drywall ceilings.

I'm remodeling most of the house myself but contracted out the drywall. I figured the original ceiling lasted 40 years until the owners defaulted and roof/skylights failed. I had new 4x12 purple board installed last month. (Too late to debate this decision now.) My drywall contractor used mesh tape and plenty of screws. He used 90 min and all purpose in a series of applications, though I'm not sure the specifics. Butt joints are staggered between runs.

Problem: Three hairline cracks appeared at butt joints on a windy day shortly after install. He caulked and re-mudded the cracks. I primed with PVA and painted this week with weather in the 80s. Today it dropped into the 50s for the first time and I'll swear the cracks were growing by the hour. What do I do?!?

I can't tear it down and start over. The tape isn't failing. It's like the entire patio is flexing and the butt joints are cracking. Is there an expansion joint that can be installed after the fact? Other options? Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

[gregzoll]

If the patio is moving during high winds, that means you have bigger issues at hand. If the patio was beefed up for structure, before the drywall was installed. You probably would never get the cracks.

 

[Renoqueen]

Thanks for the quick reply, Greg. I hear what you're saying about the structure. Strange thing is that both the roofing contractor and drywall contractor both commented on how well built the patio is. 2x6s on 12" centers with three blocks in a 12' span for every joist. Even the gabled roof sheathing for the main house is built with 1x6 boards instead of plywood. I mean, I suppose there could be a major structural problem but I just feel like I'm missing something related to normal thermal expansion of materials or weather changes etc. I don't recall the temp the day it was windy but windy can often mean a cooler front moving through. Is there anything I can check to confirm one way or the other?

 

[gregzoll]

You stated that the cracks did not form until a windy day. That means that the structure is moving. Your problem would not be caused by temp swing, unless it is really hot in there on a hot day.

If you want to go away from the Drywall, you can use wood. If you want to keep it, but do not want to tape the joints, there is edging that you can use, that does allow for some give.

I bet if you get the local football team to come over and start pushing on both ends back and forth, I am sure that you will see some movement of it.

 

[ToolSeeker]

Mesh tape has no strength if ANYTHING moved it will crack. What we use for these structures is Dura Bond in the brown bag (non sandable) which is by far the strongest. Then paper tape, then all purpose straight from the bucket, no thinning, usually 2 coats, then prime and paint. Even though we don't have the freezing the high humidity is a problem. Of course almost all of them are textured with knockdown also.

 

[ToolSeeker]

Mesh tape has no strength if ANYTHING moved it will crack. What we use for these structures is Dura Bond in the brown bag (non sandable) which is by far the strongest. Then paper tape, then all purpose straight from the bucket, no thinning, usually 2 coats, then prime and paint. Even though we don't have the freezing the high humidity is a problem. Of course almost all of them are textured with knockdown also.

Also your framing timbers will expand and contract with weather changes. This sounds like what may be happening. Also when you paint look into an elastomeric which will have a little give in it. A lot of them have stucco on the walls and the drywall is just on the ceilings.

 

[Renoqueen]

Mesh tape has no strength if ANYTHING moved it will crack. What we use for these structures is Dura Bond in the brown bag (non sandable) which is by far the strongest. Then paper tape, then all purpose straight from the bucket, no thinning, usually 2 coats, then prime and paint. Even though we don't have the freezing the high humidity is a problem. Of course almost all of them are textured with knockdown also.

Also your framing timbers will expand and contract with weather changes. This sounds like what may be happening. Also when you paint look into an elastomeric which will have a little give in it. A lot of them have stucco on the walls and the drywall is just on the ceilings.

Thanks for the feedback. Any recommendations on elastomeric paint?

I'm suspecting it's weather too. I called Fry Reglet today to see if they had any recommendations on post install reveals I could use. I have to send them pics tomorrow but am hopeful they'll come up with something. I also found a sort of V bead from Simpson that could work but it's vinyl so am always cynical about yellowing.

 

[griz]

You have a structural problem.

Quit trying to put lipstick on a pig to fix it.

Get a competent GC in there to evaluate the structure.

 

[ToolSeeker]

You have a structural problem.

Quit trying to put lipstick on a pig to fix it.

Get a competent GC in there to evaluate the structure.

If it was a structural problem seems it would be more than hairline cracks. And seasonal movement in framing is pretty common. In fact it sometimes causes problems inside of house.

 

[chrisn]

You have a structural problem.

Quit trying to put lipstick on a pig to fix it.

Get a competent GC in there to evaluate the structure.

Is there such a creature?